Homebrew PCBs

I have been designing and building a few boards using Staples Photo 
paper (iron on patterns) and I am doing my own etching.

I have been trying to design my boards as single sided boards to avoid 
the problem of getting solder to flow from one side of the board to the 
other in double sided boards.  However, single sided boards pose a 
severe design limitation.

What is the best (read most fool proof) way for a neophyte PCB builder 
to get continuity through the holes on a double sided board?

Thanks,

Paul

On Tue, 2007-01-02 at 22:06 +0000, Paul Sturpe wrote:
> What is the best (read most fool proof) way for a neophyte PCB
> builder 
> to get continuity through the holes on a double sided board?

The best, cheapest and most reliable way I can think of is the obvious
method, needing no extra equipment or expense: stick wires through each
of your vias and solder them on each side. The main downside is the
addition of extra per-board labour.

Cheers
David

In a message dated 1/2/2007 7:15:28 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
sturpe@... writes:

What  is the best (read most fool proof) way for a neophyte PCB builder 
to get  continuity through the holes on a double sided board?


If a component-lead such as a resistor's are "naked" top and  bottom, simply 
solder that lead on both sides of the board.  If not  available on top, such 
as a rectangular-box capacitor, use jumper-lead wires, if  not TOO cumbersome.  
Or, if you simply MUST have a "plated-through hole,"  use tin-plated rivets 
or eyelets.  Be sure to sweat-solder the "head"  before you put a component 
over the top side of these!  Takes a bit of  experience to learn how to do right, 
but not TOO bad for prototypes ("one-off"  stuff, in UK).


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The upside is better current capability, have had plated holes burn through
on some analog boards.

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of David McNab
  Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 7:21 PM
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Through Hole Plating Alternative


  On Tue, 2007-01-02 at 22:06 +0000, Paul Sturpe wrote:
  > What is the best (read most fool proof) way for a neophyte PCB
  > builder
  > to get continuity through the holes on a double sided board?

  The best, cheapest and most reliable way I can think of is the obvious
  method, needing no extra equipment or expense: stick wires through each
  of your vias and solder them on each side. The main downside is the
  addition of extra per-board labour.

  Cheers
  David



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Sturpe" <sturpe@...> 
wrote:
>
> I have been designing and building a few boards using Staples Photo 
> paper (iron on patterns) and I am doing my own etching.
> 


As stated before, a piece of wire, component leg (resistor, cap, ic) 
is the simplest way to do it. However if for whatever reason you 
REALLY want to do it the HARD way you can use SMALL solder wick such 
as KESTER 0.025" wide. This is actually a braded tube, which is 
flattened. Using a sewing needle or small drill bit open the braid 
back into a tube and saturate the tube with solder. You might want to 
put the tube of braid on a piece of  `mechanical pencil lead'  that 
solder will not stick to. Cut to length with a razor blade 
perpendicular to the tube support (sewing needle, drill bit). You'll 
have to drill your `Via' hole considerably larger and ensure you have 
large enough pads for it. 

This is the REAL pain in the neck way to get it done.

Hi,

http://www.lpkfusa.com/RapidPCB/ThroughHolePlating/proconduct.htm

I think none of you are aware of this product.
I have a board which is through hole plated using 
this product. There is no fault in any via.

After melted once in oven only at 160C, it will no
more
melt any further during soldering. It becomes like
ceramic.

According to a person in Turkey which uses this 
product (the same person who sent me the board) says;

"You can through hole plate 0.4 mm holes with an
ordinary FR4 with 1.6 mm thickness. You can 
through hole plate 0.2 mm holes if you use 0.8 mm 
thickness board. Because aspect ratio is 1/4"

It worth to give a try. I will inform you later,

Dr.



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Bora Dikmen wrote:

> http://www.lpkfusa.com/RapidPCB/ThroughHolePlating/proconduct.htm
> <http://www.lpkfusa.com/RapidPCB/ThroughHolePlating/proconduct.htm>

Sounds interesting; I tried squeegeeing, drying and copper-plating
graphite paste, but with little success.

Scott