Homebrew PCBs

Hello Gary and Chris,

Sorry for this if should be a dummy question:

Did you you mean that NO intermediate scanning+ toner
printing is done before doing transfer from magazine
image ?

Hope your explanations as didn't fully understood it,
probably as never saw a Maplin printed catalogue.

Greets,

Samuel




Re: No Press N Peel, a Great alturnative 
Posted by: "lcdpublishing" lcdpublishing@...  
lcdpublishing 
Wed Jan 3, 2007 2:38 pm (PST) 
Gary,

I too have tried various catalogs and magazines -
often with good 
success. The only "Catch" I have experienced is when
the ink on the page transfers to the PCB along with
the toner. Turns out that the 
ink is also etch resistant which of course creates
some problems. 
Now if we could only convince the magazine and/or
catalog printers 
to leave some blank pages for us, that would be super
duper!

Chris



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All i meant was instead of using press n peel paper i use a sheet of paper from the maplin electronics catalogue. Its very thin and the toner does not stick to it after you have ironed it onto the board. it just peels off. No different to the way press n peel works.

still as with press n peel i still get problems. like today when i have tried to do a board three times now and always there is some little error that keeps bugging me.

I'm looking now for a better way to do these boards. press n peel method is hard work to get right. thinking of getting kitted out for UV now.

Gary

----- Original Message ----
From: teknochaman <teknochaman@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2007 8:34:37 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: No Press N Peel, a Great alternative

Hello Gary and Chris,

Sorry for this if should be a dummy question:

Did you you mean that NO intermediate scanning+ toner
printing is done before doing transfer from magazine
image ?

Hope your explanations as didn't fully understood it,
probably as never saw a Maplin printed catalogue.

Greets,

Samuel

Re: No Press N Peel, a Great alturnative 
Posted by: "lcdpublishing" lcdpublishing@ yahoo.com 
lcdpublishing 
Wed Jan 3, 2007 2:38 pm (PST) 
Gary,

I too have tried various catalogs and magazines -
often with good 
success. The only "Catch" I have experienced is when
the ink on the page transfers to the PCB along with
the toner. Turns out that the 
ink is also etch resistant which of course creates
some problems. 
Now if we could only convince the magazine and/or
catalog printers 
to leave some blank pages for us, that would be super
duper!

Chris

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
Correo Yahoo!
Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis! 
¡Abrí tu cuenta ya! - http://correo. yahoo.com. ar



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 02:36:47 +0100, Gary Hoyles <dimlow_uk@...>  
wrote:

> All i meant was instead of using press n peel paper i use a sheet of  
> paper from the maplin electronics catalogue. Its very thin and the toner  
> does not stick to it after you have ironed it onto the board. it just  
> peels off. No different to the way press n peel works.
> still as with press n peel i still get problems. like today when i have  
> tried to do a board three times now and always there is some little  
> error that keeps bugging me.
> I'm looking now for a better way to do these boards. press n peel method  
> is hard work to get right. thinking of getting kitted out for UV now.
> Gary


If you get almost good results with hand ironing you will get perfect  
results once you convert an old fuser or buy a laminator.

ST

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Gary Hoyles
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 1:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: No Press N Peel, a Great alternative


All i meant was instead of using press n peel paper i use a sheet of paper 
from the maplin electronics catalogue. Its very thin and the toner does not 
stick to it after you have ironed it onto the board. it just peels off. No 
different to the way press n peel works.

still as with press n peel i still get problems. like today when i have 
tried to do a board three times now and always there is some little error 
that keeps bugging me.

I'm looking now for a better way to do these boards. press n peel method is 
hard work to get right. thinking of getting kitted out for UV now.


--------------------------------------------------------------

I much prefer UV. It didn't cost me much to build a simple UV exposure 
unit - something like 25 GBP. It looks very crude but it does the job. I'll 
upload a photo of it, it'll give me a chance to use the Nikon D80 camera I 
gave myself for Christmas.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
Amateur radio call-sign G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
leon355@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

Hello Stefan and All,

I had think about a fuser but never imagined a how-to
as DIY project details.

Are you thinking in a fuser as it's carried by
laserprinters or copiers ?

Which is the average size for a laminator ?

BTW , does it exist any cheapo brand/link for this 
stuff ? 

Auf Wiedersehen und Greets,


Samuel






Re: No Press N Peel, a Great alternative 
Posted by: "Stefan Trethan" stefan_trethan@...  
stefan_trethan 
Sat Jan 6, 2007 12:43 am (PST) 
On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 02:36:47 +0100, Gary Hoyles
<dimlow_uk@yahoo. co.uk> 
wrote:

> All i meant was instead of using press n peel paper
i use a sheet of 
> paper from the maplin electronics catalogue. Its
very thin and the toner 
> does not stick to it after you have ironed it onto
the board. it just 
> peels off. No different to the way press n peel
works.
> still as with press n peel i still get problems.
like today when i have 
> tried to do a board three times now and always there
is some little 
> error that keeps bugging me.
> I'm looking now for a better way to do these boards.
press n peel method 
> is hard work to get right. thinking of getting
kitted out for UV now.
> Gary

If you get almost good results with hand ironing you
will get perfect 
results once you convert an old fuser or buy a
laminator.

ST

__________________________________________________
Correo Yahoo!
Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam \ufffdgratis! 
\ufffdAbr\ufffd tu cuenta ya! - http://correo.yahoo.com.ar

On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 02:13:48 +0100, teknochaman <teknochaman@...>  
wrote:

> Hello Stefan and All,
> I had think about a fuser but never imagined a how-to
> as DIY project details.
> Are you thinking in a fuser as it's carried by
> laserprinters or copiers ?
> Which is the average size for a laminator ?
> BTW , does it exist any cheapo brand/link for this
> stuff ?
> Auf Wiedersehen und Greets,
> Samuel


Yes, like in laserprinters and copiers. You need to add a motor (i  
recommend the ones normally used to rotate chickens on grill stakes, very  
cheap and the chickens will thank you if you don't eat them). But any  
geared motor will do (cheap battery screwdriver, RC serve etc.). You'll  
also need to add a simple temp. control circuit (The fuser already has a  
thermistor which you can use).

The advantage of a laminator is that it's ready made, but it may be too  
cool and will run too fast, so you need more than one pass through, or use  
another motor.

You might have to modify either so thicker material will pass, but the  
fuser i took from a copier was just fine in that regard.

In my experience (and many have said so) it makes all the difference  
compared to an iron.

ST

Yes, let me see the photo's

What puts me off doing it is all the chemicals. But first i will 
check out the laminator idea.

A question for anyone using a laminator. I see that most people that 
are using a laminator are using some sort of gloss inkjet paper and 
not press n peel, how good are the results with press n peel ?

Also what paper are the guys in the UK using, i have found that
 staples have a similar paper to the Basic injet gloss that i have
 seen in some us sites, is this the same paper ?

Gary

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon" <leon355@...> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Gary Hoyles
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 1:36 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: No Press N Peel, a Great
 alternative
> 
> 
> All i meant was instead of using press n peel paper i use a sheet
 of paper 
> from the maplin electronics catalogue. Its very thin and the toner
 does not 
> stick to it after you have ironed it onto the board. it just peels
 off. No 
> different to the way press n peel works.
> 
> still as with press n peel i still get problems. like today when i
 have 
> tried to do a board three times now and always there is some little
 error 
> that keeps bugging me.
> 
> I'm looking now for a better way to do these boards. press n peel
 method is 
> hard work to get right. thinking of getting kitted out for UV now.
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> I much prefer UV. It didn't cost me much to build a simple UV
 exposure 
> unit - something like 25 GBP. It looks very crude but it does the
 job. I'll 
> upload a photo of it, it'll give me a chance to use the Nikon D80
 camera I 

> gave myself for Christmas.
> 
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller
> Amateur radio call-sign G1HSM
> Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
> leon355@...
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
>

I'm guessing that the better results come from the higher temp you 
get in a laminator or the fuser ?

Gary

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 02:13:48 +0100, teknochaman <teknochaman@...>  
> wrote:
> 
> > Hello Stefan and All,
> > I had think about a fuser but never imagined a how-to
> > as DIY project details.
> > Are you thinking in a fuser as it's carried by
> > laserprinters or copiers ?
> > Which is the average size for a laminator ?
> > BTW , does it exist any cheapo brand/link for this
> > stuff ?
> > Auf Wiedersehen und Greets,
> > Samuel
> 
> 
> Yes, like in laserprinters and copiers. You need to add a motor (i  
> recommend the ones normally used to rotate chickens on grill 
stakes, very  
> cheap and the chickens will thank you if you don't eat them). But 
any  
> geared motor will do (cheap battery screwdriver, RC serve etc.). 
You'll  
> also need to add a simple temp. control circuit (The fuser already 
has a  
> thermistor which you can use).
> 
> The advantage of a laminator is that it's ready made, but it may be 
too  
> cool and will run too fast, so you need more than one pass through, 
or use  
> another motor.
> 
> You might have to modify either so thicker material will pass, but 
the  
> fuser i took from a copier was just fine in that regard.
> 
> In my experience (and many have said so) it makes all the 
difference  

> compared to an iron.
> 
> ST
>

"Gary Hoyles" <dimlow_uk@...> writes:
> I'm guessing that the better results come from the higher temp you 
> get in a laminator or the fuser ?

In my case, the iron was either too cool or too hot, with either too
much pressure or too little.  The laminator provided consistency.

On Tue, 09 Jan 2007 01:00:17 +0100, Gary Hoyles <dimlow_uk@...>  
wrote:

> I'm guessing that the better results come from the higher temp you
> get in a laminator or the fuser ?
> Gary


Also from the even pressure, and repeatability.

ST