Homebrew_PCBs

----- Original Message -----
From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 8:22 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> Ok,
>
> Now I have my chemicals and PCB etc, it's time to experiment with making
> the
> boards.
>
> I'm using photo resist and developer etc - should I just experiment with
> times or does somebody have a good suggestion.

The development is easy, just make sure you have the right concentration and
you can see when the resist has been removed - it turns purple in the
solution. It only takes about 30 seconds or so for me with NaOH.

For the UV exposure you need to experiment. Best way is to use a technique
like the test strip used in photography and make a test pattern. Put the
pattern and PCB in the UV exposure unit and move a cardboard mask across
every minute and see what exposure gives the best results. I use 13 minutes
but I've only got two tubes and they are quite far from the glass.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

----- Original Message -----
From: "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 8:22 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB
>
>
>> Ok,
>>
>> Now I have my chemicals and PCB etc, it's time to experiment with making
>> the
>> boards.
>>
>> I'm using photo resist and developer etc - should I just experiment with
>> times or does somebody have a good suggestion.
>
> The development is easy, just make sure you have the right concentration
> and
> you can see when the resist has been removed - it turns purple in the
> solution. It only takes about 30 seconds or so for me with NaOH.
>
> For the UV exposure you need to experiment. Best way is to use a technique
> like the test strip used in photography and make a test pattern. Put the
> pattern and PCB in the UV exposure unit and move a cardboard mask across
> every minute and see what exposure gives the best results. I use 13
> minutes
> but I've only got two tubes and they are quite far from the glass.
>
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller, G1HSM
> leon.heller@...
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.4/299 - Release Date: 03/31/06
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> Cheers,
>
> My resist is green and I have found that 9 minutes is getting close.
> Some areas are really good with well defined tracks, some areas are still
> lost in the green haze.
> More practice I guess.

Make sure that the PCB material is fresh - the resist can deteriorate if it
is old stock, and it won't work properly. I find it starts to go off if I
keep it longer than six months or so.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

----- Original Message -----
From: "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB
>
>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> My resist is green and I have found that 9 minutes is getting close.
>> Some areas are really good with well defined tracks, some areas are still
>> lost in the green haze.
>> More practice I guess.
>
> Make sure that the PCB material is fresh - the resist can deteriorate if
> it
> is old stock, and it won't work properly. I find it starts to go off if I
> keep it longer than six months or so.
>
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller, G1HSM
> leon.heller@...
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.4/299 - Release Date: 03/31/06
>
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> Thanks for that, this should be fresh as I just brought it but who knows
> how
> long it's been sitting on RS's shelf.
> Another thing I thought of is that it had not dried properly.
> I have another set of practice boards curing overnight that I will play
> with
> tomorrow.
>
> Is there a better etchant than Ferric Chloride?
> Will I ever get some sleep?

Are you using pre-coated boards or coating them yourself?

The uneven etching due to resist remaining after development is a sign that
it might be old stock, if the boards are pre-coated. Is RS Radio Shack or RS
in the UK? The latter will be OK.

You don't need to dry the boards after development, just rinse them well
and put them straight in the etchant. I use ferric chloride because it can
be re-used many times,unlike ammonium or sodium perchlorate.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

---
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> Are you using pre-coated boards or coating them yourself?
>
> The uneven etching due to resist remaining after development is a sign
> that
> it might be old stock, if the boards are pre-coated. Is RS Radio Shack or
> RS
> in the UK? The latter will be OK.
>
> You don't need to dry the boards after development, just rinse them well
> and put them straight in the etchant. I use ferric chloride because it can
> be re-used many times,unlike ammonium or sodium perchlorate.
>
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller, G1HSM
> leon.heller@...
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
>
> ---
> [This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility
> to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
> currently using to read this email. ]
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.4/299 - Release Date: 03/31/06
>
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> I'm in New Zealand so it RS probably Australian stock and its the spray on
> stuff from a can although I might try the pre coated boards.

I've never been able to get that spray-on resist to work! It was OK until
they changed the formula a few years ago. The pre-coated boards will work
much better.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

---
[This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility
to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 7:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB
>
>
>> I'm in New Zealand so it RS probably Australian stock and its the spray
>> on
>> stuff from a can although I might try the pre coated boards.
>
> I've never been able to get that spray-on resist to work! It was OK until
> they changed the formula a few years ago. The pre-coated boards will work
> much better.
>
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller, G1HSM
> leon.heller@...
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
>
> ---
> [This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility
> to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
> currently using to read this email. ]
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.4/299 - Release Date: 03/31/06
>
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "LogicResearch" <logicresearch@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> Hi again.
>
> Well so much for that - I was going to continue trying to get a good
> development but I might as well try something else as I need to get some
> PCBs made soon.
> I have just finished an email to a knowledgeable fellow, to whom I
> admitted
> that the new photoresist from RS may as well have been a can of whipped
> cream for all the good it does.
>
> The reason I am back here again is that I have found (whilst looking for
> Riston PCB's) Press 'n' Peel film.
> Simply (as they say) copy or print the artwork onto this film with a laser
> printer, Iron onto the blank PCB, peel off the film, and etch - simple.
>
> Has anyone used this before and is it as good as they say?

Some people get good results, with a lot of messing about with heated
laminators. I've never been able to get it to work properly, using an
ordinary clothes iron.

>
> Also I see another chemical, Ammonium Persulphate, that I have never
> used -
> anyone use this and does it have any advantages over Ferric Chloride?

It's a lot cleaner as the solution is colourless, and the board is visible
during etching. It won't keep when made up, fresh solution has to be used
each time.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

> The reason I am back here again is that I have found (whilst looking for
>
> Riston PCB's) Press 'n' Peel film.
>
> Simply (as they say) copy or print the artwork onto this film with a
> laser
>
> printer, Iron onto the blank PCB, peel off the film, and etch - simple.
>
>
> Has anyone used this before and is it as good as they say?

> Also I see another chemical, Ammonium Persulphate, that I have never
> used -
>
> anyone use this and does it have any advantages over Ferric Chloride?

> I don't use press and peel, i use inkjet paper which
> has a special coating
> that easily releases the toner.
> Many use this method here with great results, it's
> called toner transfer.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kamal Shankar" <kbshankar2000@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making the PCB


> --- Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
>
>> I don't use press and peel, i use inkjet paper which
>> has a special coating
>> that easily releases the toner.
>> Many use this method here with great results, it's
>> called toner transfer.
>
> I knew about TonerTransfer method using laser printer
> (just bought some glossy paper and printed the traces,
> iron and done)
>
> But does this work for Inkjet too ?
>
> Since you have done it, can you please tell me what
> brand of special paper you use ?
>
> Also, how consistent are the results and what's the
> minimum track width & clearance you can manage using
> the inkjet ?

Inkjets don't work for TT. I use one for making transparencies for the
conventional PCB technique and don't have any problems with 8/8 mil design
rules.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

---
[This E-mail has been scanned for viruses but it is your responsibility
to maintain up to date anti virus software on the device that you are
currently using to read this email. ]

> I knew about TonerTransfer method using laser printer
>
> (just bought some glossy paper and printed the traces,
>
> iron and done)
>
>
> But does this work for Inkjet too ?
>
>
> Since you have done it, can you please tell me what
>
> brand of special paper you use ?
>
>
> Also, how consistent are the results and what's the
>
> minimum track width & clearance you can manage using
>
> the inkjet ?