Homebrew PCBs

Hola,

I read in a few articles that Staples 471861 Photo paper is a favorite
of more than a few people for PCB toner transfer.  I don't have a
Staples nearby, so what other brands of paper are you using with
perfect results?  I'm just curious.  I can always order the Staples
paper from their site, but I wanted a few other opinions.

And I just ordered a Samsung ML-2010 printer.  I also read that more
than a few people have good luck with that printer, too.

TIA...

$11.24 CDN for a 30/Pack, interesting.

I have a Bureau En Gros nearby, French version of Staples.  I'll check this
out, definitely faster to get than Pulsar and cheaper.

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de snova1987a
Envoyé : avril 6 2006 14:01
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Best paper to use for toner transfer


Hola,

I read in a few articles that Staples 471861 Photo paper is a favorite of
more than a few people for PCB toner transfer.  I don't have a Staples
nearby, so what other brands of paper are you using with perfect results?
I'm just curious.  I can always order the Staples paper from their site, but
I wanted a few other opinions.

And I just ordered a Samsung ML-2010 printer.  I also read that more than a
few people have good luck with that printer, too.

TIA...









Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 20:01:21 +0200, snova1987a <snova1987a@...>  
wrote:

> Hola,
>
>
> I read in a few articles that Staples 471861 Photo paper is a favorite
>
> of more than a few people for PCB toner transfer.  I don't have a
>
> Staples nearby, so what other brands of paper are you using with
>
> perfect results?  I'm just curious.  I can always order the Staples
>
> paper from their site, but I wanted a few other opinions.
>
>
> And I just ordered a Samsung ML-2010 printer.  I also read that more
>
> than a few people have good luck with that printer, too.
>
>
> TIA...
>


There's a database section on the group homepage with a list of papers.

ST

Thanks!
  
  I ordered the Staples paper, since it's fairly cheap.

Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:  On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 20:01:21 +0200, snova1987a   
wrote:

> Hola,
>
>
> I read in a few articles that Staples 471861 Photo paper is a favorite
>
> of more than a few people for PCB toner transfer.  I don't have a
>
> Staples nearby, so what other brands of paper are you using with
>
> perfect results?  I'm just curious.  I can always order the Staples
>
> paper from their site, but I wanted a few other opinions.
>
>
> And I just ordered a Samsung ML-2010 printer.  I also read that more
>
> than a few people have good luck with that printer, too.
>
>
> TIA...
>


There's a database section on the group homepage with a list of papers.

ST


Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 





		
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low  PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

For those that will go to Staples to pick up #471861, make sure to print the
article from their web page and bring it to the store.

I did it just so I wouldn't forget the number and it was $3 more in-store.
I showed them the paper, they verified the price and charged me the lower
price.

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Jonathan Park
Envoyé : avril 6 2006 15:33
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Best paper to use for toner transfer


Thanks!
  
  I ordered the Staples paper, since it's fairly cheap.


Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 





		
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low  PC-to-Phone call
rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "snova1987a" <snova1987a@...> 
wrote:
>
> Hola,
> 
> I read in a few articles that Staples 471861 Photo paper is a 
favorite
> of more than a few people for PCB toner transfer.  I don't have a
> Staples nearby, so what other brands of paper are you using with
> perfect results?  I'm just curious.  I can always order the Staples
> paper from their site, but I wanted a few other opinions.
> 
> And I just ordered a Samsung ML-2010 printer.  I also read that more
> than a few people have good luck with that printer, too.
> 
> TIA...

A little more difficult to remove than the Staples paper (soak 
longer, and use a Dobie no-scratch sponge to remove completely) but 
makes 99% perfect transfers (only a few very tiny spots that don't 
transfer, and  only once in awhile.

HP Photo Paper - *Laser* - Glossy - 7.5 mil - 58 lb

Part # Q6608A
UPC # 8 29160 63872 0

This has the added benefit that it's designed for lasers and is less 
likely to flake or leave residue inside that may eventually wreck the 
printer.

I am looking for some recommendations for a good laser printer that's not
too expensive.
One for making PCB's and for general printing of documents too.
Are the LJ II and III good ?

Thanks
Randall
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.5/303 - Release Date: 4/6/2006

Hmmmm, just tried the Staples inkjet glossy photo paper #471861, mixed
feelings, actually, I hate it.  The toner seems to have stuck to the copper
super well, only problem is the paper didn't come off nicely.  There's still
at least a 50% thickness, even after I let it soak for a good 2 hours before
peeling.

If the laser variety of paper is even thicker and harder to take off, that
ain't gonna be funny.  I see now why we pay more for the Pulsar paper,
excellent results with no fussing around.  The paper usually comes off the
toner with less than a minute.

I don't have much choice now but to lightly scrub at this tomorrow, after
letting it soak all night.  Somehow I expect the finer traces to take a hit,
I doubt they will hold up.  And even if they do somehow stay intact, this is
too much mucking around.  At least with the Pulsar paper I know right away
if I messed up, for all I know my alignment might be off again.

Robert
:(


-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de fenrir_co
Envoyé : avril 6 2006 19:29
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Best paper to use for toner transfer


A little more difficult to remove than the Staples paper (soak 
longer, and use a Dobie no-scratch sponge to remove completely) but 
makes 99% perfect transfers (only a few very tiny spots that don't 
transfer, and  only once in awhile.

HP Photo Paper - *Laser* - Glossy - 7.5 mil - 58 lb

Part # Q6608A
UPC # 8 29160 63872 0

This has the added benefit that it's designed for lasers and is less 
likely to flake or leave residue inside that may eventually wreck the 
printer.





Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@...> 
wrote:
>
> Hmmmm, just tried the Staples inkjet glossy photo paper #471861, 
>mixed
> feelings, actually, I hate it.  The toner seems to have stuck to the 
>copper
> super well, only problem is the paper didn't come off nicely.  
>There's still
> at least a 50% thickness, even after I let it soak for a good 2 
>hours before
> peeling.
> 
> If the laser variety of paper is even thicker and harder to take 
>off, that
> ain't gonna be funny.  I see now why we pay more for the Pulsar 
>paper,
> excellent results with no fussing around.  The paper usually comes 
>off the
> toner with less than a minute.

Wow, I haven't heard any problems like this before, but I /have/ heard 
that Staples might have changed the paper. No, the HP photo paper is 
not as thick (in fact it's /far/ too thin to be used as photo paper 
and is more like brochure paper), and doesn't stand up to water too 
well. When I said 'longer', I meant 10-15 minutes rather than 5 
minutes.
 
> I don't have much choice now but to lightly scrub at this tomorrow, 
>after
> letting it soak all night.  Somehow I expect the finer traces to 
>take a hit,
> I doubt they will hold up.  And even if they do somehow stay intact, 
>this is
> too much mucking around.  At least with the Pulsar paper I know 
>right away
> if I messed up, for all I know my alignment might be off again.
> 
> Robert
> :(

With the HP Laser photo paper I could rub the paper off with my 
fingertips. This would, however, take forever, which is why I used a 
'Dobie' non-scratch sponge (safe for Teflon) and a little pressure. 
The printer I used was a commercial photocopier, a Xerox DocuColor 12. 
at Staples. I have been meaning to test it on other brands but haven't 
had a chance yet. Even the very finest parts of the pattern I used 
didn't come off unless I used a metal scraper.

I had been using Press'n'Peel before finding a laminator/paper 
combination that worked well. The laser paper is $20/100 sheets, 
20c/sheet; Press'n'peel is $30+shipping/20 sheets. Over $1 per sheet. 
To me, that's too expensive for 'experimenting' with. I checked out 
Pulsar's website quite awhile back and it looked like it might work 
better than P'n'P, but they wanted to charge outrageous shipping for 
it that would make it even more expensive than the P'n'P, so I never 
bought it. I don't know if this has changed.

Hi
No, just scrub it with a soft brush or a no-sratch pad, it will be fine.
Jeri


In a message dated 4/6/2006 10:12:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
robert.hedan@... writes:
Hmmmm, just tried the Staples inkjet glossy photo paper #471861, mixed
feelings, actually, I hate it.  The toner seems to have stuck to the copper
super well, only problem is the paper didn't come off nicely.  There's still
at least a 50% thickness, even after I let it soak for a good 2 hours before
peeling.

If the laser variety of paper is even thicker and harder to take off, that
ain't gonna be funny.  I see now why we pay more for the Pulsar paper,
excellent results with no fussing around.  The paper usually comes off the
toner with less than a minute.

I don't have much choice now but to lightly scrub at this tomorrow, after
letting it soak all night.  Somehow I expect the finer traces to take a hit,
I doubt they will hold up.  And even if they do somehow stay intact, this is
too much mucking around.  At least with the Pulsar paper I know right away
if I messed up, for all I know my alignment might be off again.

Robert
:(


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 04:16:29 +0200, Randall <rkkennard@...> wrote:

> I am looking for some recommendations for a good laser printer that's not
>
> too expensive.
>
> One for making PCB's and for general printing of documents too.
>
> Are the LJ II and III good ?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Randall

The LJIII is a great printer and all, but only 300dpi. I would look for  
600dpi or more.

ST

Randall wrote:
> I am looking for some recommendations for a good laser printer that's not
> too expensive.
> One for making PCB's and for general printing of documents too.
> Are the LJ II and III good ?
>   

Randall
    Both the LJII and LJIII are getting a bit on the old side.  I am 
starting to see some of the newest OSs
that do not support legacy printers.  I got my LJ4 on its way to the 
dumpster due to paper jams.
A local shop that does nothing but printer repairs and toner refills, 
replaced all the rubber parts in the
paper path for $50.  It is 600dpi and solid as a rock.

I would look for a used LJ2100/2200 - both do 1200dpi and will be 
supported for several more years.
For support you can't beat HP - I can always get parts and supplies.

If you do find a LJII or LJIII for free, grab it but don't spend over 
$100 including toner, to make it work.

John
WA8KNE

Randall

I have 3 OLD LjIII's and I got sick of nursing them.  They were all 
in need of toner cartridges and tlc ( error 50,, replace triacs in 
power supply? Anyone in Eastern PA or NJ want them come get them!!!)  
I just don't have the time for them anymore.

I bought a Samsung ML-2250 from Newegg and got it for $99 delivered ( 
after $50 rebate).  I love it.  My daughter uses it for reports and 
we save a lot on color injet ink.  

It's a bit noisy when getting warmed up but it is fast!!!

Not being native postscript is a drawback.. I had to mess with the 
eagle EPS file to get Ghostview to print a properly scaled printout.

But now that I have a "system"  it works very well.

see the board I did with it in the photos section under davelandnni

Just my 2 cents

dave





 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, John Young <wa8kne@...> wrote:
>
> Randall wrote:
> > I am looking for some recommendations for a good laser printer 
that's not
> > too expensive.
> > One for making PCB's and for general printing of documents too.
> > Are the LJ II and III good ?
> >   
> 
> Randall
>     Both the LJII and LJIII are getting a bit on the old side.  I 
am 
> starting to see some of the newest OSs
> that do not support legacy printers.  I got my LJ4 on its way to 
the 
> dumpster due to paper jams.
> A local shop that does nothing but printer repairs and toner 
refills, 
> replaced all the rubber parts in the
> paper path for $50.  It is 600dpi and solid as a rock.
> 
> I would look for a used LJ2100/2200 - both do 1200dpi and will be 
> supported for several more years.
> For support you can't beat HP - I can always get parts and supplies.
> 
> If you do find a LJII or LJIII for free, grab it but don't spend 
over 

> $100 including toner, to make it work.
> 
> John
> WA8KNE
>

3 OLD LjIII's = 3 nice step motors + plenty of parts.
  :)))

davelandnni <daveland@...> wrote:
  Randall

I have 3 OLD LjIII's and I got sick of nursing them.  They were all 
in need of toner cartridges and tlc ( error 50,, replace triacs in 
power supply? Anyone in Eastern PA or NJ want them come get them!!!)  
I just don't have the time for them anymore.


		
---------------------------------
Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Well, thanks all for the replies.

I happened to be in a computer store today and they had the HP 1320 on sale
for $250, after $50 rebate. As my HP 312C DeskJet was having personal
problems and because the 1320 in the one my wife uses at her work, she said
it was a good printer, I went ahead and bought one.

Thanks again
Randall

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of guja
  Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 5:52 PM
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Recommendation for Laser printer


  3 OLD LjIII's = 3 nice step motors + plenty of parts.
    :)))

  davelandnni <daveland@...> wrote:
    Randall

  I have 3 OLD LjIII's and I got sick of nursing them.  They were all
  in need of toner cartridges and tlc ( error 50,, replace triacs in
  power supply? Anyone in Eastern PA or NJ want them come get them!!!)
  I just don't have the time for them anymore.



  ---------------------------------
  Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo!
Messenger with Voice.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

  If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
  YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

    a..  Visit your group "Homebrew_PCBs" on the web.

    b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
     Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

    c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.0/304 - Release Date: 4/7/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Update:

Well, it's been sitting in water for over 2 days now.  I used a thin teflon
knife (looks like plastic) to scrape the paper.  It's slow moving, but it
comes off.  I have some of that 'surface glue' here and there, but 99% of
the paper is gone.

None of the traces were damaged seriously and the toner is stuck onto the
copper.  There's a few spots of toner gone, but nothing I would consider
significant; most likely came off during scraping.  I'm letting it sit in
water a little longer and then I'll clean up the remaining glue.  After that
I'll have to drill a few holes and see if the alignment remained intact.

This paper is too much work though, even if the results are perfect.  This
takes way too much time, hopefully the paper for lasers will give better
results.  But right now, I'm going to try and make something out of this
PCB.

Robert
:)





-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Robert Hedan
Envoyé : avril 6 2006 23:12
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Best paper to use for toner transfer


Hmmmm, just tried the Staples inkjet glossy photo paper #471861, mixed
feelings, actually, I hate it.  The toner seems to have stuck to the copper
super well, only problem is the paper didn't come off nicely.  There's still
at least a 50% thickness, even after I let it soak for a good 2 hours before
peeling.

...

Robert
:(



Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links

--- Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@...> wrote:

> Well, it's been sitting in water for over 2 days
> now.

The method I use, is put the PCB with the glossy paper
in a borosil container and heat the water.

After 5 minutes, with the water almost boiling, por in
some liquid detergent/soap.

About 5 minutes later, some of the paper should just
peel off ! Remove the remaining paper by gently
brusing with a soft brush.

I have often been able to directly peel off the glossy
paper off the boards after heating with an iron for
10mins, without damaging any tracks. But this does not
give consistent results.

This method I just described, takes just 10 - 20
minutes, depending on board size.

> This paper is too much work though, even if the
> results are perfect.  This
> takes way too much time, hopefully the paper for
> lasers will give better
> results.

Can you try using plain tracing paper ? Altough I did
not try myself, I have heard that it peels off better
in soapy water.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com

have you rubbed with a sponge?

Even most of the plastic-like surface papers that seems to have a  
transparent glue layer sticking to the board were easy to remove by  
rubbing. But not all would work though.

I found that the "glue" layer papers seem better at the highest  
resolutions where the "clay" layer papers seem to produce more jagged  
edges (i believe due to unevenness of the surface).

There's clearly something wrong, soaking it for two days is way out of  
normal. I only leave it in a few minutes.

ST


On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 19:33:00 +0200, Robert Hedan  
<robert.hedan@...> wrote:

> Update:
>
>
> Well, it's been sitting in water for over 2 days now.  I used a thin  
> teflon
>
> knife (looks like plastic) to scrape the paper.  It's slow moving, but it
>
> comes off.  I have some of that 'surface glue' here and there, but 99% of
>
> the paper is gone.
>
>
> None of the traces were damaged seriously and the toner is stuck onto the
>
> copper.  There's a few spots of toner gone, but nothing I would consider
>
> significant; most likely came off during scraping.  I'm letting it sit in
>
> water a little longer and then I'll clean up the remaining glue.  After  
> that
>
> I'll have to drill a few holes and see if the alignment remained intact.
>
>
> This paper is too much work though, even if the results are perfect.   
> This
>
> takes way too much time, hopefully the paper for lasers will give better
>
> results.  But right now, I'm going to try and make something out of this
>
> PCB.
>
>
> Robert
>
>
>
>

I didn't try a brush yet.  That's how I'm going to clean up the rest.

I had passed it many times through the laminator.  I didn't know how well
this product would stick so it got heated a LOT, I wanted to be sure the
toner transferred.  I think I cooked that glossy finish onto the PCB at the
same time.

The near-boiling water idea scares me a bit.  Toner reacts to heat, wouldn't
putting the PCB in hot water possibly unstick the toner?

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Stefan Trethan
Envoyé : avril 9 2006 13:54
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Best paper to use for toner transfer


...

There's clearly something wrong, soaking it for two days is way out of  
normal. I only leave it in a few minutes.

ST

...

On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 20:27:12 +0200, Robert Hedan  
<robert.hedan@...> wrote:

> I didn't try a brush yet.  That's how I'm going to clean up the rest.


Yes, but did you rub, quite forcefully, with a sponge or your finger?

ST

Has anyone tried Goof Off ?

Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Robert Hedan
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 10:33 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Best paper to use for toner transfer

Update:

Well, it's been sitting in water for over 2 days now.  I used a thin teflon
knife (looks like plastic) to scrape the paper.  It's slow moving, but it
comes off.  I have some of that 'surface glue' here and there, but 99% of
the paper is gone.

None of the traces were damaged seriously and the toner is stuck onto the
copper.  There's a few spots of toner gone, but nothing I would consider
significant; most likely came off during scraping.  I'm letting it sit in
water a little longer and then I'll clean up the remaining glue.  After that
I'll have to drill a few holes and see if the alignment remained intact.

This paper is too much work though, even if the results are perfect.  This
takes way too much time, hopefully the paper for lasers will give better
results.  But right now, I'm going to try and make something out of this
PCB.

Robert
:)





-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Robert Hedan Envoyé : avril 6 2006 23:12 À :
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Best paper to use
for toner transfer


Hmmmm, just tried the Staples inkjet glossy photo paper #471861, mixed
feelings, actually, I hate it.  The toner seems to have stuck to the copper
super well, only problem is the paper didn't come off nicely.  There's still
at least a 50% thickness, even after I let it soak for a good 2 hours before
peeling.

...

Robert
:(



Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
Yahoo! Groups Links

I just tried a wet sponge and only a few speckles of glue are left, nothing
of importance.  Some more speckles of toner did come off in the islands, but
it won't matter.  One of the traces got damaged, but I can easily fix it
later with a jumper.

I just did a quick check with a caliper and the sides seemed to have
remained aligned.  I'm going to go etch it and see how it comes out.

Robert
:)




-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Stefan Trethan
Envoyé : avril 9 2006 14:39
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Best paper to use for toner transfer



Yes, but did you rub, quite forcefully, with a sponge or your finger?

ST

On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 20:44:42 +0200, Robert Hedan  
<robert.hedan@...> wrote:

> I just tried a wet sponge and only a few speckles of glue are left,  
> nothing
>
> of importance.  Some more speckles of toner did come off in the islands,  
> but
>
> it won't matter.  One of the traces got damaged, but I can easily fix it
>
> later with a jumper.
>
>
> I just did a quick check with a caliper and the sides seemed to have
>
> remained aligned.  I'm going to go etch it and see how it comes out.
>
>
> Robert


Well, at least you'll have something you can use, it looks like.

But there's definitely much opportunity for things getting easier ;-)

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James M. \(Jim\) Geidl" 
<jgeidl@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone tried Goof Off ?
> 
> Jim
> 
> 

Regular Goof Off is too harsh and will dissolve the toner (it contains 
some of the components of lacquer thinner). Goof Off 2, for Latex 
paints might work, since it's less likely to attack the toner. Unless 
you were thinking of Goo Gone, which is different.

I had forgotten to mention before that I also used dishwashing 
detergent (Automatic detergent, Cascade, not hand detergent like Dawn) 
in the water to remove the paper more easily. I used room temperature 
tap water. It /did/ seem to make it easier to remove the laser paper. 
Not sure about inkjet.

Both sides were practically perfectly aligned.  YAY!!!

It's tinned (sloppy job, have to redo it tomorrow), drilled and ready to get
silkscreened.  I hope my Mouser order arrives tomorrow so I can finish
assembly.

I've started using a <container within a container> for etching; hot water
in the larger container, a bit of etchant in the floating smaller one.  I
have to be a bit careful not to spill the etchant into the water, but it
works really fast.

I used to have to pass that green scrub pad a LOT of times to etch 1 oz.
PCBs when I used room temperature etchant.  Now it's done in under a minute,
I think (didn't time it), with very little scubbing, it's more like a wiping
action to clear the surface of used etchant.  Once the copper is all gone, I
just drop the PCB into the water to neutralize the etchant.

Then I pour the etchant into my 'used' tank and plop the small container in
the water too.  I rinse the PCB, gloves, container and pad in the water,
very convenient setup, no moving across multiple containers, no more
dripping everywhere.  And it's warm too, great for the hands.  :D

I've been using ferric chloride with very good results.  I store it in a
large jug (a 4 liter container of Slushie colouring).  The used etchant goes
into a large laundry soap jug, very large screw caps, easy to pour into.
All containers and jugs are plastic.

Once I finish the ferric chloride I'm moving over to ammonium persulfate (I
think that's what I bought).  I'm told it has less vapours and clear colour,
easy to observe the etching.

Robert
:)




-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Robert Hedan
Envoyé : avril 9 2006 13:33
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Best paper to use for toner transfer


...  But right now, I'm going to try and make something out of this PCB.

Robert
:)