Yes, i was going to answer that, started with it but never finished, so
far ;-)
Anyway, now is as good a time as any.
Ok, summing up..
We know the CX4200 works (Volkan). We know the C84 works (me).
We know the stylus color 600 doesn't work, because i tried it.
CX4200:
Monochrome head 90 nozzles, Color head 90 nozzles x 3 (CMY)
Variable Droplet Size: Six sizes as small as 3 picoliters
Up to 5760 x 1440 optimized dpi
Ink Type DURABrite® Ultra Inks
C84:
Monochrome head 180 nozzles,
Color head 59 nozzles x 3 (CMY)
Minimum Ink Droplet Size Variable Six sizes as small as 3 picoliters
Up to 5760 x 1440 optimized dpi
Ink Type DURABrite® Inks
Stylus color 600:
64 black nozzles, 32 per color.
1440x720 resolution.
does not work
The problem with the 600 was that there were individual lines printed, not
close enough together to form a closed surface.
I think the higher resolution/number of nozzles solves that in the newer
printers. Variable droplet size may be a factor too.
All the working printers used durabright ink, but i do not really think
this is a factor since all printers will take the mispro ink.
So IMO really any of the newer printers will work, maybe any that have
1440 dpi in y direction since that was where the gaps occured.
The ink i tried is MISPRO ink from inksupply.com. I only have yellow and
black, but i would agree yellow seems much better than black as a resist.
Mixing other mispro colors into yellow does not seem damaging, but i had
pelikan brand aftermarket ink in the blue cart and it would bead up on the
copper when mixed with yellow mispro (in the black head). I had injected
some distilled water into this blue cartridge (to refill) so maybe the ink
itself would not have had such a negative effect.
The ink must be cured. More research must be put into that (but nobody
seems to have volunteered to build that SMD/curing oven, or even make one
too and copy me the software, so...). So far i only put the PCB on the
electridc stove plate switched it on and waited for the ink to turn
slightly brownish. With a oven it will be easier to try different
temperatures and also it will be practical for 2-sided boards.
Anyway, i have not yet scanned the test PCB, it is a 1cm wide strip
reading @@@Homebrew_PCBs@@@ in a very small font. It isn't 100%perfect but
it's worlds better than the first toner transfer PCB i did. In one spot it
came out perfect, towards the end it shows some error but it think this is
where the small strip left the feed roller and was propelled forward. Also
the pizza wheels were still in but apparently didn't do much harm. I
bought USB extensions instead of USB cables so i'll have to move stuff
around to get that scanner up and running again. One would really need
larger boards to test and tweak this fully.
I've done some more work on the printer so that i can get larger boards
through, but i'd really like to raise the head also.
ST
On Thu, 01 Jun 2006 21:02:24 +0200, kilocycles <
kilocycles@...>
wrote:
> Stefan,
> Please go back and take a look at my previous request in Message #
> 14557. I was in the hospital for awhile, and then had surgery a
> couple of weeks ago, and I've missed the details on exactly which
> Epson models are good for direct print, and which after-market ink you
> used (same as Volkan's?).
> I'd really appreciate it!
> Thanks,
> Ted
