Homebrew_PCBs

> This is basically just an FYI post, I know it reads like an
> advertisement but I have NO connection with the company except being
> a happy customer.
>
> If you are one of those people who use Photosensitive boards to
> produce your PCBs, and you are using the 3M, Epson or other Inkjet
> Transparency media to make films, (positive / negative).
> You may want to take a look at this
> ( http://screenprinters.net/product_group.php?gid=inkjetfilm ).
>
> I have used this material with an old Epson Stylus 1160 and obtained
> what I consider to be exceptional results compared to the other films
> I have tried (also used with Stylus 660, results were not as good but
> were useable). Unlike other films I have used which have a coating to
> provide a tooth for the ink to bind to but take quite some time for
> the ink to dry and allow for ink "pooling" causing non uniformity in
> coverage, the coating on the film (above link) absorbs the ink almost
> immediately. The coating acts as if it is some sort of gelatin which
> soaks in the ink as it is laid onto the material.

----- Original Message -----
From: "scratch_6057" <dml.empsrch@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Inkjet Transparency Material


> This is basically just an FYI post, I know it reads like an
> advertisement but I have NO connection with the company except being
> a happy customer.
>
> If you are one of those people who use Photosensitive boards to
> produce your PCBs, and you are using the 3M, Epson or other Inkjet
> Transparency media to make films, (positive / negative).
> You may want to take a look at this
> ( http://screenprinters.net/product_group.php?gid=inkjetfilm ).
>
> I have used this material with an old Epson Stylus 1160 and obtained
> what I consider to be exceptional results compared to the other films
> I have tried (also used with Stylus 660, results were not as good but
> were useable). Unlike other films I have used which have a coating to
> provide a tooth for the ink to bind to but take quite some time for
> the ink to dry and allow for ink "pooling" causing non uniformity in
> coverage, the coating on the film (above link) absorbs the ink almost
> immediately. The coating acts as if it is some sort of gelatin which
> soaks in the ink as it is laid onto the material.
>
> My printer settings have been, Highest Density, Glossy Photo Paper,
> High Speed = OFF, & whatever else I would normally use for a FINAL
> Photo Quality Print.

I get superb transparencies with Mega Electronics Jetstar Premium film in an
HP 5940 printer.

Leon

> This is basically just an FYI post, I know it reads
> like an
> advertisement but I have NO connection with the
> company except being
> a happy customer.
>
> If you are one of those people who use
> Photosensitive boards to
> produce your PCBs, and you are using the 3M, Epson
> or other Inkjet
> Transparency media to make films, (positive /
> negative).
> You may want to take a look at this
> (
>

> ).
>
> I have used this material with an old Epson Stylus
> 1160 and obtained
> what I consider to be exceptional results compared
> to the other films
> I have tried (also used with Stylus 660, results
> were not as good but
> were useable). Unlike other films I have used which
> have a coating to
> provide a tooth for the ink to bind to but take
> quite some time for
> the ink to dry and allow for ink "pooling" causing
> non uniformity in
> coverage, the coating on the film (above link)
> absorbs the ink almost
> immediately. The coating acts as if it is some sort
> of gelatin which
> soaks in the ink as it is laid onto the material.
>
> My printer settings have been, Highest Density,
> Glossy Photo Paper,
> High Speed = OFF, & whatever else I would normally
> use for a FINAL
> Photo Quality Print.
>
>
>
>
>
>

>The coating acts as if it is some sort of gelatin which
>soaks in the ink as it is laid onto the material.

> Is this the non-waterproof film?

>The gelatin coated stuff is what the genuine Epson inkjet film was

>The HP, canon, and others all used that cruddy sand-paper film.

>Been doing this easy stuff for 5+ years.

>As I understood, you print on this film with black ink
>and then pose with UV. So there is no need to buy
>waterproof version?

>Did you use dry film, and laminate the PCB?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bora Dikmen" <bora_dikmen@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 6:58 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Inkjet Transparency Material


> >Did you use dry film, and laminate the PCB?
>
> "At this point, I'm using the more expensive pre
> coated board material, the main reason being ease of
> access, (3 retail suppliers in my area)."
>
> What is the minimum reliable trace width with these
> pre-coated board material? 6 mils possible?

I can get 5 mils for text, but I'm not sure how reliable it is for tracks.
I've tried two short test tracks between 0.1" IC pads, and they were OK.
High-res resist is available for the pre-coated boards I use, and might be
better.

Leon

>What is the minimum reliable trace width with these
> pre-coated board material? 6 mils possible?

>What is the minimum reliable trace width with these
>pre-coated board material? 6 mils possible?

----- Original Message -----

>I actually use a laserjet to do mine, I had problems with over
>exposure on the inkjets because they apprently let some light thru.

----- Original Message -----
From: "derekhawkins" <eldata@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Inkjet Transparency Material


> >I actually use a laserjet to do mine, I had problems with over
>>exposure on the inkjets because they apprently let some light thru.
>
> Typically, it's the laserjet that suffers from opacity issues and
> pinholes when using transparencies.

That's what I've found, as well. My inkjet transparencies are much denser
than I get with a laser printer.

Leon

> Hello!
>
> I am following this nice group for a while. This is my first post.
>
> I've got old X/Y coordinate table which used to be simple pick and place
> machine. There's no Z axis and mechanics is not strong enough for
> holding any machine with drill or mill tools. One crazy idea crossed my
> mind... what if I put one UV light source to this machine and plot with
> UV light directly to photoresist coated FR4? I can make small optical
> mask with (e.g.) 10 mils aperture, which floats on thin air blowing
> beneath the mask. It could act as single (fixed) aperture photoplotter
> for direct exposure of PCB photoresist.... Is this kind of stupid idea?
> Anyone had experience with that? Would be UV LED enough? Exposure time
> is critical here, but I am talking about PCB prototyping.

----- Original Message -----

> > Hello!
> >
> > I am following this nice group for a while. This is my first post.
> >
> > I've got old X/Y coordinate table which used to be simple pick and
> > place machine. There's no Z axis and mechanics is not strong enough
> > for holding any machine with drill or mill tools. One crazy idea
> > crossed my mind... what if I put one UV light source to
> this machine
> > and plot with UV light directly to photoresist coated FR4?
> I can make
> > small optical mask with (e.g.) 10 mils aperture, which
> floats on thin
> > air blowing beneath the mask. It could act as single
> (fixed) aperture
> > photoplotter for direct exposure of PCB photoresist.... Is
> this kind of stupid idea?
> > Anyone had experience with that? Would be UV LED enough? Exposure
> > time is critical here, but I am talking about PCB prototyping.
>
> The field of homebreweing PCBs is full of nutty ideas, some
> of which work.
> I'd call this nutty, but definitely not stupid. It's worth
> some investigation to see if it's feasable.

>
> I actually use a laserjet to do mine, I had problems with over

----- Original Message -----

>I have the old HP6 and I have had much better luck than using my
>Cannon Inkjet. Maybe it's the inks, but I have had no trouble with
>using the old HP.

----- Original Message -----

>
> This is basically just an FYI post, I know it reads like an
> advertisement but I have NO connection with the company except

> a happy customer.
>
> If you are one of those people who use Photosensitive boards to
> produce your PCBs, and you are using the 3M, Epson or other Inkjet
> Transparency media to make films, (positive / negative).
> You may want to take a look at this
> ( http://screenprinters.net/product_group.php?gid=inkjetfilm ).
>
> I have used this material with an old Epson Stylus 1160 and obtained
> what I consider to be exceptional results compared to the other

> I have tried (also used with Stylus 660, results were not as good

> were useable). Unlike other films I have used which have a coating

> provide a tooth for the ink to bind to but take quite some time for
> the ink to dry and allow for ink "pooling" causing non uniformity in
> coverage, the coating on the film (above link) absorbs the ink

>
> For what it's worth, recently got some of the inkjet film

> below but it fared no better than the Office Depots and Apollos
> tried. Maybe it was old stock or something.
>
> Whatever, called Screen Printers and informed them that I would

> to return it, whereupon and to their credit (hopefully mine too
> eventually), they gave me return instructions and no questions