Homebrew PCBs

> Hi,
> 
> I've been using this product to make my PCBs until now and having
> excellent results.  Unfortunately, the concept of "new & improved" seems
> to be spreading to other companies besides Yahoo.  Pulsar has switched
> from the white paper-like sheet to something more like photo paper; it is
> thicker and more opaque.
> 
> My 1st sheet got jammed in the printer (1st paper jam ever on this unit)
> and alignment of double-sided PCBs is harder.  My ordinary fluorescent
> lamp used to be plenty to align the old white version but is now just
> barely ok for this new blue version.  I did not notice any improvement
> during the transfer process and the Pulsar greenTRF paper did not stick
> better to the toner either (I think I'm not cleaning the residue from the
> paper completely before this step, need more practice).
> 
> Personally I consider this a step back and really hope they would
> reconsider and keep the older version available.  I'm going to write to
> them and report back what they have to say.
> 
> Robert
> :)
> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Robert, I found that the "New and Improved" stuff is horrid by 
comparison to the original.  I went through two packages before 
getting a good transfer.  I emailed back and forth with the fellow 
at Pulsar and also asked for replacement material.  At that point, 
the person stopped communicating with me.  As far as I am concerned, 
I won't buy anything else with their name on it.  

I am not a happy camper with regard to their products





--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan 
<robert.hedan@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> > 
> > I've been using this product to make my PCBs until now and having
> > excellent results.  Unfortunately, the concept of "new & 
improved" seems
> > to be spreading to other companies besides Yahoo.  Pulsar has 
switched
> > from the white paper-like sheet to something more like photo 
paper; it is
> > thicker and more opaque.
> > 
> > My 1st sheet got jammed in the printer (1st paper jam ever on 
this unit)
> > and alignment of double-sided PCBs is harder.  My ordinary 
fluorescent
> > lamp used to be plenty to align the old white version but is now 
just
> > barely ok for this new blue version.  I did not notice any 
improvement
> > during the transfer process and the Pulsar greenTRF paper did 
not stick
> > better to the toner either (I think I'm not cleaning the residue 
from the
> > paper completely before this step, need more practice).
> > 
> > Personally I consider this a step back and really hope they would
> > reconsider and keep the older version available.  I'm going to 
write to

> > them and report back what they have to say.
> > 
> > Robert
> > :)
> > 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de lcdpublishing
> Envoyé : juin 13 2006 13:53
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Note to Pulsar paper users
> 
> 
> Hi Robert, I found that the "New and Improved" stuff is horrid by 
> comparison to the original.  I went through two packages before 
> getting a good transfer.  I emailed back and forth with the fellow 
> at Pulsar and also asked for replacement material.  At that point, 
> the person stopped communicating with me.  As far as I am concerned, 
> I won't buy anything else with their name on it.  
> 
> I am not a happy camper with regard to their products


Yup, confirmed.

It now takes a complete sheet to make a double-sided PCB; 1/2 sheet per
side.  I used to be able to cut to exact size and "piggy-back" the older
white sheet onto ordinary paper.  I can't do that any more, it jams, I'm
forced to pass the new blue sheet alone.  And I can't cut it down to
narrower strips 'cause my printer needs a minimum length of paper to bridge
between the sets of drive rollers.

The increase in thickness also means standard PCB is now out of the question
through the laminator.  I also had 2 incomplete transfers out of 3, with
problems at all stages of the process.  I'm very disappointed with this new
& improved stuff also.  Time and costs have gone up, inconsistent results as
well as new problems throughout the process.

The direct-printing process has just taken a new priority on my TO DO list.
I was quite happy using the Pulsar material but this is ridiculous.

Robert
:(

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Robert Hedan
> Envoyé : juin 13 2006 14:31
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Note to Pulsar paper users
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, confirmed.
> 
> bla bla bla
> 
> Robert
> :(


I got an answer from Frank over at Pulsar, a very thorough and helpful
reply.  The old white paper was dimensionally unstable.  This problem is not
apparent when using through-hole, but it becomes a serious issue when using
FPGA.

I had a suspicion that this was the reason 'cause I had noticed an aligment
problem when I printed a 40-pin header a while ago.  I got around that
problem by sticking to PCBs no larger than 6" and using multiple headers,
but I can see how some users could have been frustrated.

Frank gave me an idea to save on paper;  print on ordinary paper first, cut
out a window and then scotch tape the new paper inside the opening.  I'm not
sure how that will go through the fuser though, scotch tape melts.  I'll
have to get shipping labels at Staples and give it a try.

Is the fuser on a HP LJ 2100 single sided?  I would assume it is placed on
the toner side of the paper for maximum efficiency since this printer does
not have a double-sided feature.  That would mean I could place scotch tape
on the back side without danger, but I'd prefer if one of you guys would
test the theory and scrap his printer instead of me.  :D

Frank says the new paper should not affect the performance of the greenTRF.
I redid the 2 boards that crapped out and they both came out nicely, so I
don't know what went wrong there.

Robert
:)

Robert Hedan wrote:
> Frank gave me an idea to save on paper;  print on ordinary paper first, cut
> out a window and then scotch tape the new paper inside the opening.  I'm not
> sure how that will go through the fuser though, scotch tape melts.  I'll
> have to get shipping labels at Staples and give it a try.
>
> Is the fuser on a HP LJ 2100 single sided?  I would assume it is placed on
> the toner side of the paper for maximum efficiency since this printer does
> not have a double-sided feature.  That would mean I could place scotch tape
> on the back side without danger, but I'd prefer if one of you guys would
> test the theory and scrap his printer instead of me.  :D
>   

I tried it on the laser printers at work :)

I had no problem with the tape melting.  I've also run 3M post-it sticky 
notes through when I want post-its with nice graphics :)

Only time I've had tape start to melt is when it goes through the 
pressure cooker at about 220F.

Dave K

Robert Hedan(robert.hedan@...) is reported to have said:
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Robert Hedan
> > Envoy\ufffd : juin 13 2006 14:31
> > \ufffd : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Note to Pulsar paper users
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Yup, confirmed.
> > 
> > bla bla bla
> > 
> > Robert
> > :(
> 
> 
> I got an answer from Frank over at Pulsar, a very thorough and helpful
> reply.  The old white paper was dimensionally unstable.  This problem is not
> apparent when using through-hole, but it becomes a serious issue when using
> FPGA.
> 
> I had a suspicion that this was the reason 'cause I had noticed an aligment
> problem when I printed a 40-pin header a while ago.  I got around that
> problem by sticking to PCBs no larger than 6" and using multiple headers,
> but I can see how some users could have been frustrated.
> 
> Frank gave me an idea to save on paper;  print on ordinary paper first, cut
> out a window and then scotch tape the new paper inside the opening.  I'm not
> sure how that will go through the fuser though, scotch tape melts.  I'll
> have to get shipping labels at Staples and give it a try.

Avery labels don't melt as they are designed for Laser Printing.
> 

Wanye

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Codesuidae
> Envoyé : juin 13 2006 19:00
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Note to Pulsar paper users
> 
> 
> 
> I tried it on the laser printers at work :)
....
> 
> Dave K


I couldn't wait, I tried it and it works.  :)  I just did the silkscreen on
a PCB and things went well, no more waste of Pulsar paper.

So here I am, getting a good chuckle out of Stefan with his static bug and
how he forgot to wire the master reset pin properly.   :D   And then I had
this nagging feeling something was wrong with my own design.  I've gone for
a totally modular design and moved switches and LEDs to a separate PCB,
including MCLR.

Sure enough, I wired the master clear BACKWARDS.  My mcu was only going to
work when I pressed and held reset.  D'UH!   Of course I just etched the PCB
a few hours ago so I had to make a few snips across some traces, gonna add
jumpers tomorrow when I assemble it.

Man, I can just imagine myself trying to debug this bug later.

Robert
:)