HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-21 by alan00463
Does anybody know if a HP LaserJet Series II
would be good for laminating toner transfer ?
would be good for laminating toner transfer ?
Thread
HP LaserJet Series II
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-21 by Henry Carl Ott
At 09:43 AM 3/21/2006, you wrote:
transfer papers over the years
It has the same print engine as the II, so I should expect pretty much
the same results.
The LJ-II does not have resolution enhancement, so perhaps it might not
be quite as good on really fine lines (< 10mills), but you are likely to
have issues with very fine details on ANY 300 dpi printer like the
LJ-II/III. That said, I've still done some really hairy fine pitch smd
successfully.
I do experience the standard problem with filling very large contiguous
black areas. No big deal.
carl
--------------------------------------------------------
Henry Carl Ott N2RVQ
http://users.rcn.com/carlott/
--------------------------------------------------------
>Does anybody know if a HP LaserJet Series III use an LJ-III all the time with pretty good success. All different
>would be good for laminating toner transfer ?
transfer papers over the years
It has the same print engine as the II, so I should expect pretty much
the same results.
The LJ-II does not have resolution enhancement, so perhaps it might not
be quite as good on really fine lines (< 10mills), but you are likely to
have issues with very fine details on ANY 300 dpi printer like the
LJ-II/III. That said, I've still done some really hairy fine pitch smd
successfully.
I do experience the standard problem with filling very large contiguous
black areas. No big deal.
carl
--------------------------------------------------------
Henry Carl Ott N2RVQ
http://users.rcn.com/carlott/
--------------------------------------------------------
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-21 by Stefan Trethan
I used a IIID for a while.
Did work well with HP toner, the cheap remanufactured one wouldn't.
Switched to a 600 DPI printer because the IIID wouldn't do the 0.5mm QFN
packages too well.
Anyone gutting a II or III HP with good paper pickup rollers - let me know
;-)
ST
On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 17:17:48 +0100, Henry Carl Ott <carlott@...>
wrote:
Did work well with HP toner, the cheap remanufactured one wouldn't.
Switched to a 600 DPI printer because the IIID wouldn't do the 0.5mm QFN
packages too well.
Anyone gutting a II or III HP with good paper pickup rollers - let me know
;-)
ST
On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 17:17:48 +0100, Henry Carl Ott <carlott@...>
wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I use an LJ-III all the time with pretty good success. All different
>
> transfer papers over the years
>
> It has the same print engine as the II, so I should expect pretty much
>
> the same results.
>
> The LJ-II does not have resolution enhancement, so perhaps it might not
>
> be quite as good on really fine lines (< 10mills), but you are likely to
>
> have issues with very fine details on ANY 300 dpi printer like the
>
> LJ-II/III. That said, I've still done some really hairy fine pitch smd
>
> successfully.
>
>
> I do experience the standard problem with filling very large contiguous
>
> black areas. No big deal.
>
>
>
>
> carl
Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by kilocycles
Boy, I sure lament the fact that I literally gave away my HP LJ IIIP
and bought the Brother 2040, thinking it would be better with the much
higher resolution. Of course, what I paid for it was not much more
than the price of the toner cartridge the IIIP needed, but now that I
know what the Brother doesn't do well (toner transfer), I'd gladly pay
the price!
By the way, the resolution enhancement technology on the IIIP anyway
was just for the fonts. Graphics were generally pretty blocky-looking.
Ted KX4OM
and bought the Brother 2040, thinking it would be better with the much
higher resolution. Of course, what I paid for it was not much more
than the price of the toner cartridge the IIIP needed, but now that I
know what the Brother doesn't do well (toner transfer), I'd gladly pay
the price!
By the way, the resolution enhancement technology on the IIIP anyway
was just for the fonts. Graphics were generally pretty blocky-looking.
Ted KX4OM
Show quoted textHide quoted text
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Henry Carl Ott <carlott@...> wrote:
>
> At 09:43 AM 3/21/2006, you wrote:
> >Does anybody know if a HP LaserJet Series II
> >would be good for laminating toner transfer ?
>
> I use an LJ-III all the time with pretty good success. All different
> transfer papers over the years
> It has the same print engine as the II, so I should expect pretty
much
> the same results.
> The LJ-II does not have resolution enhancement, so perhaps it
might not
> be quite as good on really fine lines (< 10mills), but you are
likely to
> have issues with very fine details on ANY 300 dpi printer like the
> LJ-II/III. That said, I've still done some really hairy fine pitch smd
> successfully.
>
> I do experience the standard problem with filling very large
contiguous
> black areas. No big deal.
>
>
>
> carl
>
> --------------------------------------------------------
> Henry Carl Ott N2RVQ
> http://users.rcn.com/carlott/
> --------------------------------------------------------
>
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Henry Carl Ott
At 10:01 PM 3/21/2006, you wrote:
difference anyway. You really want sharp clean edges for the traces and I
think the RET worked by modifying dot size or dithering. Don't think we'd
want either of these.
The HP LJ-II/IIIs are tanks that just keep working (well, after you
replace the triac in the power supply controller they do).
I do like that a lot of the parts swap between the II & III. The P series
never seemed to be as robust, or as easy to repair (but they were cheap &
worked pretty good for TT).
When I worked in Manhattan, I'd see HP LJs being thrown in the garbage
outside of offices all the time. I usually could not grab the whole printer
(a little too heavy to easily commute home with), but since I always have
my trusty screwdriver on me....
I would crack these babies open quicker then a steamed two pound Maine
lobster and grab the fuser, hv power block, and any other spare parts I
could toss in my work bag. Sometimes they would even have a half full toner
cartridge.
Figure I'll run out of places to buy toner before I run out of spare parts.
-carl
>By the way, the resolution enhancement technology on the IIIP anywayI think you are right about the RET. Not sure it would make too much a
>was just for the fonts. Graphics were generally pretty blocky-looking.
>
>Ted KX4OM
>
difference anyway. You really want sharp clean edges for the traces and I
think the RET worked by modifying dot size or dithering. Don't think we'd
want either of these.
The HP LJ-II/IIIs are tanks that just keep working (well, after you
replace the triac in the power supply controller they do).
I do like that a lot of the parts swap between the II & III. The P series
never seemed to be as robust, or as easy to repair (but they were cheap &
worked pretty good for TT).
When I worked in Manhattan, I'd see HP LJs being thrown in the garbage
outside of offices all the time. I usually could not grab the whole printer
(a little too heavy to easily commute home with), but since I always have
my trusty screwdriver on me....
I would crack these babies open quicker then a steamed two pound Maine
lobster and grab the fuser, hv power block, and any other spare parts I
could toss in my work bag. Sometimes they would even have a half full toner
cartridge.
Figure I'll run out of places to buy toner before I run out of spare parts.
-carl
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Alan Marconett
Hi Carl,
Do you by chance know what a "50" error code would be for an HP LaserJet
Series II? I have a printer in really good shape that I'd like to get going
again. Or maybe you've discovered a service manual URL?
I've taken apart a few HP printers in that series, so I HAVE some parts!
Thanks,
Alan KM6VV
Do you by chance know what a "50" error code would be for an HP LaserJet
Series II? I have a printer in really good shape that I'd like to get going
again. Or maybe you've discovered a service manual URL?
I've taken apart a few HP printers in that series, so I HAVE some parts!
Thanks,
Alan KM6VV
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> At 10:01 PM 3/21/2006, you wrote:
>
> >By the way, the resolution enhancement technology on the IIIP anyway
> >was just for the fonts. Graphics were generally pretty blocky-looking.
> >
> >Ted KX4OM
> >
>
> I think you are right about the RET. Not sure it would make too much a
> difference anyway. You really want sharp clean edges for the traces and I
> think the RET worked by modifying dot size or dithering. Don't think we'd
> want either of these.
>
> The HP LJ-II/IIIs are tanks that just keep working (well, after you
> replace the triac in the power supply controller they do).
>
> I do like that a lot of the parts swap between the II & III. The P
> series
> never seemed to be as robust, or as easy to repair (but they were cheap &
> worked pretty good for TT).
>
> When I worked in Manhattan, I'd see HP LJs being thrown in the garbage
> outside of offices all the time. I usually could not grab the whole
> printer
> (a little too heavy to easily commute home with), but since I always have
> my trusty screwdriver on me....
>
> I would crack these babies open quicker then a steamed two pound Maine
> lobster and grab the fuser, hv power block, and any other spare parts I
> could toss in my work bag. Sometimes they would even have a half full
> toner
> cartridge.
>
> Figure I'll run out of places to buy toner before I run out of spare
> parts.
>
> -carl
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Henry Carl Ott
At 12:38 PM 3/22/2006, you wrote:
I always used these guys:
http://www.all-laser.com/
But the link on their page to the 50 error seems broken.
another link
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/printfaq/pcfljiiiec50.htm
If I remember correctly error 50 is exactly what I mentioned in my last post.
95% of the time, the triac that power the fuser lamp in the power control
module (the cube where ac comes into the printer) is blown. Remove the
screws around the module and it just unplugs from the printer base. You do
have to remove the printer cover first.
You can replace the triac with almost any sensitive gate triac that has
the volts and amp rating. I've been known to buy the highest voltage
to-220 package triac that radio shack had on the shelf for an emergency
repair. That printer is probably still working.
If you have spare parts, try just swapping the power cube and see if the
problem goes away. Then you can take your time fixing the module.
-carl
>Hi Carl,There are a lot of resources online:
>
>Do you by chance know what a "50" error code would be for an HP LaserJet
>Series II? I have a printer in really good shape that I'd like to get going
>again. Or maybe you've discovered a service manual URL?
>
>I've taken apart a few HP printers in that series, so I HAVE some parts!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Alan KM6VV
I always used these guys:
http://www.all-laser.com/
But the link on their page to the 50 error seems broken.
another link
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/printfaq/pcfljiiiec50.htm
If I remember correctly error 50 is exactly what I mentioned in my last post.
95% of the time, the triac that power the fuser lamp in the power control
module (the cube where ac comes into the printer) is blown. Remove the
screws around the module and it just unplugs from the printer base. You do
have to remove the printer cover first.
You can replace the triac with almost any sensitive gate triac that has
the volts and amp rating. I've been known to buy the highest voltage
to-220 package triac that radio shack had on the shelf for an emergency
repair. That printer is probably still working.
If you have spare parts, try just swapping the power cube and see if the
problem goes away. Then you can take your time fixing the module.
-carl
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Alan Marconett
HI Carl,
THANKS! That's what I was looking for!
Alan KM6VV
THANKS! That's what I was looking for!
Alan KM6VV
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> On Behalf Of Henry Carl Ott
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
>
> At 12:38 PM 3/22/2006, you wrote:
> >Hi Carl,
> >
> >Do you by chance know what a "50" error code would be for an HP LaserJet
> >Series II? I have a printer in really good shape that I'd like to get
> going
> >again. Or maybe you've discovered a service manual URL?
> >
> >I've taken apart a few HP printers in that series, so I HAVE some parts!
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Alan KM6VV
>
>
> There are a lot of resources online:
> I always used these guys:
> http://www.all-laser.com/
> But the link on their page to the 50 error seems broken.
> another link
> http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/printfaq/pcfljiiiec50.htm
>
>
> If I remember correctly error 50 is exactly what I mentioned in my last
> post.
> 95% of the time, the triac that power the fuser lamp in the power control
> module (the cube where ac comes into the printer) is blown. Remove the
> screws around the module and it just unplugs from the printer base. You do
> have to remove the printer cover first.
>
> You can replace the triac with almost any sensitive gate triac that has
> the volts and amp rating. I've been known to buy the highest voltage
> to-220 package triac that radio shack had on the shelf for an emergency
> repair. That printer is probably still working.
>
> If you have spare parts, try just swapping the power cube and see if the
> problem goes away. Then you can take your time fixing the module.
>
> -carl
>
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Stefan Trethan
I think the service manual is here:
<http://www.eserviceinfo.com/>
Mine has a dead PSU, it wouldn't come alive no matter how hard i tried. I
made a wooden box under it and put in the supply from a copier, hooked up
with wires, works again. Most caps were dry in the supply, replaced them,
but there is some falut still i didn't find.
ST
<http://www.eserviceinfo.com/>
Mine has a dead PSU, it wouldn't come alive no matter how hard i tried. I
made a wooden box under it and put in the supply from a copier, hooked up
with wires, works again. Most caps were dry in the supply, replaced them,
but there is some falut still i didn't find.
ST
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:38:08 +0100, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...> wrote:
> Hi Carl,
>
>
> Do you by chance know what a "50" error code would be for an HP LaserJet
>
> Series II? I have a printer in really good shape that I'd like to get
> going
>
> again. Or maybe you've discovered a service manual URL?
>
>
> I've taken apart a few HP printers in that series, so I HAVE some parts!
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Alan KM6VV
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Alan Marconett
HI Stefan,
Looks like a good resource, but I was unable to unzip the rar files with
WinRar.
Alan KM6VV
Looks like a good resource, but I was unable to unzip the rar files with
WinRar.
Alan KM6VV
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> I think the service manual is here:
>
> <http://www.eserviceinfo.com/>
>
> Mine has a dead PSU, it wouldn't come alive no matter how hard i tried. I
> made a wooden box under it and put in the supply from a copier, hooked up
> with wires, works again. Most caps were dry in the supply, replaced them,
> but there is some falut still i didn't find.
>
> ST
>
Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by alan00463
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "alan00463" <alan00463@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>I should have been more specific in asking about this
> Does anybody know if a HP LaserJet Series II
> would be good for laminating toner transfer ?
printer. I doubt it still prints. What I was wonder-
ing was this:
If somebody tossed the printer because the printing
mechanism stopped working for some reason, could I still
use the machine to laminate toner transfer paper?--forget
about printing. In other words, could I still use it as a
laminator rather than buy a laminator? Assuming the roller
still gets hot or will after I replace the triac and/or fuse.
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Stefan Trethan
Might be a archive consisting of multiple files.
I believe it worked for me with winrar back then, did you have all parts
of the archive?
ST
I believe it worked for me with winrar back then, did you have all parts
of the archive?
ST
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:16:27 +0100, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...> wrote:
> HI Stefan,
>
>
> Looks like a good resource, but I was unable to unzip the rar files with
>
> WinRar.
>
>
> Alan KM6VV
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Stefan Trethan
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I should have been more specific in asking about thisThe IIID has a fuser unit that could potentially be used, so i guess the
>
> printer. I doubt it still prints. What I was wonder-
>
> ing was this:
>
>
> If somebody tossed the printer because the printing
>
> mechanism stopped working for some reason, could I still
>
> use the machine to laminate toner transfer paper?--forget
>
> about printing. In other words, could I still use it as a
>
> laminator rather than buy a laminator? Assuming the roller
>
> still gets hot or will after I replace the triac and/or fuse.
II will be similar.
I prefer the fuser out of a copier, since it is larger and has a handwheel
for manual advancing, but i don't see why the HP II fuser unit shouldn't
work. I haven't inspected the spring/distance mechanism of it, but if it
is built like the rest of the printer you can probably feed through a
populated PCB without damage ;-)
You will want to have the triac control for the fuser, i think it is
located in the AC PSU module.
ST
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Alan Marconett
HI Alan 00,
Sorry if I sidetracked the thread!
Were you going to use pieces of the printer? Or were you wanting to FEED
the board and transfer paper through the printer?
Interesting idea. I wonder if I've got any more printers awaiting
demolition?
I doubt if you could "feed" anything through if you have the '50' error.
Mine doesn't.
If it's hot, then I guess it's hot! Maybe you can take control of the drive
motor, remove the path past the drum, and get a straight shot past the
fuser? Might be a little work! ;>)
Alan KM6VV
Sorry if I sidetracked the thread!
Were you going to use pieces of the printer? Or were you wanting to FEED
the board and transfer paper through the printer?
Interesting idea. I wonder if I've got any more printers awaiting
demolition?
I doubt if you could "feed" anything through if you have the '50' error.
Mine doesn't.
If it's hot, then I guess it's hot! Maybe you can take control of the drive
motor, remove the path past the drum, and get a straight shot past the
fuser? Might be a little work! ;>)
Alan KM6VV
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "alan00463" <alan00463@...> wrote:
> >
> > Does anybody know if a HP LaserJet Series II
> > would be good for laminating toner transfer ?
>
> I should have been more specific in asking about this
> printer. I doubt it still prints. What I was wonder-
> ing was this:
>
> If somebody tossed the printer because the printing
> mechanism stopped working for some reason, could I still
> use the machine to laminate toner transfer paper?--forget
> about printing. In other words, could I still use it as a
> laminator rather than buy a laminator? Assuming the roller
> still gets hot or will after I replace the triac and/or fuse.
>
>
RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Alan Marconett
Hi Stefan,
I got all 10 or so parts, but I only tired to extract one at a time (tried
the first 2 or 3 files). I get "format damaged" now, trying all (or just
one) of the files.
Alan KM6VV
I got all 10 or so parts, but I only tired to extract one at a time (tried
the first 2 or 3 files). I get "format damaged" now, trying all (or just
one) of the files.
Alan KM6VV
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Might be a archive consisting of multiple files.
> I believe it worked for me with winrar back then, did you have all parts
> of the archive?
>
> ST
>
>
>
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:16:27 +0100, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...> wrote:
>
> > HI Stefan,
> >
> >
> > Looks like a good resource, but I was unable to unzip the rar files with
> >
> > WinRar.
> >
> >
> > Alan KM6VV
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-22 by Stefan Trethan
The path isn't totally straight, and the transport speed would be way too
high for PCBs.
It seems to me it must be easier to take out the fuser and work from there
than trying to adress these issues in the printer.
ST
high for PCBs.
It seems to me it must be easier to take out the fuser and work from there
than trying to adress these issues in the printer.
ST
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 22:44:01 +0100, Alan Marconett <KM6VV@...> wrote:
> HI Alan 00,
>
>
> Sorry if I sidetracked the thread!
>
>
> Were you going to use pieces of the printer? Or were you wanting to FEED
>
> the board and transfer paper through the printer?
>
>
> Interesting idea. I wonder if I've got any more printers awaiting
>
> demolition?
>
>
> I doubt if you could "feed" anything through if you have the '50' error.
>
> Mine doesn't.
>
>
> If it's hot, then I guess it's hot! Maybe you can take control of the
> drive
>
> motor, remove the path past the drum, and get a straight shot past the
>
> fuser? Might be a little work! ;>)
>
>
> Alan KM6VV
RE: Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-23 by Len Warner
At Wed, 22 Mar 2006 09:38:08 -0800, Alan Marconett wrote:
HP Error Codes
http://info.electronicwerkstatt.de/bereiche/druckertechnik/hp/hp_error_codes3.html
"HP LaserJet Printers - Printer Control Panel Display Status and Error
Messages"
[ First hit from Google search <"50" error code HP LaserJet Series II> ]
Regards, LenW
--
A: Because it destroys the flow of the conversation
Q: Why is top-posting bad?
>Do you by chance know what a "50" error code would be for an HP LaserJetDoes this help?
>Series II?<snip>
HP Error Codes
http://info.electronicwerkstatt.de/bereiche/druckertechnik/hp/hp_error_codes3.html
"HP LaserJet Printers - Printer Control Panel Display Status and Error
Messages"
[ First hit from Google search <"50" error code HP LaserJet Series II> ]
Regards, LenW
--
A: Because it destroys the flow of the conversation
Q: Why is top-posting bad?
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-29 by Philip Pemberton
In message <op.s6t069pumg0lsf@tu-x2pj5qeyp2u4>
"Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
the springs are far too tight to take a 1.6mm board. What I need to do is
find a way to weaken the spring a bit or move it about. Problem is, that's
easier said than done...
--
Phil. | Kitsune: Acorn RiscPC SA202 64M+6G ViewFinder
philpem@... | Cheetah: Athlon64 3200+ A8VDeluxeV2 512M+100G
http://www.philpem.me.uk/ | Tiger: Toshiba SatPro4600 Celeron700 256M+40G
"Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
> The IIID has a fuser unit that could potentially be used, so i guess theI've done a few tests - the fuser will take anything up to about 0.8mm, but
> II will be similar.
> I prefer the fuser out of a copier, since it is larger and has a handwheel
> for manual advancing, but i don't see why the HP II fuser unit shouldn't
> work. I haven't inspected the spring/distance mechanism of it, but if it
> is built like the rest of the printer you can probably feed through a
> populated PCB without damage ;-)
the springs are far too tight to take a 1.6mm board. What I need to do is
find a way to weaken the spring a bit or move it about. Problem is, that's
easier said than done...
--
Phil. | Kitsune: Acorn RiscPC SA202 64M+6G ViewFinder
philpem@... | Cheetah: Athlon64 3200+ A8VDeluxeV2 512M+100G
http://www.philpem.me.uk/ | Tiger: Toshiba SatPro4600 Celeron700 256M+40G
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HP LaserJet Series II
2006-03-29 by Stefan Trethan
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> I've done a few tests - the fuser will take anything up to about 0.8mm,On my copier fuser i simply pulled on them with pliers to stretch them a
> but
>
> the springs are far too tight to take a 1.6mm board. What I need to do is
>
> find a way to weaken the spring a bit or move it about. Problem is,
> that's
>
> easier said than done...
bit.
If i want to tighten them for thin PCBs i engage them not in the holes of
the lugs but instead on the top edge.
For a while i though about making screw-adjustment, but it's really fine
as it is.
ST