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Blue CuCl etchant...

Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-02 by Bill Westfield

Does anyone have any ideas why my regenerated CuCl etchant would
be a blue-green color rather than the bright green I see on assorted
web pages? Etch speed sucks too :-( Perhaps I areated away all the
HCl? Are there impurities that would cause blue rather than green?
(THis is home-made etchant from HCl, H2O2, and assorted bits of scrap
copper; wire, pipe, etc...)

Thanks
Bill W

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-02 by Stefan Trethan

Your gut feeling is right, blue color indicates a lack of HCl.

Even if you add H2O2 it will just not do anything. There may also be a
blue stuff deposited on the copper.

Add HCl and all will be well again. You probably also need to regenerate
after that.


You may want to look into measuring HCl molarity, look through the CuCl
links section for the eyedropper method.

ST

On Tue, 02 May 2006 11:04:19 +0200, Bill Westfield <westfw@...>
wrote:

> Does anyone have any ideas why my regenerated CuCl etchant would
>
> be a blue-green color rather than the bright green I see on assorted
>
> web pages? Etch speed sucks too Perhaps I areated away all the
>
> HCl? Are there impurities that would cause blue rather than green?
>
> (THis is home-made etchant from HCl, H2O2, and assorted bits of scrap
>
> copper; wire, pipe, etc...)
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill W
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-02 by Herbert E. Plett

--- Bill Westfield <westfw@...> wrote:

> Does anyone have any ideas why my regenerated CuCl etchant would
> be a blue-green color rather than the bright green I see on assorted
> web pages? Etch speed sucks too :-( Perhaps I areated away all the
> HCl? Are there impurities that would cause blue rather than green?
> (THis is home-made etchant from HCl, H2O2, and assorted bits of scrap
> copper; wire, pipe, etc...)
>
> Thanks
> Bill W

regenerated? NO, -> degenerated!

etching is essentially the process of 'converting' metallic copper into water
soluble salts.
if you have an etchant and throw copper into it, then obviously it will do it's
work. if you put in enough of it, you will use up ALL of the etchants power and
the copper on the board will be 'spared'.

EVERY BIT of copper you drop into the bath means THAT MUCH LESS 'board copper'
left to 'dissolve' !!

this is valid for ANY type of etchant, should I say more?


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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-02 by William Kroyer

CuCl can be regenerated. It already has copper in it to begin with.
It seems to me that
when etching you are actually just making more CuCl. I've only recently
started reading
about this etchant but I'm guessing it's "reguvinated" by simply adding
more HCl or
H2O2.


Herbert E. Plett wrote:

> --- Bill Westfield <westfw@...> wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have any ideas why my regenerated CuCl etchant would
> > be a blue-green color rather than the bright green I see on assorted
> > web pages? Etch speed sucks too :-( Perhaps I areated away all the
> > HCl? Are there impurities that would cause blue rather than green?
> > (THis is home-made etchant from HCl, H2O2, and assorted bits of scrap
> > copper; wire, pipe, etc...)
> >
> > Thanks
> > Bill W
>
> regenerated? NO, -> degenerated!
>
> etching is essentially the process of 'converting' metallic copper
> into water
> soluble salts.
> if you have an etchant and throw copper into it, then obviously it
> will do it's
> work. if you put in enough of it, you will use up ALL of the etchants
> power and
> the copper on the board will be 'spared'.
>
> EVERY BIT of copper you drop into the bath means THAT MUCH LESS 'board
> copper'
> left to 'dissolve' !!
>
> this is valid for ANY type of etchant, should I say more?
>
>
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Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Bill Westfield

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, William Kroyer
<william.kroyer@...> wrote:
> CuCl can be regenerated. It already has copper in it to begin
> with. It seems to me that when etching you are actually just
> making more CuCl. ... I'm guessing it's "reguvinated" by
> simply adding more HCl or H2O2.

Yeah. See for instance here:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html#operate_acid
(or our own archives.)

The etch reaction is:
CuCl2 + Cu --> 2CuCl

Where CuCl2 is supposed to be bright green, and CuCl is brown muddy
stuff.

The "regeneration" reaction is:
CuCl + HCl + O --> CuCl2 + H2O
In my case the O is provided by bubbling air through the solution.

But the CuCl2 is supposed to be green, and the CuCl2 sorta brown and
borderline insoluble, so I'm at a loss as to how I got blue...

Dilute solution of CuOH, perhaps (this is normally pretty insoluble.)

I was hoping to avoid titration-like measurements, but perhaps this
is going to be impossible, basing replenishment on color, opacity,
and the fact that I though aeration-based replenishment would just
stop when it was done (and some free HCl isn't so bad), but I guess
I can also drive away all the HCl...

BillW

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Herbert E. Plett

--- William Kroyer <william.kroyer@...> wrote:


> ... but I'm guessing it's "reguvinated" by simply adding
> more HCl or H2O2.

in other words: you are pouring more 'pure' etchant into the weakened solution!


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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by William Kroyer

I can't give specifics. Others have worked it out.

" The etch reaction is:
CuCl2 + Cu --> 2CuCl

Where CuCl2 is supposed to be bright green, and CuCl is brown muddy
stuff.

The "regeneration" reaction is:
CuCl + HCl + O --> CuCl2 + H2O
In my case the O is provided by bubbling air through the solution."

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html#operate_acid
<http://members.optusnet.com.au/%7Eeseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html#operate_acid>

So I guess technically no. You are more or less using what is already
there to make more. The solution wouldn't be weakened. I would also
guess that eventually, you would need to start from scratch again though
due to impurities found on the board surface, dust or dirt getting into the
solution, etc.

As I have stated I've just started reading about this myself and am by no
means a chemistry major. But if the above listed reactions prove to hold
true then CuCl2 can indeed be salvaged and reused.

Herbert E. Plett wrote:

> --- William Kroyer <william.kroyer@...> wrote:
>
>
> > ... but I'm guessing it's "reguvinated" by simply adding
> > more HCl or H2O2.
>
> in other words: you are pouring more 'pure' etchant into the weakened
> solution!
>
>
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Herbert E. Plett

--- William Kroyer <william.kroyer@...> wrote:

...
> Where CuCl2 is supposed to be bright green, and CuCl is brown muddy
> stuff.
>
blue points to contamination with sulphate (sulfuric acid?)

...
> As I have stated I've just started reading about this myself and am by no
> means a chemistry major. But if the above listed reactions prove to hold
> true then CuCl2 can indeed be salvaged and reused.
yes, it's a sort of continuous process.
sorry, I misread a previous post :( (should listen more-talk less)



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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Stefan Trethan

On Wed, 03 May 2006 02:42:02 +0200, Bill Westfield <westfw@...>
wrote:

>
> I was hoping to avoid titration-like measurements, but perhaps this
>
> is going to be impossible, basing replenishment on color, opacity,
>
> and the fact that I though aeration-based replenishment would just
>
> stop when it was done (and some free HCl isn't so bad), but I guess
>
> I can also drive away all the HCl...
>
>
> BillW


It is possible if you simply add HCl when you see a bluish tinge or
etching slows down, and regenerating does no longer work.

I promise you the blue is lack of HCl, no fancy chemical formulas here,
but been there, seen that.

Measuring molarity is dead easy however and you don't have to wait for
trouble.

ST

Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Andrew

> ST wrote:
>
> I promise you the blue is lack of HCl,
> no fancy chemical formulas here, but
> been there, seen that.
>
> Measuring molarity is dead easy
> however and you don't have to wait for
> trouble.

Dead easy to measure with a hypodermic
needle and a small pyrex jar.

PLUS you get all the fun of pretending
to be a speed junkie when you go to the
chemist to buy the pick/sharps-kit :D

snow-cloning the compleat angler I have
to say

Doubt ye not etching with CuCl is an art.
But an art well worth your learning.

andrewm - a recent convert to the way of
CuCl

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Stefan Trethan

How do you you measure it with a syringe and a jar?
I only know the eyedropper method with counting drops.
But i plan to get some measuring pipettes off ebay for ages, just other
priorities getting in the way.

Anyway, i got plenty of syringes recently, with large needles, for the
inkjet stuff.
So if you know a way to use them to good effect let me know.

But wouldn't the stainless needle corrode from the etchant?

ST


On Wed, 03 May 2006 09:16:25 +0200, Andrew <andrewm1973@...> wrote:

> Dead easy to measure with a hypodermic
>
> needle and a small pyrex jar.
>
>
> PLUS you get all the fun of pretending
>
> to be a speed junkie when you go to the
>
> chemist to buy the pick/sharps-kit
>
>
> snow-cloning the compleat angler I have
>
> to say
>
>
> Doubt ye not etching with CuCl is an art.
>
> But an art well worth your learning.
>
>
> andrewm - a recent convert to the way of
>
> CuCl
>

Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Andrew

>ST wrote:
>
> How do you you measure it with a syringe and a jar?
> I only know the eyedropper method with counting drops.

Same way you do with an eye dropper.

Known volume of CuCl etchant in water

Known molarity base to mix in with it till the
solution start to precipitate.

Just that with a syringe you dont need to keep count

> But wouldn't the stainless needle corrode from the etchant?

Flush needle with water as soon as it is used to measure
etchant.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Stefan Trethan

On Wed, 03 May 2006 10:24:26 +0200, Andrew <andrewm1973@...> wrote:

> Same way you do with an eye dropper.
>
>
> Known volume of CuCl etchant in water
>
>
> Known molarity base to mix in with it till the
>
> solution start to precipitate.
>
>
> Just that with a syringe you dont need to keep count


I've seen a automatic titration tool, well, semi-automatic, that was very
similar to this, also with something like a syringe needle for a dispenser.

I see what you mean, should work just the same as the drop counting.
may try next time, but the base standard is in a eyedropper bottle
already, so ;-)

ST

Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Steve

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Herbert E. Plett"
<cachureos@...> wrote:
>
> --- William Kroyer <william.kroyer@...> wrote:
>
>
> > ... but I'm guessing it's "reguvinated" by simply adding
> > more HCl or H2O2.
>
> in other words: you are pouring more 'pure' etchant into the
weakened solution!
>

Sort of... CuCl obviously has copper in it already. I think it's
CuCL2, stick copper in it and it pulls off copper to be come two CuCL.
Add HCl and the Clorine grabs onto the CuCl to become CuCl2 again. I
think the hydrogen just bubbles out.

You do end up with more CuCL2 etchant, so it does grow, but you are
not just adding more etchant, you are rejuvinating it.

I could be mistaken, but I think that if you add H202 or bubble air
through it, the oxygen grabs a copper away from CuCl, the extra
Chlorine grabs a nearby CuCl to become CuCl2 again, and I think the
oxidized copper comes out of solution and sinks. If you use a bubbler
to add oxygen, it shouldn't breed any new etchant. Same with H202,
except it probably becomes more watered down as no new CuCL2 is bred.
The H202 leaves H20 and no new CuCl2, just the old rejuvinated.

I think? Am I close, anyone?

Sounds like Sourdough bread.

Steve Greenfield

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Blue CuCl etchant...

2006-05-03 by Stefan Trethan

On Wed, 03 May 2006 20:48:38 +0200, Steve <alienrelics@...> wrote:

> and I think the
>
> oxidized copper comes out of solution and sinks.


It doesn't, for me. copper coming out i mean.

Something like that what you said is happening, yes. I'm not good at
chemistry but the oxygen in the H2O2 or air combines with the hydrogen
from HCl and leaves Cl to make CuCl2 from Cu2Cl2 (or something like that,
the green stuff from the brown stuff anyway).
Because you could also regenerate CuCl with chlorine gas (if you are keen
on fatal accidents). So my thinking is the HCl and H2O2 is really only
delivering chlorine atoms.

The growth of CuCl is very slow, if you only do a couple of boards every
now and then almost not noticeable.
You could try to reduce growth by electroplating the copper out, i tried
that a while ago with carbon electrodes and a wire to plate onto. It
works, but it is difficult to avoid chlorine bubbles forming on the
electrode (which is what is happening because you take the copper away
from CuCl i assume). The chlorine should not build a gas, it should grab
hold of some copper from the brown stuff to form two green stuff, but
that's not always happening apparently. maybe something like the apparatus
used by fishkeepers to dissolve CO2 into water would help. basically a
tube filled with marbles through which water is pumped, downwards. On the
bottom a very small stream of CO2 bubbles is introduced. As they rise
against the current and bump into the marbles the gas is dissolved. One
should be able to set this up with a electrode at the bottom fairly
easily, but since the growth is really so slow i never bothered to even
try.

ST