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Safe CuCl etchant storage?

Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-22 by wbblair3

I realize that a glass container would be safe for the storage of CuCl
etchant with respect to acid resistance, but breakage would be the
obvious problem there.  What sort of commonly available containers
normally intended for other uses would be safe to store this type of
etchant (I've always used FeCl3 etchant in the past). 

From what I can find about polypropylene's (PP) resistance to HCl:

http://www.lamtec.com/chemical-resist2.htm

it appears that containers marked PP (like the common plastic food
storage containers one can find anywhere) might be OK for use as
etchant tanks/baths, but I wonder about the suitability of PP for
storage.  The sealing methods used on the PP food-related containers
I've seen that were designed for the storage of liquids don't look
adequate for the storage of an acid (dropping a container full of
orange juice and making a mess because a spout pops open is one thing,
having HCl spray all over your floor is an entirely different sort of
thing).

Of course, it goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) that the
use of food containers for storage would require that they be clearly
marked with the words "POISON" and "ACID" in large, bold letters (in
addition to the words "CuCl Etchant" which wouldn't mean anything to
most people) and kept out of the reach of children.  And, for that
matter, any container used should be marked as such.

Anyway, what are those of you who are using this etchant using for the
safe storage of it?

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-22 by Leon Heller

----- Original Message ----- 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "wbblair3" <wbblair3@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Safe CuCl etchant storage?


>I realize that a glass container would be safe for the storage of CuCl
> etchant with respect to acid resistance, but breakage would be the
> obvious problem there.  What sort of commonly available containers
> normally intended for other uses would be safe to store this type of
> etchant (I've always used FeCl3 etchant in the past). 
> 
>>From what I can find about polypropylene's (PP) resistance to HCl:
> 
> http://www.lamtec.com/chemical-resist2.htm
> 
> it appears that containers marked PP (like the common plastic food
> storage containers one can find anywhere) might be OK for use as
> etchant tanks/baths, but I wonder about the suitability of PP for
> storage.  The sealing methods used on the PP food-related containers
> I've seen that were designed for the storage of liquids don't look
> adequate for the storage of an acid (dropping a container full of
> orange juice and making a mess because a spout pops open is one thing,
> having HCl spray all over your floor is an entirely different sort of
> thing).
> 
> Of course, it goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) that the
> use of food containers for storage would require that they be clearly
> marked with the words "POISON" and "ACID" in large, bold letters (in
> addition to the words "CuCl Etchant" which wouldn't mean anything to
> most people) and kept out of the reach of children.  And, for that
> matter, any container used should be marked as such.
> 
> Anyway, what are those of you who are using this etchant using for the
> safe storage of it?

I store FeCl3, cupric chloride and NaOH in used plastic milk containers.

Leon
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Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-22 by John Popelish

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...>
wrote:
>
> I store FeCl3, cupric chloride and NaOH in used plastic milk containers.

Then you are asking for trouble.  Milk bottles are designed to work
well for more than the life of the product they contain.  And that
isn't very long.  I have had many such thin polyethylene bottles
spring leaks after sitting on the shelf for a year or less, especially
if one of the fragile corners has been dented.  

The best recycled plastic bottles I have seen lately are the gallon
bottles used to sell Diet Lemon Iced Tea from Nestea (and probably
othe variation, though this is what my wife has been buying).  These
can be hard to find, but are very sturdy, compared to milk containers,
especially with respect to strong corners and bottoms.  They are
stamped PP compatible (recycle plastic group 5) and group 7 (other).  

Of course, there are lots of very good Nalgene and other laboratory
grade plastic bottles available from eBay.  Etchant is such viscous
stuff that it is worth getting good bottles to store it.  A single
spill can cost way more than you will ever spend on bottles.

Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-22 by fenrir_co

I also agree that a milk bottle is the worst thing to store anything 
in. However, most milk bottles I've seen are #2 recycling, not #5. I 
have used FeCl, HCl + H2O2 mixtures, and acetone, in #2 and #5 
plastics (I find it interesting that when you buy pure acetone for 
woodworking, etc, it's in heavy metal cans with lids that are 
impossible to remove, but if you go to a beauty supply store, they 
sell pure acetone in #2 bottles with easily unscrewed caps. I've 
bought a few of these, and now refill them from a 1 gallon jug.). #2 
is what 2.5/5 gallon paint buckets are made out of. I think windshield 
wiper fluid is also sold in #2 bottles, which are heavier than the 
milk type. I use '13 qt sweater box' tupperware to etch in, which are 
#5. I recycle the FeCl3 with peroxide, which I've heard also creates 
CuCl in the mixture.

I was lucky not to have any FeCl leak when I used milk bottles to 
temporarily store it to take it to be disposed of. However, I put some 
water based varnish in one when the can it was in got damaged, and 
didn't swap it into a new can soon enough - the bottle got a dent, 
then leaked everywhere. Luckily nothing was damaged. Don't use milk 
bottles.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-22 by Leon Heller

----- Original Message ----- 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "John Popelish" <jpopelish@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:03 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?


> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon Heller" <leon.heller@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> I store FeCl3, cupric chloride and NaOH in used plastic milk containers.
> 
> Then you are asking for trouble.  Milk bottles are designed to work
> well for more than the life of the product they contain.  And that
> isn't very long.  I have had many such thin polyethylene bottles
> spring leaks after sitting on the shelf for a year or less, especially
> if one of the fragile corners has been dented.  
> 
> The best recycled plastic bottles I have seen lately are the gallon
> bottles used to sell Diet Lemon Iced Tea from Nestea (and probably
> othe variation, though this is what my wife has been buying).  These
> can be hard to find, but are very sturdy, compared to milk containers,
> especially with respect to strong corners and bottoms.  They are
> stamped PP compatible (recycle plastic group 5) and group 7 (other).  
> 
> Of course, there are lots of very good Nalgene and other laboratory
> grade plastic bottles available from eBay.  Etchant is such viscous
> stuff that it is worth getting good bottles to store it.  A single
> spill can cost way more than you will ever spend on bottles.

I've been using them for several months without any problems.

Leon
---
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-22 by Stefan Trethan

Easy - whatever you use store and use it inside a large deep plastic tray  
of sorts.
You might use something like a cat litter box (lion size would be  
preferred ;-)),.
You might also find such a tray at a large butcher, they are used to move  
meat and other disgusting stuff around. Your question has promptet me to  
google for the brand name on my tray and it is from a large supplier of  
spices mainly to butchers. They might be unwilling to give the trays up  
though.

I keep inside this tray my etching tank, and also all the bottles of  
refill chemicals. I had the tank leak once (it is homemade from glass  
glued with silicone and the etchant leaked along a edge i hadn't glued all  
around) but the tray caught all the etchant no problem.

The tray has a fixed place on a sturdy table, but it has handles and  
careful moving around is possible.

For bottles i have PE chemicals bottles from my chemicals store - when i  
get something new i buy the bottle and from then on they will refill it. I  
do not think they would be happy to refill drinks bottles, since they must  
have a special lid with a mechanism where you need to press down to take  
it off - you need a child to help you figure it out if you are unfamiliar  
with it ;-).

HCL will go "through" any plastic bottle after a few years - you'll find a  
salt of sorts on the outside and metallic things closeby corrode. This is  
the same or even stronger with PET drinks bottles (the thickwalled variety  
you are supposed to return). Glass bottles seem to be better, but as you  
say could break. Anyway, HCL is always sold in this style of PE bottle  
even pre-bottled from the manufacturer so i suppose it is OK that a small  
amount seems to get through the walls after a long time.

Don't use these PE bottles for white spirit / solvent naphta! They sold me  
the stuff in such a bottle (they use them for everything), but after a few  
weeks i discovered a substantial amount missing and the side of the bottle  
dented in. It evaporated right through the bottle! So i put it in a glass  
bottle, swapped the label, and after a long time of venting the PE bottle  
i could still re-use it to replace the HCL bottle that looked a bit bad  
already. Strange thing is, Acetone is perfectly fine in these bottles, and  
petrol canisters are also plastic (not sure if pp or pe).

Anyway, short story, ideally buy the proper bottles you will usually get  
with the products, and always store them inside a larger container to  
catch spills. If you only want to store them a bucket would be sufficient  
i guess, but a tray is neat to work over.


ST
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 19:17:41 +0100, wbblair3 <wbblair3@...> wrote:

> I realize that a glass container would be safe for the storage of CuCl
>
> etchant with respect to acid resistance, but breakage would be the
>
> obvious problem there.  What sort of commonly available containers
>
> normally intended for other uses would be safe to store this type of
>
> etchant (I've always used FeCl3 etchant in the past).
>
>
> From what I can find about polypropylene's (PP) resistance to HCl:
>
>
> http://www.lamtec.com/chemical-resist2.htm
>
>
> it appears that containers marked PP (like the common plastic food
>
> storage containers one can find anywhere) might be OK for use as
>
> etchant tanks/baths, but I wonder about the suitability of PP for
>
> storage.  The sealing methods used on the PP food-related containers
>
> I've seen that were designed for the storage of liquids don't look
>
> adequate for the storage of an acid (dropping a container full of
>
> orange juice and making a mess because a spout pops open is one thing,
>
> having HCl spray all over your floor is an entirely different sort of
>
> thing).
>
>
> Of course, it goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) that the
>
> use of food containers for storage would require that they be clearly
>
> marked with the words "POISON" and "ACID" in large, bold letters (in
>
> addition to the words "CuCl Etchant" which wouldn't mean anything to
>
> most people) and kept out of the reach of children.  And, for that
>
> matter, any container used should be marked as such.
>
>
> Anyway, what are those of you who are using this etchant using for the
>
> safe storage of it?

Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-23 by wbblair3

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "John Popelish" <jpopelish@...>
wrote:

> > I store FeCl3, cupric chloride and NaOH in used plastic milk 
> > containers.
> 
> Then you are asking for trouble.  Milk bottles are designed to work
> well for more than the life of the product they contain.  And that
> isn't very long.  I have had many such thin polyethylene bottles
> spring leaks after sitting on the shelf for a year or less,
> especially if one of the fragile corners has been dented.  
> 
> The best recycled plastic bottles I have seen lately are the gallon
> bottles used to sell Diet Lemon Iced Tea from Nestea (and probably
> othe variation, though this is what my wife has been buying).  These
> can be hard to find, but are very sturdy, compared to milk 
> containers, especially with respect to strong corners and bottoms. 
> They are stamped PP compatible (recycle plastic group 5) and group 7
> (other).  
> 
> Of course, there are lots of very good Nalgene and other laboratory
> grade plastic bottles available from eBay.  Etchant is such viscous
> stuff that it is worth getting good bottles to store it.  A single
> spill can cost way more than you will ever spend on bottles.

I just checked and my plastic milk containers are recycle #2 (HDPE). 
The bottle my FeCl3 came in is also marked #2.  HOWEVER, it has _much_
thicker walls than the milk containers and doesn't have nearly as many
visible ridges/seams from the manufacturing process (just ONE along
the bottom).  The 3% H2O2 bottle is also HDPE, not quite as thick as
the FeCl3 bottle, but much thicker than the milk container (and it's
_opaque_ which brings up the question of whether or not a premixed
solution of CuCl etchant in storage should be kept in an opaque
container or at least in a dark area to prevent decomposition of the
H202).

A sturdy, 1 gallon (3.785L) plastic container of cheap white vinegar
that I bought for $1.50 (about 1 UK pound) is also #2, but it's
considerably thicker than the milk container and has far fewer mold
lines.  I had seen mention here of HDPE being OK for use with CuCl
etchant (IIRC), so I picked this item up while shopping.  I had to
clean my home coffee and expresso machines anyway and will just dump
the rest of the vinegar down the drain. 

The shallow (3.5"[8.9cm]x7"[17.8cm]x7"), translucent food storage
containers I plan to use for etchant tanks are all be made of
thick-walled polypropylene (PP) which, as I mentioned in my first
message, seems to be OK for this purpose according to PP's documented
HCl resistance data.  The ones I own have blue lids marked LDPE (#4).

I searched via Google and found that Nalgene lab bottles are LDPE with
leakproof polypropylene (PP) screw closures.  Wikipedia has this on
the differences between LDPE and HDPE (emphasis >" "< mine):

Low density polyethylene (LDPE): This was the first grade of
polyethylene, produced in 1933 by ICI using a high pressure process
via free radical polymerisation. It is defined by a density range of
0.910 - 0.940 g/cc. It is unreactive at room temperatures, except by
strong oxidizing agents, and some solvents cause its swelling. It can
withstand temperatures of 80 °C continuously and 95 °C for a short
time. It is translucent or opaque, quite flexible, and tough to the
degree of being almost unbreakable.

It is widely used for manufacturing various containers, dispensing
bottles, wash bottles, tubing, and > various molded laboratory <
equipment. Its most common use is in plastic bags.

LDPE has more branching (on about 2% of the carbon atoms) than HDPE,
so its intermolecular forces (instantaneous-dipole induced-dipole
attraction) are weaker, its tensile strength is lower, its ductility
is higher, and as its molecules are less tightly packed and less
crystalline because of the side branches, its density is lower. It is
manufactured by free radical polymerization.

High density polyethylene (HDPE): HDPE has little branching, giving it
stronger intermolecular forces and tensile strength than lower density
polyethylenes. The lack of branching is ensured by an appropriate
choice of catalyst (e.g. Ziegler-Natta catalysts) and reaction
conditions.  HDPE is resistant to many different solvents and has a
wide variety of applications, including:

    * Containers
          o Tupperware
          o Laundry detergent bottles
          o Milk cartons
    * Plastic bags
    * > Containment of certain chemicals <
    * > Chemical-resistant piping systems <
    * Geothermal heat transfer piping systems

Looks like a thick-walled container made of HDPE (#2) or LDPE (#4)
with a minimum number of visible mold ridges from the manufacturing
process and with a screw-on, leak resistant cap should be OK.  

As a backup, I'd then store this in a plastic bucket or a large deep
plastic tray with handles as suggested by Stefan Trethan in another
post in this thread.

Stefan also mentioned heavy-walled PET drinks bottles of the
thick-walled variety that you are supposed to return for recycling
and, not sure of what he was talking about since we don't return any
plastic containers for recycling in this state (Colorado) that I know
of, I looked up PET at Wikipedia and found this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate

Stefan also stated that this was the type of plastic used in the
chemical manufacturer's original HCl containers, so the thick-walled
variety must be OK to use for CuCl etchant.  My 259ml water bottles
and 2 liter soda bottles are PET and are marked PETE (#1), but are not
thick-walled.

WB

Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-23 by wbblair3

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> Easy - whatever you use store and use it inside a large deep plastic
> tray of sorts. You might use something like a cat litter box (lion 
> size would be preferred ;-)),. 
>
> You might also find such a tray at a large butcher, they are used to
> move meat and other disgusting stuff around. Your question has
> promptet me to google for the brand name on my tray and it is from 
> a large supplier of spices mainly to butchers. They might be
> unwilling to give the trays up though.
>
> I keep inside this tray my etching tank, and also all the bottles of  
> refill chemicals... The tray has a fixed place on a sturdy table,
> but it has handles and careful moving around is possible.
> 
> For bottles i have PE chemicals bottles from my chemicals store.

[edit]

> HCL will go "through" any plastic bottle after a few years - you'll
> find a salt of sorts on the outside and metallic things closeby
> corrode. This is the same or even stronger with PET drinks bottles
> (the thickwalled variety you are supposed to return). Glass bottles
> seem to be better, but as you say could break. Anyway, HCL is always
> sold in this style of PE bottle even pre-bottled from the
> manufacturer so i suppose it is OK that a small  
> amount seems to get through the walls after a long time.

[edit]

> Anyway, short story, ideally buy the proper bottles you will usually
> get with the products, and always store them inside a larger
> container to catch spills. If you only want to store them a bucket
> would be sufficient i guess, but a tray is neat to work over.

Stephan,

A post full of valuable information and great ideas, as usual.  Per
your ideas, I'm going to store my pre-mixed etchant container in one
of those 5-gallon buckets with a lid along with the plastic food
storage containers I'll be using as etching tanks.  During etching,
those tanks will be kept inside a large plastic tray (one with handles
if I can find one).  After etching, the etchant will be funneled
(using a plastic funnel) back into the storage bottle which will be
sitting in that large plastic tray during the transfer.  During the
entire process, I'll be wearing eye protection and nitrile gloves.

This all makes it sound like a far more dangerous process that it
really is, but I'm not one to knowingly take unnecessary risks. 

Thanks!
WB

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-23 by Stefan Trethan

It would be much easier, and probably safer, to leave the etchant in the  
etching tank.

ST
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 03:56:14 +0100, wbblair3 <wbblair3@...> wrote:

> Stephan,
>
>
> A post full of valuable information and great ideas, as usual.  Per
>
> your ideas, I'm going to store my pre-mixed etchant container in one
>
> of those 5-gallon buckets with a lid along with the plastic food
>
> storage containers I'll be using as etching tanks.  During etching,
>
> those tanks will be kept inside a large plastic tray (one with handles
>
> if I can find one).  After etching, the etchant will be funneled
>
> (using a plastic funnel) back into the storage bottle which will be
>
> sitting in that large plastic tray during the transfer.  During the
>
> entire process, I'll be wearing eye protection and nitrile gloves.
>
>
> This all makes it sound like a far more dangerous process that it
>
> really is, but I'm not one to knowingly take unnecessary risks.
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> WB

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Safe CuCl etchant storage?

2006-02-23 by Stefan Trethan

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 03:13:57 +0100, wbblair3 <wbblair3@...> wrote:

> (and it's
>
> _opaque_ which brings up the question of whether or not a premixed
>
> solution of CuCl etchant in storage should be kept in an opaque
>
> container or at least in a dark area to prevent decomposition of the
>
> H202).

The H2O2 mixed with acid and metal traces will decompose anyway, which is  
why you mustn't have a tightly closing lid or the bottle can explode. Back  
in the days before i had a permanent etching tank i had a bottle with a  
tiny hole made in the cap. I glued a smaller cap on top of it, with  
another hole, and filled the space between with open cell foam rubber.  
This way it won't leak fast even when tipped over.

> of, I looked up PET at Wikipedia and found this:
>
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate
>
>
> Stefan also stated that this was the type of plastic used in the
>
> chemical manufacturer's original HCl containers, so the thick-walled
>
> variety must be OK to use for CuCl etchant.  My 259ml water bottles
>
> and 2 liter soda bottles are PET and are marked PETE (#1), but are not
>
> thick-walled.


PET is _NOT_ originally used, PE is, HDPE from the feel of it.
PET will be ok, but form salts on the outside and become cloudy quicker.

ST

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