Homebrew PCBs

Hello out there!

  I've been experimenting with an old skillet in an effort to develop a 
safe homebrew reflow profile.

  To test my reflow profile, I've been cooking scrap pieces of PCB with 
a small quantity of old RS electronics solder paste on the board to 
check that the solder melts etc.  The paste is best before wk 50, 2003.

  During these reflows, I heat the board to 225C max.  I have noticed 
that the paste forms a crust on the board, which can be wiped off (as 
per Stefans  suggestion)  but am concerned about the crust with respect 
to its affect on component joints.
 
  Does this crust form on in date paste on component joints??

  Thanks for your help

  Trev

On Thu, 25 May 2006 11:30:00 +0200, Trevor Matthews  
<trev.matthews@ozemail.com.au> wrote:

>  To test my reflow profile, I've been cooking scrap pieces of PCB with
> a small quantity of old RS electronics solder paste on the board to
> check that the solder melts etc.  The paste is best before wk 50, 2003.
>  During these reflows, I heat the board to 225C max.  I have noticed
> that the paste forms a crust on the board, which can be wiped off (as
> per Stefans  suggestion)  but am concerned about the crust with respect
> to its affect on component joints.
>  Does this crust form on in date paste on component joints??
>  Thanks for your help
>  Trev


Ok, this crust must be different from the one i described when using  
plumbing paste for tinning.
Does it seem to contain tin particles or is it flux?
Will it reflow fully if you crank up the temperature a bit more (maybe try  
with soldering iron if the skillet doesn't go higher).

I also use old SMD paste, it seems less tacky and harder to apply, but it  
doesn't form a crust. I don't really think the old age is the problem.

Not sure.. but my gut feeling tells me your might have too low temperature.

Thanks for posting on list, i'm sure you'll see the benefit of other  
people respondingn soon.


ST

Stefan Trethan wrote:

>On Thu, 25 May 2006 11:30:00 +0200, Trevor Matthews  
><trev.matthews@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
>> To test my reflow profile, I've been cooking scrap pieces of PCB with
>>a small quantity of old RS electronics solder paste on the board to
>>check that the solder melts etc.  The paste is best before wk 50, 2003.
>> During these reflows, I heat the board to 225C max.  I have noticed
>>that the paste forms a crust on the board, which can be wiped off (as
>>per Stefans  suggestion)  but am concerned about the crust with respect
>>to its affect on component joints.
>> Does this crust form on in date paste on component joints??
>> Thanks for your help
>> Trev
>>    
>>
>
>
>Ok, this crust must be different from the one i described when using  
>plumbing paste for tinning.
>Does it seem to contain tin particles or is it flux?
>Will it reflow fully if you crank up the temperature a bit more (maybe try  
>with soldering iron if the skillet doesn't go higher).
>
>I also use old SMD paste, it seems less tacky and harder to apply, but it  
>doesn't form a crust. I don't really think the old age is the problem.
>
>Not sure.. but my gut feeling tells me your might have too low temperature.
>  
>
My next attempt with scrap was going to let the skillet go higher and 
see what happens, but I've tried to melt it with my soldering iron -  I 
can move it about and see bright tin underneath, but it doesn't change 
the consistancy of the crust at all.  I thought I might try to reflow 
the paste with just my soldering iron and see what happens then as well.

  Unfortunately, I can't run my skillet much higher than 180C without 
leaving the lid on, which means I can't see what happens to the paste as 
it melts, so I can't check to see if the crust is there straight away, 
or if it forms over time (as it would if it melts, then oxidises as 
temperature rises and as time increases)

thanks for your help

Trev


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Fri, 26 May 2006 03:06:21 +0200, Trevor Matthews  
<trev.matthews@ozemail.com.au> wrote:

> My next attempt with scrap was going to let the skillet go higher and
> see what happens, but I've tried to melt it with my soldering iron -  I
> can move it about and see bright tin underneath, but it doesn't change
> the consistancy of the crust at all.  I thought I might try to reflow
> the paste with just my soldering iron and see what happens then as well.
>  Unfortunately, I can't run my skillet much higher than 180C without
> leaving the lid on, which means I can't see what happens to the paste as
> it melts, so I can't check to see if the crust is there straight away,
> or if it forms over time (as it would if it melts, then oxidises as
> temperature rises and as time increases)
> thanks for your help
> Trev


OK, if the crust does not melt/reflow when heated with an iron directly,  
at normal soldering temperatures, i'm pretts sure something is wrong with  
the paste.
I can assure you "working" SMD paste does not form a crust, it will reflow  
with a shiny surface and some flux residue.

ST

On Fri, 26 May 2006 03:06:21 +0200, Trevor Matthews

><trev.matthews@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>My next attempt with scrap was going to let the skillet go higher and
>>see what happens, but I've tried to melt it with my soldering iron -  I
>>can move it about and see bright tin underneath, but it doesn't change
>>the consistancy of the crust at all.  I thought I might try to reflow
>>the paste with just my soldering iron and see what happens then as well.
>> Unfortunately, I can't run my skillet much higher than 180C without
>>leaving the lid on, which means I can't see what happens to the paste as
>>it melts, so I can't check to see if the crust is there straight away,
>>or if it forms over time (as it would if it melts, then oxidises as
>>temperature rises and as time increases)
>>thanks for your help
>>Trev
>>    
>>
>
>
>OK, if the crust does not melt/reflow when heated with an iron directly,  
>at normal soldering temperatures, i'm pretts sure something is wrong with  
>the paste.
>I can assure you "working" SMD paste does not form a crust, it will reflow  
>with a shiny surface and some flux residue.
>
>ST
>  
>
I've tried a couple of things and here are my results:
    1) I placed a couple of blobs of paste on my scrap PCB and melted 
them with my soldering iron - success, the flux burnt off, and nice 
shiny paste.  Even the paste I did not heat directly did the right thing.

    2)  Heated the scrap PCB in the skillet to about 250C.  No change to 
the previous - grey looking surface to the reflowed paste.  Took the lid 
off while it was still very hot and there was a puddle of grey surfaced 
paste with a brown/yellow liquid (?flux) mixed in and surrounding it.

    3) Tried again without the lid on.  Noticed at about 120-150C the 
paste seemed to partially melt - there was small balls of bright solder 
inside the grey muck.  Over the next 20-30C the balls seemed to 
disappear under the grey stuff.  The flux did not obviously activate, no 
fumes. Continued to let the board heat up. Got the board so hot that the 
substrate started to smoulder and the binding glue bubbling out the 
sides of the board.  Still no joy.  Thought I'd try adding my soldering 
irons heat to the process to see what happened.  Flux activated and the 
paste seemed to do the right thing.

  Theory:  Skillet not transferring enough heat to the paste.  Would it 
have anything to do with the board being unetched????

  Don't know how to fix the problem.  Should I try a toaster oven??  
sparkfun.com document lots of problems with melting SMD connectors using 
an oven and I've already tried to hand solder one compact flash 
connector to a board - I'd prefer to reflow it with the other smd 
devices if I could.
 
  What do those experts out there think???

  Trev


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Trevor Matthews wrote:
> On Fri, 26 May 2006 03:06:21 +0200, Trevor Matthews
> 
> 
>><trev.matthews@...> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>>My next attempt with scrap was going to let the skillet go higher and
>>>see what happens, but I've tried to melt it with my soldering iron -  I
>>>can move it about and see bright tin underneath, but it doesn't change
>>>the consistancy of the crust at all.  I thought I might try to reflow
>>>the paste with just my soldering iron and see what happens then as well.
>>>Unfortunately, I can't run my skillet much higher than 180C without
>>>leaving the lid on, which means I can't see what happens to the paste as
>>>it melts, so I can't check to see if the crust is there straight away,
>>>or if it forms over time (as it would if it melts, then oxidises as
>>>temperature rises and as time increases)
>>>thanks for your help
>>>Trev
>>>
>>
>>OK, if the crust does not melt/reflow when heated with an iron directly,  
>>at normal soldering temperatures, i'm pretts sure something is wrong with  
>>the paste.
>>I can assure you "working" SMD paste does not form a crust, it will reflow  
>>with a shiny surface and some flux residue.
>>
> I've tried a couple of things and here are my results:
>     1) I placed a couple of blobs of paste on my scrap PCB and melted 
> them with my soldering iron - success, the flux burnt off, and nice 
> shiny paste.  Even the paste I did not heat directly did the right thing.
> 
>     2)  Heated the scrap PCB in the skillet to about 250C.  No change to 
> the previous - grey looking surface to the reflowed paste.  Took the lid 
> off while it was still very hot and there was a puddle of grey surfaced 
> paste with a brown/yellow liquid (?flux) mixed in and surrounding it.
> 
>     3) Tried again without the lid on.  Noticed at about 120-150C the 
> paste seemed to partially melt - there was small balls of bright solder 
> inside the grey muck.  Over the next 20-30C the balls seemed to 
> disappear under the grey stuff.  The flux did not obviously activate, no 
> fumes. Continued to let the board heat up. Got the board so hot that the 
> substrate started to smoulder and the binding glue bubbling out the 
> sides of the board.  Still no joy.  Thought I'd try adding my soldering 
> irons heat to the process to see what happened.  Flux activated and the 
> paste seemed to do the right thing.
> 
>   Theory:  Skillet not transferring enough heat to the paste.  Would it 
> have anything to do with the board being unetched????
> 
>   Don't know how to fix the problem.  Should I try a toaster oven??  
> sparkfun.com document lots of problems with melting SMD connectors using 
> an oven and I've already tried to hand solder one compact flash 
> connector to a board - I'd prefer to reflow it with the other smd 
> devices if I could.
>  
>   What do those experts out there think???

Should use a higher temperature for a shorter time to reduce oxidation
problems. Try 350degC.

On Sat, 27 May 2006 05:16:45 +0200, Trevor Matthews  
<trev.matthews@ozemail.com.au> wrote:

>
> I've tried a couple of things and here are my results:
>     1) I placed a couple of blobs of paste on my scrap PCB and melted
> them with my soldering iron - success, the flux burnt off, and nice
> shiny paste.  Even the paste I did not heat directly did the right thing.
>    2)  Heated the scrap PCB in the skillet to about 250C.  No change to
> the previous - grey looking surface to the reflowed paste.  Took the lid
> off while it was still very hot and there was a puddle of grey surfaced
> paste with a brown/yellow liquid (?flux) mixed in and surrounding it.
>    3) Tried again without the lid on.  Noticed at about 120-150C the
> paste seemed to partially melt - there was small balls of bright solder
> inside the grey muck.  Over the next 20-30C the balls seemed to
> disappear under the grey stuff.  The flux did not obviously activate, no
> fumes. Continued to let the board heat up. Got the board so hot that the
> substrate started to smoulder and the binding glue bubbling out the
> sides of the board.  Still no joy.  Thought I'd try adding my soldering
> irons heat to the process to see what happened.  Flux activated and the
> paste seemed to do the right thing.
>  Theory:  Skillet not transferring enough heat to the paste.  Would it
> have anything to do with the board being unetched????
>  Don't know how to fix the problem.  Should I try a toaster oven??
> sparkfun.com document lots of problems with melting SMD connectors using
> an oven and I've already tried to hand solder one compact flash
> connector to a board - I'd prefer to reflow it with the other smd
> devices if I could.
>  What do those experts out there think???
>  Trev


I still think your temperature is too low.
What board material did you use that decomposed?

I don't use a hotplate, so i don't know the tricks there, i use hot air  
 from the component side.
Maybe try that. You need a hot air gun (preferrably with temperature  
control) or some other hot air tool.

The oven could be just as problematic if you cannot get the temperature to  
rise fast enough.

ST

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "Trevor Matthews" <trev.matthews@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 4:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Qu about old reflow solder paste


> On Fri, 26 May 2006 03:06:21 +0200, Trevor Matthews
>
>><trev.matthews@...> wrote:
>>
> I've tried a couple of things and here are my results:
>    1) I placed a couple of blobs of paste on my scrap PCB and melted
> them with my soldering iron - success, the flux burnt off, and nice
> shiny paste.  Even the paste I did not heat directly did the right thing.
>
>    2)  Heated the scrap PCB in the skillet to about 250C.  No change to
> the previous - grey looking surface to the reflowed paste.  Took the lid
> off while it was still very hot and there was a puddle of grey surfaced
> paste with a brown/yellow liquid (?flux) mixed in and surrounding it.
>
>    3) Tried again without the lid on.  Noticed at about 120-150C the
> paste seemed to partially melt - there was small balls of bright solder
> inside the grey muck.  Over the next 20-30C the balls seemed to
> disappear under the grey stuff.  The flux did not obviously activate, no
> fumes. Continued to let the board heat up. Got the board so hot that the
> substrate started to smoulder and the binding glue bubbling out the
> sides of the board.  Still no joy.  Thought I'd try adding my soldering
> irons heat to the process to see what happened.  Flux activated and the
> paste seemed to do the right thing.
>
>  Theory:  Skillet not transferring enough heat to the paste.  Would it
> have anything to do with the board being unetched????
>
>  Don't know how to fix the problem.  Should I try a toaster oven??
> sparkfun.com document lots of problems with melting SMD connectors using
> an oven and I've already tried to hand solder one compact flash
> connector to a board - I'd prefer to reflow it with the other smd
> devices if I could.
>
>  What do those experts out there think???

I just repeated your experiment. Not having a suitable skillet I just used 
the hotplate on the electric stove (don't know the temp, I just guessed the 
setting), and it worked perfectly! I just put a couple of blobs of solder on 
a small scrap of polished SRBP PCB material (easier to cut than FR4) and put 
it on the hotplate. In a couple of minutes or so the blobs liquified and 
spread out, then the flux burnt off leaving little puddles of nice shiny 
solder, surrounded by flux residue. Your paste must be knackered, you need 
to buy some new good quality new stuff. I used Warton Metals Microprint 
P2004, in a syringe.

Suitable electric skillets are difficult to get hold of here in the UK, so I 
might try using the stove hotplate for a real board. I do have a toaster 
oven, but haven't tried it yet.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller 

---
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Leon,

You are comparing apples and bananas. He said in his original 
message he was using Radio shack solder paste. This is identical to 
the plumbers paste for use on copper pipes, I have both, It is not 
the refined version for smt pcb's and has none of the 
characateristics.

The plumber's paste is designed to be reflowed with a propane torch.

The only apparent advantage for the plumber pastes is that it is 
very cheap.

Myc


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon Heller" 
<leon.heller@...> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Trevor Matthews" <trev.matthews@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 4:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Qu about old reflow solder paste
> 
> 
> > On Fri, 26 May 2006 03:06:21 +0200, Trevor Matthews
> >
> >><trev.matthews@...> wrote:
> >>
> > I've tried a couple of things and here are my results:
> >    1) I placed a couple of blobs of paste on my scrap PCB and 
melted
> > them with my soldering iron - success, the flux burnt off, and 
nice
> > shiny paste.  Even the paste I did not heat directly did the 
right thing.
> >
> >    2)  Heated the scrap PCB in the skillet to about 250C.  No 
change to
> > the previous - grey looking surface to the reflowed paste.  Took 
the lid
> > off while it was still very hot and there was a puddle of grey 
surfaced
> > paste with a brown/yellow liquid (?flux) mixed in and 
surrounding it.
> >
> >    3) Tried again without the lid on.  Noticed at about 120-150C 
the
> > paste seemed to partially melt - there was small balls of bright 
solder
> > inside the grey muck.  Over the next 20-30C the balls seemed to
> > disappear under the grey stuff.  The flux did not obviously 
activate, no
> > fumes. Continued to let the board heat up. Got the board so hot 
that the
> > substrate started to smoulder and the binding glue bubbling out 
the
> > sides of the board.  Still no joy.  Thought I'd try adding my 
soldering
> > irons heat to the process to see what happened.  Flux activated 
and the
> > paste seemed to do the right thing.
> >
> >  Theory:  Skillet not transferring enough heat to the paste.  
Would it
> > have anything to do with the board being unetched????
> >
> >  Don't know how to fix the problem.  Should I try a toaster 
oven??
> > sparkfun.com document lots of problems with melting SMD 
connectors using
> > an oven and I've already tried to hand solder one compact flash
> > connector to a board - I'd prefer to reflow it with the other smd
> > devices if I could.
> >
> >  What do those experts out there think???
> 
> I just repeated your experiment. Not having a suitable skillet I 
just used 
> the hotplate on the electric stove (don't know the temp, I just 
guessed the 
> setting), and it worked perfectly! I just put a couple of blobs of 
solder on 
> a small scrap of polished SRBP PCB material (easier to cut than 
FR4) and put 
> it on the hotplate. In a couple of minutes or so the blobs 
liquified and 
> spread out, then the flux burnt off leaving little puddles of nice 
shiny 
> solder, surrounded by flux residue. Your paste must be knackered, 
you need 
> to buy some new good quality new stuff. I used Warton Metals 
Microprint 
> P2004, in a syringe.
> 
> Suitable electric skillets are difficult to get hold of here in 
the UK, so I 
> might try using the stove hotplate for a real board. I do have a 
toaster 
> oven, but haven't tried it yet.
> 
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller, G1HSM
> leon.heller@...
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller 
> 
> ---
> [This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your 
responsibility 
> to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you 
are
> currently using to read this email. ]
>

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "mycroft2152" <mycroft2152@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 11:45 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Qu about old reflow solder paste


Leon,

You are comparing apples and bananas. He said in his original
message he was using Radio shack solder paste. This is identical to
the plumbers paste for use on copper pipes, I have both, It is not
the refined version for smt pcb's and has none of the
characateristics.

The plumber's paste is designed to be reflowed with a propane torch.

The only apparent advantage for the plumber pastes is that it is
very cheap.

I wouldn't even have bothered trying the stuff, it's obvious it would be a 
waste of time!

Leon 

---
[This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility 
to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
currently using to read this email. ]

On Sat, 27 May 2006 12:52:08 +0200, Leon Heller  
<leon.heller@bulldoghome.com> wrote:

> Leon,
> You are comparing apples and bananas. He said in his original
> message he was using Radio shack solder paste. This is identical to
> the plumbers paste for use on copper pipes, I have both, It is not
> the refined version for smt pcb's and has none of the
> characateristics.
> The plumber's paste is designed to be reflowed with a propane torch.
> The only apparent advantage for the plumber pastes is that it is
> very cheap.
> I wouldn't even have bothered trying the stuff, it's obvious it would be  
> a
> waste of time!
> Leon


What? Radio shack sells plumbing paste? I thought this was an electronics  
place?

Of course then it will not work like it should! The plumbing paste seems  
to need much higher temperature to fully reflow, compared to the SMD  
paste. I suggest the OP gets some real SMD paste from a reputable supplier  
(that excludes Radio Shack) and it will work.

ST

Radio shack seels "Solder Paste" It is the samll as
plumbers paste in a smaller, more expensive package.

Myc

--- Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

> On Sat, 27 May 2006 12:52:08 +0200, Leon Heller  
> <leon.heller@...> wrote:
> 
> > Leon,
> > You are comparing apples and bananas. He said in
> his original
> > message he was using Radio shack solder paste.
> This is identical to
> > the plumbers paste for use on copper pipes, I have
> both, It is not
> > the refined version for smt pcb's and has none of
> the
> > characateristics.
> > The plumber's paste is designed to be reflowed
> with a propane torch.
> > The only apparent advantage for the plumber pastes
> is that it is
> > very cheap.
> > I wouldn't even have bothered trying the stuff,
> it's obvious it would be  
> > a
> > waste of time!
> > Leon
> 
> 
> What? Radio shack sells plumbing paste? I thought
> this was an electronics  
> place?
> 
> Of course then it will not work like it should! The
> plumbing paste seems  
> to need much higher temperature to fully reflow,
> compared to the SMD  
> paste. I suggest the OP gets some real SMD paste
> from a reputable supplier  
> (that excludes Radio Shack) and it will work.
> 
> ST
> 
> 
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Leon,

  I'm not sure that we're talking about the same company.

  I got this (what I thought was) electronics solder paste from 
www.rsaustralia.com.au.  I thought they (RS components) were different 
from Radio Shack.  I understood that radio shack in the US was tandy 
here is aus.

  RS Components certainly advertised this as SMD solder paste.

  Could someone please clarify

Thanks
Trev

Leon Heller wrote:

>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "mycroft2152" <mycroft2152@...>
>To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 11:45 AM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Qu about old reflow solder paste
>
>
>Leon,
>
>You are comparing apples and bananas. He said in his original
>message he was using Radio shack solder paste. This is identical to
>the plumbers paste for use on copper pipes, I have both, It is not
>the refined version for smt pcb's and has none of the
>characateristics.
>
>The plumber's paste is designed to be reflowed with a propane torch.
>
>The only apparent advantage for the plumber pastes is that it is
>very cheap.
>
>I wouldn't even have bothered trying the stuff, it's obvious it would be a 
>waste of time!
>
>Leon 
>
>---
>[This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility 
>to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
>currently using to read this email. ]
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "Trevor Matthews" <trev.matthews@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Qu about old reflow solder paste


Leon,

  I'm not sure that we're talking about the same company.

  I got this (what I thought was) electronics solder paste from
www.rsaustralia.com.au.  I thought they (RS components) were different
from Radio Shack.  I understood that radio shack in the US was tandy
here is aus.

  RS Components certainly advertised this as SMD solder paste.


That *should* be OK, I buy a lot of stuff from RS Components here in the UK. 
What is the actual RS part number? Perhaps your problems are due to it being 
old stock.

Everyone seems to have assumed it was Radio Shack/Tandy.

Leon 

---
[This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility 
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> Trevor wrote:
> I got this (what I thought was) electronics
> solder paste from www.rsaustralia.com.au.

> I thought they (RS components) were different 
> from Radio Shack.  I understood that radio
> shack in the US was tandy here is aus.

Yes - RS Components is in full "Radio Spares"

RS Components is common to those of us in OZ
or UK. (like Leon and Trevor)

For the Americans and others out there - RS
Components is kinda like an over priced
Digikey with less stock.  (Though I must
admit in the last 5 year RS has picked up
the game a lot and are much better prices
now)

RS to the Americans is Radio Shack.

Tandy in Australia WAS Radio Shack until just
about 2 years ago.  They did sell a lot of
Radio Shack branded goods.  I think they only
managed to survive on sales of telephone
answering machines and butane torches that
could be adapted to become bulbulators.

Today Tandy in OZ is owned by Dick-Smith-
Electronics/Woolworths/Adelaide-Steamships.

They seem to be consolitating and are
selling less and less Radio Shack gear.
We can only hope they don't stop selling
the bulbulators.

Stock number 184-9985
    (It is quite old best before wk 50, 2003 it's remained in the fridge 
apart from a few mins each use.  It is a multicore solder, "No clean RMA 
dispensing solder cream"

  Trev

Leon Heller wrote:

>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Trevor Matthews" <trev.matthews@...>
>To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 11:56 AM
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Qu about old reflow solder paste
>
>
>Leon,
>
>  I'm not sure that we're talking about the same company.
>
>  I got this (what I thought was) electronics solder paste from
>www.rsaustralia.com.au.  I thought they (RS components) were different
>from Radio Shack.  I understood that radio shack in the US was tandy
>here is aus.
>
>  RS Components certainly advertised this as SMD solder paste.
>
>
>That *should* be OK, I buy a lot of stuff from RS Components here in the UK. 
>What is the actual RS part number? Perhaps your problems are due to it being 
>old stock.
>
>Everyone seems to have assumed it was Radio Shack/Tandy.
>
>Leon 
>
>---
>[This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility 
>to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
>currently using to read this email. ]
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>

On Mon, 29 May, 2006 4:36 am, Trevor Matthews wrote:
> Stock number 184-9985
> (It is quite old best before wk 50, 2003 it's remained in the fridge
> apart from a few mins each use.  It is a multicore solder, "No clean RMA
> dispensing solder cream"
>


I'd have thought that would work without any problems. I'd buy some more
and see how that behaves.

Leon

Ok, I;ll bite.

What is a "bulbulator"?

Myc

--- Andrew <andrewm1973@...> wrote:

> > Trevor wrote:
> > I got this (what I thought was) electronics
> > solder paste from www.rsaustralia.com.au.
> 
> > I thought they (RS components) were different 
> > from Radio Shack.  I understood that radio
> > shack in the US was tandy here is aus.
> 
> Yes - RS Components is in full "Radio Spares"
> 
> RS Components is common to those of us in OZ
> or UK. (like Leon and Trevor)
> 
> For the Americans and others out there - RS
> Components is kinda like an over priced
> Digikey with less stock.  (Though I must
> admit in the last 5 year RS has picked up
> the game a lot and are much better prices
> now)
> 
> RS to the Americans is Radio Shack.
> 
> Tandy in Australia WAS Radio Shack until just
> about 2 years ago.  They did sell a lot of
> Radio Shack branded goods.  I think they only
> managed to survive on sales of telephone
> answering machines and butane torches that
> could be adapted to become bulbulators.
> 
> Today Tandy in OZ is owned by Dick-Smith-
> Electronics/Woolworths/Adelaide-Steamships.
> 
> They seem to be consolitating and are
> selling less and less Radio Shack gear.
> We can only hope they don't stop selling
> the bulbulators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


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On 29/05/06, Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote:
> Ok, I;ll bite.
>
> What is a "bulbulator"?
>
> Myc



I wasnt going to ask.......

In article <e5dfrp+kn6i@...>,
   Andrew <andrewm1973@...> wrote:
> Yes - RS Components is in full "Radio Spares"

Well, used to be. In those days they specialised in electronic parts for
the TV and radio repair trade.

See:

http://www.rs-components.co.uk/

Judging by the last Digikey catalogue I saw, RS beats them hand over fist
at least for the UK market. Prices of everything are much lower in the
states whoever sells them.

Not that I use RS veru much, I prefer Farnell or CPC.

> > andrewm wrote:
> > They seem to be consolitating and are
> > selling less and less Radio Shack gear.
> > We can only hope they don't stop selling
> > the bulbulators.
>
> myc wrote:
> Ok, I;ll bite.
> 
> What is a "bulbulator"?

bulbulator n. Any device used for removing
the contents of a whipped cream bulb for
other more interesting uses than whipping
cream.

Some people even use those whipped cream
bulbs for hotting up their little 20cc
2 stroke push scooters these days :D

I am not sure that Nitrous Oxide has any
use in the home made PCBs though.