Homebrew PCBs

Ok so i fetched that printer today.
The colored carts were indicated as empty, so i took a few minutes to  
follow the instructions here:
<http://www.eddiem.com/photo/printer/chipreset/resetchip.html>
(the SSC utility can't reset on that model and i didn't want to wait for  
ordering a resetter)
It seems i must have succeeded because the printer now starts up normally  
without indicating lack of ink and accepts stuff to print.

However i do not correctly see the ink levels in the silly service utility  
that somehow assimilated my PC (that's what it feels like really because  
that window does _not_ have a button to close it, only minimize!).
Is this normal for a LPT connection? I'll try USB next...


It looks to me as if nothing at all is printing, not a surprise, since i  
bought this printer as dead/clogged up.
I'll have to clean it, and look if that vacuum hose has slipped off or is  
clogged. Also i'll need to put ink in.

The thing isn't as flimsy as i feared. I must say considering the fact  
that they must have fallen victim to acute shortage of screws the case  
appears pretty sturdy actually. Also the printer is _a lot_ quieter than  
the stylus 600...

What i noticed - the paper seems to go backward at times during printing,  
is that normal?

Anyway, just to let you know i now have a C84 and hope to try it very soon  
with mispro ink and PCBs.
Let's be honest, the printer is shit, otherwise there wouldn't be so many  
on ebay for nothing. But if i could get it to work for PCBs i would have a  
steady supply of new printers and replacement parts for 1eur each. Also,  
it is probably the most widely available model right now (even new it is  
affordable), so if we could come up with a way to use it everyone would be  
able to replicate the procedure.

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> 
> Ok so i fetched that printer today.
> The colored carts were indicated as empty, so i took a few minutes 
> to  
> follow the instructions here:
> <http://www.eddiem.com/photo/printer/chipreset/resetchip.html>
> (the SSC utility can't reset on that model and i didn't want to wait 
> for  
> ordering a resetter)
> It seems i must have succeeded because the printer now starts up 
> normally  
> without indicating lack of ink and accepts stuff to print.

I think the SSC utility is designed to reset with a 'build it 
yourself' resetter (the diagram for it is in the help files 
somewhere). I don't think it can reset cartridges in the printer, it 
can only lock the ink levels from decreasing.

> 
> However i do not correctly see the ink levels in the silly service 
> utility  
> that somehow assimilated my PC (that's what it feels like really 
> because  
> that window does _not_ have a button to close it, only minimize!).
> Is this normal for a LPT connection? I'll try USB next...
> 

If you mean the Epson Status Monitor that sits in your System Tray, if 
you right-click on it and select Monitoring Preferences, you should be 
able to disable it. The driver for the C84 could be different from the 
C88, so I may be way off on this one. Also, I think the SSC utility 
has a checkbox for 'disable Epson assistant'

> 
> It looks to me as if nothing at all is printing, not a surprise, 
> since i  
> bought this printer as dead/clogged up.
> I'll have to clean it, and look if that vacuum hose has slipped off 
> or is  
> clogged. Also i'll need to put ink in.

If you go to Google Groups and search comp.periphs.printers for 
'Arthur Entlich', he can e-mail you instructions on how to unclog 
Epson printers.

 
> The thing isn't as flimsy as i feared. I must say considering the 
> fact  
> that they must have fallen victim to acute shortage of screws the 
> case  
> appears pretty sturdy actually. Also the printer is _a lot_ quieter 
> than  
> the stylus 600...
> 
> What i noticed - the paper seems to go backward at times during 
> printing,  
> is that normal?

Not sure on that one, you could try cleaning the feed rollers. It 
could be trying to keep the paper aligned properly. If it's printing 
fine, I'd just ignore it.

> 
> Anyway, just to let you know i now have a C84 and hope to try it 
> very soon  
> with mispro ink and PCBs.
> Let's be honest, the printer is shit, otherwise there wouldn't be so 
> many  
> on ebay for nothing. But if i could get it to work for PCBs i would 
> have a  
> steady supply of new printers and replacement parts for 1eur each. 
> Also,  
> it is probably the most widely available model right now (even new 
> it is  
> affordable), so if we could come up with a way to use it everyone 
> would be  
> able to replicate the procedure.
> 
> ST
>

While I have a very strong dislike of Epson (horrible warranty 
service, not to mention that 'settlement' for their printers falsely 
reporting cartridges empty), I will say that the printer itself isn't 
usually the issue. The problem is those DuraBrite inks. It's like 
acrylic enamel rather than watery dye, so if you don't use the printer 
24/7, it will dry out within days, if not hours, and is very difficult 
to unclog. The C88 Durabrite Ultra ink seems to be even /more/ of a 
problem. I reccomend aftermarket refills for these printers even if 
you aren't modifying them for PCB stuff.

The only reason I tend to think an R200 would be easier to modify is 
because it's already designed with a straight-through path for the CD 
printing function, while the 88 is not. Also, for those of you buying 
older models used to test for taking them apart, if you run into 'the 
printer has shut down for maintenance' problems, it's probably the 
waste ink tank overfilling. There's details on how to solve this 
problem here (I can't remember if I or someone else has posted this 
link before). The C printers are harder to modify than the R printers 
(you have to 'break off' the right side panel to get to the waste ink 
tube), but with the modification along with the SSC utility, you 
should get an Epson to work a very long time.

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=51595&forum_id=40

On Thu, 25 May 2006 00:39:17 +0200, fenrir_co <fenrir@...>  
wrote:

> While I have a very strong dislike of Epson (horrible warranty
> service, not to mention that 'settlement' for their printers falsely
> reporting cartridges empty), I will say that the printer itself isn't
> usually the issue. The problem is those DuraBrite inks. It's like
> acrylic enamel rather than watery dye, so if you don't use the printer
> 24/7, it will dry out within days, if not hours, and is very difficult
> to unclog. The C88 Durabrite Ultra ink seems to be even /more/ of a
> problem. I reccomend aftermarket refills for these printers even if
> you aren't modifying them for PCB stuff.


Well, it's good then the provious owner was cheap and has put in non-epson  
carts.

ST

I cleaned the C84 today.
WHAT A MESS!!!

It was full of gummed up ink, there must have been several hundred $ of  
ink dried up in there.
I took it apart completely, the vacuum hose was totally blocked, The waste  
ink pad is nicely large, but the problem is the ink only goes about a cm  
into it before it gums up and prevents more ink from being soaked up. So  
95% of the waste ink pad is pristine white while backing-up ink was  
already flowing out and over into other areas that were not designed to  
take ink.
I did try to clean a small piece of saturated wasteink pad, but gave up  
quickly, it's just too much in there. I ended up cutting off the saturated  
ares. There were dried ink deposits many millimeters thick in places, i  
could scrape them out with a screwdriver to discard them, the rest was  
washed in the sink. It seems best IMO to take the parking station out too,  
since it's usually very dirty and washes nicely in the sink without  
introducing fibers. The vacuum hose was cleared with a large syringe and  
hot water, i had to disassemble the peristaltic pump to straighten out the  
hose or it wouldn't clean. I also use the "wettex" strip again under the  
head, and saturated the parking pad with cleaning solution just before  
returning the head as per Steve's instructions.

When the thing was put together again i got a almost perfect nozzle test,  
only 3 or 4 out or missing. A single black head cleaning cycle later and i  
have 100% all OK. I left in the original (non-epson) ink because it felt  
still very heavy/full, i plan to empty the black and refill with mispro in  
the afternoon. I'll also have to sort out how to get PCBs through.


Anyway, apart from the obvious shortcomings of this printer (snaps instead  
of screws) it is still reasonably sturdy. And it is very quiet compared to  
the older models. It doesn't look that way at first, but this printer will  
work as a skeleton with all the plastic bodywork removed. Let's just hope  
now this printer will lay down a good resist and we should have a very  
suitable candidate. There are plenty out there with "clogged head"  
problems, and i'm fairly sure in reality most of them merely have  
obstructed vacuum plumbing.


I'll let you know how it goes with the mispro ink on pcb.

ST

Things are going badly with this printer.

After very good success with cleaning yesterday i wanted to try on PCB  
today.
Nozzle check is very bad.
I dunno what happened.


But the chip thing is criminal. A single cleaning cycle will take out a  
quarter of the cartridge! That's ridiculous!
I dunno how i can possibly work with this sh**. I mean i need to pull the  
carts to reset, but that will require cleaning to get the air out, this in  
turn takes most of the ink count away. I'm really fed up with that  
nonsensical chip crap.

I noticed the chip contacts seem to go through only a few traces on one  
side of the flexible ribbon cable to the head. I think it would be  
possible to cut this from the rest of the cable and mount the chips  
separately in a stationary setup. This would allow me to reset them  
without pulling the carts.

Any ideas if it would be possible to connect a micro that listens for the  
readout command and says "100% you stupid a**" each time it is asked?  
There is just _NO WAY_ i'm paying $60 for a set of auto reset chips,  
that's ridiculous.

As good as things looked yesterday, i wish i hadn't touched the printer  
today, it's really killing my mood when everything goes wrong. I need to  
sort the bloody chips before i can find out why it isn't printing.


ST

> separately in a stationary setup. This would allow me to reset them
> without pulling the carts.
>
> Any ideas if it would be possible to connect a micro that listens for the
> readout command and says "100% you stupid a**" each time it is asked?


such chips can be bought, although I cant see why a 12c508 etc cant do
the job for 1/10 the cost of those 'super chips'

BTW did I not read that constantly reporting 100% full is not good,
and that 80% or so was better?

On Sun, 28 May 2006 23:36:51 +0200, Lez <lez.briddon@...> wrote:

>
> such chips can be bought,


Yes, for $60 the set at inksupply.com. Since their resetter is also more  
expensive than usual i expect they will be cheaper elsewhere, but i paid  
1eur for the bloody printer!

> although I cant see why a 12c508 etc cant do
> the job for 1/10 the cost of those 'super chips'

I agree a micro must be capable of doing the same thing. It can be placed  
elsewhere in the printer intercepting the signals, no need for it to be  
small enough to fit the cart.

> BTW did I not read that constantly reporting 100% full is not good,
> and that 80% or so was better?

Would be fine with me, only i don't want to figure out the software myself  
;-)

ST

Stefan, I feel your "Pain".  This morning I jamed up my nice new CD 
printer big time. I checked and re-checked to make sure the PCB 
would go through with the tray and such.  It didn't, everything 
jammed up.  In total frustration and disgust, I turned it off, 
walked away from it and went back to the finer things  in life - 
programming.

I will deal with the printer when I have a very level head cause if 
I don't, it will end up under the tires of my truck :-(


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> Things are going badly with this printer.
> 
> After very good success with cleaning yesterday i wanted to try on 
PCB  
> today.
> Nozzle check is very bad.
> I dunno what happened.
> 
> 
> But the chip thing is criminal. A single cleaning cycle will take 
out a  
> quarter of the cartridge! That's ridiculous!
> I dunno how i can possibly work with this sh**. I mean i need to 
pull the  
> carts to reset, but that will require cleaning to get the air out, 
this in  
> turn takes most of the ink count away. I'm really fed up with 
that  
> nonsensical chip crap.
> 
> I noticed the chip contacts seem to go through only a few traces 
on one  
> side of the flexible ribbon cable to the head. I think it would 
be  
> possible to cut this from the rest of the cable and mount the 
chips  
> separately in a stationary setup. This would allow me to reset 
them  
> without pulling the carts.
> 
> Any ideas if it would be possible to connect a micro that listens 
for the  
> readout command and says "100% you stupid a**" each time it is 
asked?  
> There is just _NO WAY_ i'm paying $60 for a set of auto reset 
chips,  
> that's ridiculous.
> 
> As good as things looked yesterday, i wish i hadn't touched the 
printer  
> today, it's really killing my mood when everything goes wrong. I 
need to  

> sort the bloody chips before i can find out why it isn't printing.
> 
> 
> ST
>

Hi All,
Finally I have completed my printer modifications and successfully printed double layer PCB. I have used 31mils FR4 for easy cutting using my paper trimmer. The most difficult part was to solve the Y axis random starting position problem. I realized that it is because of optical sensor mounted on the printer head which I disabled. Now, instead of this sensor I am using slotted optical switch that was used as a paper detect switch on the printer. I assembled this optical switch to the left rear side paper entry of the printer and it detects small slot on the tray to find the Y axis starting position. I modified my paper emulator software to use this sensor signal. 
Steps of the double layer printing
1-Drill PCB with CNC
2-Paper sand and clean the PCB
3-Roughly estimate the position of the printed image on tray and put drilled PCB to this location and loosely fix it by Scotch.
4-Cover PCB with transparency and securely fix the transparency by Scotch.
5-Print your with via/holes unfilled image on transparency
6-Now, using small PCB sticks align the holes of the  PCB to the image on the transparency
7-Remove transparency
8-Reprint image with filled via/holes on PCB
9-Dry the image
10-Repeat it for solder side
11-Cure the PCB
12-Etch the PCB

I will upload the images to the photo's/volkan's folder. If high resolution images are required I can e-mail them.
Cheers
Volkan

 
  
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have also tried to use ink as a solder resist. It is difficult to believe but it also acts as a solder resist. I have downloaded the result under 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/files/Volkan%20Epson%20Inkjet%20PCB/
I am satisfied with the results. 
Steps of solder resist printing with Epson inkjet printer
1-Clean the etched PCB with Ajax 
2-Roughly estimate the position of the printed image on tray and put PCB to this location and loosely fix it by Scotch.
3-Cover PCB with transparency and fix the transparency by Scotch.
5-Set ink color level to -15 for CX4200 
6-Print your solder resist image on transparency
6-Now, using small PCB sticks align the pads of the PCB to the image on the transparency
7-Remove transparency
8-Reprint image on PCB
9-Dry the image and repeat item 8 two times with ink color level set to +10 for CX4200
10-Repeat the above process for the other layer.
11-Cure both sides
12-Remove copper oxide by Tarn-X or diluted HCL
Note: For solder resist you need to use negative image. 
Cheers
Volkan 

----- Original Message ----
From: Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 1:37:42 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] First CNC drilled Epson Ink Jet printed double layer PCB results

     
 Hi All,
 Finally I have completed my printer modifications and successfully printed double layer PCB.
 
      



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sorry for typo I have uploaded the files.

----- Original Message ----
From: Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 4:56:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First CNC drilled Epson Ink Jet printed double layer PCB results+solder resist

    I have also tried to use ink as a solder resist. It is difficult to believe but it also acts as a solder resist. I have downloaded the result under 
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/files/Volkan%20Epson%20Inkjet%20PCB/
 I am satisfied with the results. 
 Steps of solder resist printing with Epson inkjet printer
 1-Clean the etched PCB with Ajax 
 2-Roughly estimate the position of the printed image on tray and put PCB to this location and loosely fix it by Scotch.
 3-Cover PCB with transparency and fix the transparency by Scotch.
 5-Set ink color level to -15 for CX4200 
 6-Print your solder resist image on transparency
 6-Now, using small PCB sticks align the pads of the PCB to the image on the transparency
 7-Remove transparency
 8-Reprint image on PCB
 9-Dry the image and repeat item 8 two times with ink color level set to +10 for CX4200
 10-Repeat the above process for the other layer.
 11-Cure both sides
 12-Remove copper oxide by Tarn-X or diluted HCL
 Note: For solder resist you need to use negative image. 
 Cheers
 Volkan 
  
 
 ----- Original Message ----
 From: Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...>
 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 1:37:42 AM
 Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] First CNC drilled Epson Ink Jet printed double layer PCB results
 
      
  Hi All,
  Finally I have completed my printer modifications and successfully printed double layer PCB.
  
       
 
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
     

  Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
 
 If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 

              

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ok, I'll take the bullet for the other newbs.  What exactly is going on in
this process and what is the purpose?

If I understood properly by looking at one uploaded solder-resist pic, the
point is to 'mask' everywhere you do NOT want solder.  Volkan is in effect
applying that green paint that is commonly used (but reddish instead).  He
took the image of what would be used to apply solder to the lands, turned it
into a negative, and then painted everywhere else except the lands, right?
Or did I miss something?

If that is it, this is awesome!  I've tried different ways of doing that and
the best I could do was a disgusting mess.

Robert
:)


> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Volkan Sahin
> Envoyé : mai 29 2006 20:03
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First CNC drilled Epson Ink Jet 
> printed double layer PCB results+solder resist
> 
>     I have also tried to use ink as a solder resist. It is 
> difficult to believe but it also acts as a solder resist. I 
> have downloaded the result under 
>  
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/files/Vol
> kan%20Epson%20Inkjet%20PCB/
...
>  Volkan

> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 4:56:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First CNC drilled Epson Ink Jet 
> printed double layer PCB results+solder resist
> 
>     I have also tried to use ink as a solder resist. It is 
> difficult to believe but it also acts as a solder resist. I 
> have downloaded the result under 
>  
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/files/Vol
> kan%20Epson%20Inkjet%20PCB/
...
>  Volkan 


Volkan,

Have you considered applying a silkscreen layer on top of the solder resist?
That's really all you're missing for a professional touch.  What you've
posted is already top-notch material, excellent work.

Robert
:)

You are not missing something, you are right. The main idea with the solder resist is to stop the solder in unwanted areas. This is important especially in SMD components, excess solder can cause bridges so short circuit. Another issue is excess solder can change the impedance of  microstrip lines used in RF circuit. The reddish  color comes from mixture of yellow, magenta and black (MIS Pro MP-4 Photo Black) to make it more etch resistant and visible and after curing it becomes dark reddish. You can directly use negative image of pads but in reality enlarged version of  is used to help alignment.  
 Volkan


..... If that is it, this is awesome!  I've tried different ways of doing that and
the best I could do was a disgusting mess.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You are right.  Only problem is I don't have white. Next time I can try to use black for example. Indeed it can be printed at the same time while printing solder resist.
Volkan

-
 
 Have you considered applying a silkscreen layer on top of the solder resist?

 
     

  Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
 
 If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 

              

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 Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Volkan Sahin
> Envoyé : mai 29 2006 22:31
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE :First CNC drilled Epson Ink 
> Jet printed double layer PCB results+solder resist
> 
> 
> You are right.  Only problem is I don't have white. Next time 
> I can try to use black for example. Indeed it can be printed 
> at the same time while printing solder resist. Volkan


What about off-white?  Can you use a mixture of the 3 colours to get
something light enough to stand out over the dark reddish background?

Robert
:)

It is not RGB color it is MCYK (Magenta, cyan, yellow, black)  you can never get close to  white with mixture. We  may get blue or green. The problem is in cyan cartridge I am using mixture of black and yellow that results very bad green which you do not want to see on your PCB. Therefore no chance of blue.
Volkan  
 

What about off-white?  ....





Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Robert,

> What about off-white?  Can you use a mixture of the 3 colours to get
> something light enough to stand out over the dark reddish background?

On the monitor you can do this (additive color). Printing is
subtractive color. So you start with white and every color you add
makes it closer to black.

-- 
Dave Hylands
Vancouver, BC, Canada
http://www.DaveHylands.com/

Hi Volkan,

On 5/29/06, Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...> wrote:
>  It is not RGB color it is MCYK (Magenta, cyan, yellow, black)  you can never get close to  white with mixture. We  may get blue or green. The problem is in cyan cartridge I am using mixture of black and yellow that results very bad green which you do not want to see on your PCB. Therefore no chance of blue.

I thought about this some more. If your underlying fiberglass is white
or whiteish, you could get "white" text by not printing any ink. This
would only work if it was over a section of board with no traces.

-- 
Dave Hylands
Vancouver, BC, Canada
http://www.DaveHylands.com/

Hi Dave,
Thanks. All I have is something like yellow-green  FR4. I think we can find another type of white ink for silk screening
Volkan

>... If your underlying fiberglass is white
>or whiteish ...

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Dave Hylands
> Envoyé : mai 29 2006 23:05
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] RE :First CNC drilled Epson Ink 
> Jet printed double layer PCB results+solder resist
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about this some more. If your underlying fiberglass 
> is white or whiteish, you could get "white" text by not 
> printing any ink. This would only work if it was over a 
> section of board with no traces.
> 
> -- 
> Dave Hylands


I've been tining the boards and using mass fill of all open areas.  I've
been tinning to protect the copper from oxidation.  If we add a solder
resist layer, the copper should be protected.

But not using mass fill would use up etchant that much faster though.

Robert
:)

On Tue, 30 May 2006 01:56:01 +0200, Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...>  
wrote:

>  I have also tried to use ink as a solder resist. It is difficult to  
> believe but it also acts as a solder resist.


I actually almost expected that to work as well. The ink is reasonably  
tough once cured. Even if it doesn't resist soldering all that well it can  
still serve to protect the traces from oxidation.

But i've come up with a problem, if i want to print a component legend it  
would run into the soldermask.
Maybe it will work once the soldermask is cured, so that the ink will no  
longer mix and run about.


ST

On Tue, 30 May 2006 04:59:15 +0200, Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...>  
wrote:

>  The problem is in cyan cartridge I am using mixture of black and yellow  
> that results very bad green which you do not want to see on your PCB.  
> Therefore no chance of blue.
> Volkan


lol, indeed it is a very ugly green! I have tried using yellow only for  
the second refill, and one can still see it reasonably well. The  
interesting thing is the yellow turns slightly brownish when ready while  
curing on the stove, i'm not sure it does that mixed with black?

I think if we make the soldermask light colored, like yellow or green (mix  
yellow and blue not black) and the text a dark color it should work. I  
always used black toner for legend with no problems reading it, so if we  
can manage not to go much darker with the mask we will be fine. But i  
still think it'll not be possible to print both in one go.

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...> wrote:
>
>  I have also tried to use ink as a solder resist. It is difficult to
believe but it also acts as a solder resist. I have downloaded the
result under 
>

Hi Guys

I have no problem reading Homebrew_PCB's emails daily but when I try
and veiw Volkans files, the responce is that I'm not a member?

Alan G8ETUI

dumplindevon2000 wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...> wrote:
> >
> >  I have also tried to use ink as a solder resist. It is difficult to
> believe but it also acts as a solder resist. I have downloaded the
> result under
> >
>
> Hi Guys
>
> I have no problem reading Homebrew_PCB's emails daily but when I try
> and veiw Volkans files, the responce is that I'm not a member?

The images are hosted in the other 'archives' group, you'll just have to 
join it to get access.

Dave K

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dumplindevon2000"
<2alan.metcalf@...> wrote:

> Hi Guys
> 
> I have no problem reading Homebrew_PCB's emails daily but when I try
> and veiw Volkans files, the responce is that I'm not a member?

No problems reading them where? In your email, or on the group page?

You must be logged in to view photos and files.

You may also be attempting to look at links to the 2nd Homebrew_PCBs
list. You must be a member of it and logged in to view files and
photos there, too.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/join

Ah... there is another possibility. Yahoogroups prevents stealing
bandwidth from their Photos and Files section by giving you a
temporary link to the files when you click on them. So if someone does
a copy and paste of the link to the photo or file, it is no good in
about a half hour. Ever been looking at photos or files in a folder,
and halfway through it starts giving you file missing errors? When you
are back in the folder, hit Reload on your browser and you can view
the photos and files again.

Better to link to the folder, not the individual photos or files for
this reason.

Steve Greenfield

Hi Steve

I've just logged on to Homebrew_achives. I just thought it was all the same group.

Thanks Alan G8ETUI