Homebrew PCBs

Over the last few months, I've been trying some new techniques and
upgading my equipment. Santa brought me a Samsung ML-2010 laser
printer and a Xerox-zzzzzz laminator to replace my antique Laserjet
IIIP+ and 4" GBC laminator.

I've had some successes and failures that I' like to share with the group.

Let's get the failures over with ;)

Reynold's Foil:

Works great with the Laserjet IIIP+ and Xerox toner cartridge, but is
a miserable failure with the Samsung ML_2010 and Samsung toner. As we
have seen there is a big difference in toner chemistries, also the HP
IIP+ is built like a locomotive compared to the Samsung. Note, the
foil also doesn't work with a standard HP toner cartridge.

Successes:

Xerox xxxxxxx laminator:

Great design, very rigid and heavy. It has a heavy duty heating
element. It has a thermostat and a setting for foil. I found one pass
is all that is needed.It will run standard thickness pcbs. The trick
is to put them in at a slight angle so the rollers will grab a corner
first.It's available at Staples for $39 after a $20 mail in rebate.

Removing clay coated inkjet paper:

I found that automatic dish washing detergent helps wet out and remove
the paper. I let the board soak for 10 minutes in a solution and the
paper comes off very easily.It's probably the alkalinity in the
detergent that helps. After the soak, I use a 3M green pad to rub off
the paper. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the white haze that
was usually left on the toner for the clay also was removed. The
traces looked nice and black.

TANSTAAFL!

I'll post some photos, later.

Myc

Sorry guys,

The model number for the XEROX laminator should read XRX-LM1910.

Myc

So did the Samsung work with paper or did you go back to the LaserJet? I 
have a Samsung and I have never managed to get TT to work reliably.

Les

Mycroft2152 wrote:
> Over the last few months, I've been trying some new techniques and
> upgading my equipment. Santa brought me a Samsung ML-2010 laser
> printer and a Xerox-zzzzzz laminator to replace my antique Laserjet
> IIIP+ and 4" GBC laminator.
>
>   



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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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On Tue, 31 Jan 2006 15:47:27 +0100, Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...>  
wrote:

> I found that automatic dish washing detergent helps wet out and remove
>
> the paper. I let the board soak for 10 minutes in a solution and the
>
> paper comes off very easily.It's probably the alkalinity in the
>
> detergent that helps. After the soak, I use a 3M green pad to rub off
>
> the paper. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the white haze that
>
> was usually left on the toner for the clay also was removed. The
>
> traces looked nice and black.
>


Yes, i notice the same effect with detergent (for manual dishwashing). I  
was thinking it is because it lowers the surface tension / increases  
wetability but it might be the alkalinity too.
With the detergent i tried the effect was not sufficiently strong to  
justify the added effort in using it compared to plain water, especially  
if i roughen up the back side of the paper with a wire brush or sanding  
paper just before soaking.

I dunno if the removal of the clay is due to your detergent, or the green  
pad?

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Les Newell <lesnewell@h...> 
wrote:
>
> So did the Samsung work with paper or did you go back to the 
LaserJet? I 
> have a Samsung and I have never managed to get TT to work reliably.
> 
> Les
> 
> Mycroft2152 wrote:
> > Over the last few months, I've been trying some new techniques 
and
> > upgading my equipment. Santa brought me a Samsung ML-2010 laser
> > printer and a Xerox-zzzzzz laminator to replace my antique 
Laserjet
> > IIIP+ and 4" GBC laminator.
> >
> >   
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/240 - Release Date: 
25/01/2006
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Les Newell <lesnewell@h...> 
wrote:
>
Yes the Samsung works fine. The Samsung/staples paper/XEROX 
laminator works great for me.

I'm running a few boards this morning.

Myc


> So did the Samsung work with paper or did you go back to the 
LaserJet? I 
> have a Samsung and I have never managed to get TT to work reliably.
> 
> Les
> 
> Mycroft2152 wrote:
> > Over the last few months, I've been trying some new techniques 
and
> > upgading my equipment. Santa brought me a Samsung ML-2010 laser
> > printer and a Xerox-zzzzzz laminator to replace my antique 
Laserjet
> > IIIP+ and 4" GBC laminator.
> >
> >   
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/240 - Release Date: 
25/01/2006
>

Hi Stefan,

I had previously used regular dishwashing detergent. And it helped 
wet out the paper. But did not work as well on the clay coating. The 
green pad is important too. Same technique, the only difference was 
the dishwashing detergent.

In a previous life, I was a textile chemist. We routinely used 
caustic scours to clean the fabvric and machines. This removed dirt, 
oils and binders (startch, PVA and acrylics) used in manufacturing 
the base fabric.

TANSTAAFL!

Myc


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2006 15:47:27 +0100, Mycroft2152 
<mycroft2152@y...>  
> wrote:
> 
> > I found that automatic dish washing detergent helps wet out and 
remove
> >
> > the paper. I let the board soak for 10 minutes in a solution and 
the
> >
> > paper comes off very easily.It's probably the alkalinity in the
> >
> > detergent that helps. After the soak, I use a 3M green pad to 
rub off
> >
> > the paper. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the white 
haze that
> >
> > was usually left on the toner for the clay also was removed. The
> >
> > traces looked nice and black.
> >
> 
> 
> Yes, i notice the same effect with detergent (for manual 
dishwashing). I  
> was thinking it is because it lowers the surface tension / 
increases  
> wetability but it might be the alkalinity too.
> With the detergent i tried the effect was not sufficiently strong 
to  
> justify the added effort in using it compared to plain water, 
especially  
> if i roughen up the back side of the paper with a wire brush or 
sanding  
> paper just before soaking.
> 
> I dunno if the removal of the clay is due to your detergent, or 
the green  

> pad?
> 
> ST
>

On Tue, 31 Jan 2006 16:38:38 +0100, mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...>  
wrote:

> Hi Stefan,
>
>
> I had previously used regular dishwashing detergent. And it helped
>
> wet out the paper. But did not work as well on the clay coating. The
>
> green pad is important too. Same technique, the only difference was
>
> the dishwashing detergent.
>
>
> In a previous life, I was a textile chemist. We routinely used
>
> caustic scours to clean the fabvric and machines. This removed dirt,
>
> oils and binders (startch, PVA and acrylics) used in manufacturing
>
> the base fabric.
>
>
> TANSTAAFL!
>
>
> Myc


Hmm i think i'll try dishwasher detergent. What did you use, the powder?
Most seems to come in compressed pieces these days, but should be easy to  
break some off.

ST

Hi Stefan,
I used a liquid version, something Like "Cascade", but a powder 
should work fine.

Myc

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2006 16:38:38 +0100, mycroft2152 
<mycroft2152@y...>  
> wrote:
> 
> > Hi Stefan,
> >
> >
> > I had previously used regular dishwashing detergent. And it 
helped
> >
> > wet out the paper. But did not work as well on the clay coating. 
The
> >
> > green pad is important too. Same technique, the only difference 
was
> >
> > the dishwashing detergent.
> >
> >
> > In a previous life, I was a textile chemist. We routinely used
> >
> > caustic scours to clean the fabvric and machines. This removed 
dirt,
> >
> > oils and binders (startch, PVA and acrylics) used in 
manufacturing
> >
> > the base fabric.
> >
> >
> > TANSTAAFL!
> >
> >
> > Myc
> 
> 
> Hmm i think i'll try dishwasher detergent. What did you use, the 
powder?
> Most seems to come in compressed pieces these days, but should be 
easy to  

> break some off.
> 
> ST
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Les Newell <lesnewell@h...> wrote:
>
> So did the Samsung work with paper or did you go back to the
LaserJet? I 
> have a Samsung and I have never managed to get TT to work reliably.
> 
> Les

> 
My two year old Samsung ML-1710 works perfectly with Pulsar Toner
Transfer products