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OT: molded plastic enclosures

OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-01 by David McNab

Hi,

Problem with enclosures - I find the enclosures I want, but they turn
out to be unavailable here in NZ.

Plenty overseas, but at the price of inflated handling/shipping charges,
which for small quantities blows the price out hard.

This makes me wonder about taking a DIY approach.

Not wanting metal, or folded plastic etc. Needing a process which can
produce reasonably attractive plastic cases.

Has anyone had success in this field?

If so, can you point me to any good sites for learning?

I'm thinking of starting with perspex (called 'pexiglass' in some areas
I believe).

Cheers
David

Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-02 by Steve

Plexiglass is terrible to work with, as it's very brittle when
cutting, and it has a very narrow temp range between soft enough to
bend or vacuform and too hot. It gets bubbles easily when it gets too hot.

Polystyrene or styrene is much easier to work with. Cutting, bending,
vacuforming, etc. Takes paint better, too.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/nwpropmasters
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casting

Make sure to check the links here and in those groups.

Steve Greenfield

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, David McNab <rebirth@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi,
> 
> Problem with enclosures - I find the enclosures I want, but they turn
> out to be unavailable here in NZ.
> 
> Plenty overseas, but at the price of inflated handling/shipping charges,
> which for small quantities blows the price out hard.
> 
> This makes me wonder about taking a DIY approach.
> 
> Not wanting metal, or folded plastic etc. Needing a process which can
> produce reasonably attractive plastic cases.
> 
> Has anyone had success in this field?
> 
> If so, can you point me to any good sites for learning?
> 
> I'm thinking of starting with perspex (called 'pexiglass' in some areas
> I believe).
> 
> Cheers
> David
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-02 by Stefan Trethan

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 05:55:56 +0100, Steve <alienrelics@...> wrote:

> Plexiglass is terrible to work with, as it's very brittle when
> cutting, and it has a very narrow temp range between soft enough to
> bend or vacuform and too hot. It gets bubbles easily when it gets too  
> hot.
> Polystyrene or styrene is much easier to work with. Cutting, bending,
> vacuforming, etc. Takes paint better, too.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/nwpropmasters
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casting
> Make sure to check the links here and in those groups.
> Steve Greenfield


I agree, but i think it will still be very tricky to make good looking  
enclosures. They are usually injection molded, which is probably  
unreasonable to attempt. I don't think vacuum forming will yield boxes  
sturdy enough (limits on material thickness).

ST

Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-02 by derekhawkins

>Plexiglass is terrible to work with, as it's very brittle when
>cutting

Score then snap like drywall. Easy...You can get the scoring tools to 
buy.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@...> wrote:
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-02 by Herbert E. Plett

--- Steve <alienrelics@...> wrote:

> .. It gets bubbles easily when it gets too hot.

that comes from moisture. same as polycarbonate needs to be carefully dried
before softening! very hard to do in a DIY home environment.
polyethylene and polypropylene don't have this problem, but these are not
gluable, they must be soldered. neither are these paintable.
the ideal stuff is ABS (also needs drying in extreme cases). PVC is also a good
candidate, and antiflame too.

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Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-02 by twb8899

I use vacuum formed parts in my product line. The plastic parts are
made from .040" or .060" high impact polystyrene and .060" and .125"
ABS. My vacuum forming machines are made by Diacro and Q-Vac. I
purchase the materials as I need them so the moisture usually isn't a
problem. The Diacro machine is smaller but I have formed .125" ABS
parts 6" deep with this machine. My molds are made from hardwood and
sometimes I solder pieces of circuit board laminate together to make
the shape needed. Most of the molds I use are positive molds but I
almost always use negative (cavity) molds for the deep parts. 

There are many homebrew designs for vacuum forming machines floating
around and they all work to some degree. The machines that work the
best are the ones with the best vacuum pumps. Using a shop vacuum will
work but they will not always form corners and crevices properly. If
you build your own machine get a rotary vane Gast vacuum pump as they
seem to work good for vacuum forming. I see them on ebay all the time.

Tom

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, David McNab <rebirth@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi,
> 
> Problem with enclosures - I find the enclosures I want, but they turn
> out to be unavailable here in NZ.
> 
> Plenty overseas, but at the price of inflated handling/shipping charges,
> which for small quantities blows the price out hard.
> 
> This makes me wonder about taking a DIY approach.
> 
> Not wanting metal, or folded plastic etc. Needing a process which can
> produce reasonably attractive plastic cases.
> 
> Has anyone had success in this field?
> 
> If so, can you point me to any good sites for learning?
> 
> I'm thinking of starting with perspex (called 'pexiglass' in some areas
> I believe).
> 
> Cheers
> David
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-02 by Stefan Trethan

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 18:12:50 +0100, twb8899 <twb8899@...> wrote:

> I use vacuum formed parts in my product line. The plastic parts are
> made from .040" or .060" high impact polystyrene and .060" and .125"
> ABS. My vacuum forming machines are made by Diacro and Q-Vac. I
> purchase the materials as I need them so the moisture usually isn't a
> problem. The Diacro machine is smaller but I have formed .125" ABS
> parts 6" deep with this machine. My molds are made from hardwood and
> sometimes I solder pieces of circuit board laminate together to make
> the shape needed. Most of the molds I use are positive molds but I
> almost always use negative (cavity) molds for the deep parts.


I did not know plastic that thick can still be vacuum formed, good to know!

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-03 by William Carr

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 18:12:50 +0100, twb8899 <twb8899@...> wrote:

>> The Diacro machine is smaller but I have formed .125" ABS
>> parts 6" deep with this machine. My molds are made from hardwood and
>> sometimes I solder pieces of circuit board laminate together to make
>> the shape needed. Most of the molds I use are positive molds but I
>> almost always use negative (cavity) molds for the deep parts.
>
>
> I did not know plastic that thick can still be vacuum formed, good  
> to know!
>
> ST


I used to work at a plastics company making their vacuum boxes for  
mold forming.   Got pretty good at it if I do say so myself.




The trick with getting a deep mold to work is using what they called  
a "clip" box, an upper vacuum chamber box with lexan viewing ports on  
the sides.

You heat the plastic sheet, typically no more than 1/4 inch thick,   
turn on the vacuum to the upper box and watch as it makes the soft  
plastic balloon up.   Then you flip the vacuum to the mold and the  
plastic collapses down and forms to the mold, which has lots of 1/64  
inch vacuum holes drilled in it.

If you don't use this technique to stretch the plastic first, the  
thickness of the finished part will be uneven over a deep mold.     
You could have breakthroughs or weak spots.


I did some of the mold work too.   Gosh, I love that Butcher's Wax.    
We had it in sheets 1/4 inch thick and you could build forms out of  
it for casting or fiberglassing.


Speaking of enclosure design, if you have a sign supply company  
nearby, they have Celtec boards.   It's something like a foamed  
plastic, very useful.


I've assembled stuff out of Celtec with Gorilla glue and screws.   As  
I recall, you can bend it by applying a little heat.   A friend  
loaned me a "hot strip" a while back.

You just clamp it to the plastic, plug it in, and when it's time to  
bend it, Celtec will pretty much bend on the that line.    I used it  
to whip up some brackets for holding household water filters, it was  
fun.


Corian, the countertop stuff, has some real potential too.






















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-03 by twb8899

Stefan,

The .125" thick ABS vacuum forms without much trouble. Thicker
plastics will also work but it starts getting difficult. Thicker
sheets may need top and bottom heaters and a very powerful vacuum
pump. I've seen .250" ABS vacuum formed at a fabricators plant. It was
a 48" x 96" sheet. The machine was huge and so was their electric
bill!!  I'll stay with the thinner materials...  lol

Tom



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 18:12:50 +0100, twb8899 <twb8899@...> wrote:
> 
> > I use vacuum formed parts in my product line. The plastic parts are
> > made from .040" or .060" high impact polystyrene and .060" and .125"
> > ABS. My vacuum forming machines are made by Diacro and Q-Vac. I
> > purchase the materials as I need them so the moisture usually isn't a
> > problem. The Diacro machine is smaller but I have formed .125" ABS
> > parts 6" deep with this machine. My molds are made from hardwood and
> > sometimes I solder pieces of circuit board laminate together to make
> > the shape needed. Most of the molds I use are positive molds but I
> > almost always use negative (cavity) molds for the deep parts.
> 
> 
> I did not know plastic that thick can still be vacuum formed, good
to know!
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> ST
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures

2007-01-03 by Dave King

I form 060-090 and 125 Arcylic parts using a toaster oven
and a shop vac. It's not hard to do at all. These aren't
quite 48x96 sized parts but as you get bigger its more to
do with the amount of vacuum you can pull. Also depends
on the shape and detail of the part you want to make.

You don't always need to do vacuum molding if you have
simple but larger parts. You can manually pull the hot 
acrylic over the mold or used diffused compressed air.
The biggest thing I have seen being molded without vacuum
forming was a canopy for an 2 seat airplane. It used a full sheet
of 250 arcylic. The guy came up with a pretty clever way 
of doing it too. He built a male mold using steel and a
layer of concrete about 1 inch thick. The concrete being
the outer layer with a smooth finish etc. The steel was
just for support to get it off the ground. They then heated
the concrete from the bottom side with a propane tiger torch.
When the concete was evenly heated they just waited until 
it was at the right temp, and simply laid the sheet on top
and walked away. The hot concrete would slowly heat the 
sheet and gravity did the rest. This sounds crude but the
result is optically perfect parts.

Dave
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of twb8899
Sent: January 3, 2007 8:06 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: OT: molded plastic enclosures


Stefan,

The .125" thick ABS vacuum forms without much trouble. Thicker
plastics will also work but it starts getting difficult. Thicker
sheets may need top and bottom heaters and a very powerful vacuum
pump. I've seen .250" ABS vacuum formed at a fabricators plant. It was
a 48" x 96" sheet. The machine was huge and so was their electric
bill!!  I'll stay with the thinner materials...  lol

Tom



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 18:12:50 +0100, twb8899 <twb8899@...> wrote:
> 
> > I use vacuum formed parts in my product line. The plastic parts are
> > made from .040" or .060" high impact polystyrene and .060" and .125"
> > ABS. My vacuum forming machines are made by Diacro and Q-Vac. I
> > purchase the materials as I need them so the moisture usually isn't a
> > problem. The Diacro machine is smaller but I have formed .125" ABS
> > parts 6" deep with this machine. My molds are made from hardwood and
> > sometimes I solder pieces of circuit board laminate together to make
> > the shape needed. Most of the molds I use are positive molds but I
> > almost always use negative (cavity) molds for the deep parts.
> 
> 
> I did not know plastic that thick can still be vacuum formed, good
to know!
> 
> ST
>




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