Homebrew PCBs

This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces with .010" 
wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken" so I 
had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I did 
get it.

I tinned the board using solder paste (plumbers paste) as I have 
been doing.  I then extracted some strands of conductor from 
stranded wire and tinned that.  

To make the "jumper", I laid the strand against the trace, and 
pressed down with the soldering iron tip and it held.  It worked 
fine for all the breaks I had to fix.

I did try to drag solder over the gaps to bridge them, but couldn't 
get that to work.  Further complicating it was the small traces and 
close proximity of the traces - I would end up shorting out several 
traces together.

While not an ideal solution, it worked pretty good.

As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in too 
much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected the 
boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that the 
Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the 
etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the 
transfer process again - it would have been much faster and easier.

Chris

Solder bridges can be made easier when the iron is set to a cooler  
temperature.
But still - if adjacent traces are nearer it ain't gonna work with solder.

The stranded wire thing works well, i usually take longer pieces and fold  
them over the edge of the board or something, the excess is cut off with a  
knife.
If you use any length of wire - make sure you tack it all down, otherwise  
someone might bend it shorting it to other traces.

ST


On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 15:16:02 +0100, lcdpublishing  
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

> This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces with .010"
>
> wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken" so I
>
> had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I did
>
> get it.
>
>
> I tinned the board using solder paste (plumbers paste) as I have
>
> been doing.  I then extracted some strands of conductor from
>
> stranded wire and tinned that.
>
>
> To make the "jumper", I laid the strand against the trace, and
>
> pressed down with the soldering iron tip and it held.  It worked
>
> fine for all the breaks I had to fix.
>
>
> I did try to drag solder over the gaps to bridge them, but couldn't
>
> get that to work.  Further complicating it was the small traces and
>
> close proximity of the traces - I would end up shorting out several
>
> traces together.
>
>
> While not an ideal solution, it worked pretty good.
>
>
> As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in too
>
> much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected the
>
> boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that the
>
> Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the
>
> etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the
>
> transfer process again - it would have been much faster and easier.
>
>
> Chris

Thanks for the tip on bridging with a lower temp, I will try that 
next time.

I did observe the possibility with bending a wire which could short 
to the next trace, however, it also made me think about a more 
sinister problem.

I figured if I didn't get the wire secured along it's entire lenght 
it could cause noise problems.  Is this a fair assumption on my part?

Chris



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
> Solder bridges can be made easier when the iron is set to a 
cooler  
> temperature.
> But still - if adjacent traces are nearer it ain't gonna work with 
solder.
> 
> The stranded wire thing works well, i usually take longer pieces 
and fold  
> them over the edge of the board or something, the excess is cut 
off with a  
> knife.
> If you use any length of wire - make sure you tack it all down, 
otherwise  
> someone might bend it shorting it to other traces.
> 
> ST
> 
> 
> On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 15:16:02 +0100, lcdpublishing  
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> 
> > This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces 
with .010"
> >
> > wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken" 
so I
> >
> > had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I 
did
> >
> > get it.
> >
> >
> > I tinned the board using solder paste (plumbers paste) as I have
> >
> > been doing.  I then extracted some strands of conductor from
> >
> > stranded wire and tinned that.
> >
> >
> > To make the "jumper", I laid the strand against the trace, and
> >
> > pressed down with the soldering iron tip and it held.  It worked
> >
> > fine for all the breaks I had to fix.
> >
> >
> > I did try to drag solder over the gaps to bridge them, but 
couldn't
> >
> > get that to work.  Further complicating it was the small traces 
and
> >
> > close proximity of the traces - I would end up shorting out 
several
> >
> > traces together.
> >
> >
> > While not an ideal solution, it worked pretty good.
> >
> >
> > As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in too
> >
> > much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected the
> >
> > boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that 
the
> >
> > Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the
> >
> > etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the
> >
> > transfer process again - it would have been much faster and 
easier.

> >
> >
> > Chris
>

On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 15:58:32 +0100, lcdpublishing  
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

> I figured if I didn't get the wire secured along it's entire lenght
>
> it could cause noise problems.  Is this a fair assumption on my part?
>
>
> Chris


no. except if you mean it rattling around.

ST

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Fixing traces... not fun but certainly 
doable!


> On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 15:58:32 +0100, lcdpublishing
> <lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
>
>> I figured if I didn't get the wire secured along it's entire lenght
>>
>> it could cause noise problems.  Is this a fair assumption on my part?
>>
>>
>> Chris
>
>
> no. except if you mean it rattling around.

I use wire-wrap wire, or teflon coated wire. I tend to make them on the long 
side, and put a little loop in for strain relief, and to absorb vibration. 
The extra length doesn't matter, as a rule, and makes the wire much easier 
to strip and solder into position. I've just done a lot of mods like that on 
my latest creation.

Leon

Leon

Yup, that's what I meant.  Most of the stuff I make goes onto 
machines and they vibrate.  So I suspected that if the machine is 
vibrating, that could cause this wire to vibrate which in turn would 
create "noise" of some sort.

The only reason I suspected this is because of a bad experience I 
had many years back with radio controlled air planes.  I had a plane 
that would make spazy moves every once in a while.  It was a pain to 
fly (well, a challenge).  Anyway, after a long time of fighting the 
problem it turned out to be the throttle wire.  It would rub against 
the motor when the plane was in a certain attitude and this would 
cause the servos to jump wildly.  I recall the guys on the flying 
field telling me that it was "electrical noise" cause by that metal 
wire rubbing against the metal motor.  I added a small shield 
between the two and the problems went away.  So, I took that 
experience and applied it to that little trace wire fix and expected 
similar problems.

Chris



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 15:58:32 +0100, lcdpublishing  
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> 
> > I figured if I didn't get the wire secured along it's entire 
lenght
> >
> > it could cause noise problems.  Is this a fair assumption on my 
part?

> >
> >
> > Chris
> 
> 
> no. except if you mean it rattling around.
> 
> ST
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing" 
<lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
>
> This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces 
with .010" 
> wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken" so 
I 
> had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I 
did 
> get it.

For tiny breaks, I'm using a conductive pen.  It's silver particles 
in a carrier.  Supposedly you can simply draw traces, but I've found 
that it dispenses too much "ink".  What I do is put a blob on 
something handy (scrap PCB, etc) and use a toothpick or needle to 
transfer small amounts to the broken trace.  I've never tried to 
solder to a patch (it says it's solderable).  Resistance is 0.1 ohm-
cm when cured at 25C and 0.02 when cured at 150C.

You can get info from Jameco Electronics - 
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?
langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716

> As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in too 
> much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected the 
> boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that 
the 
> Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the 
> etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the 
> transfer process again - it would have been much faster and easier.

For cases like this, I use an eraser shield (anyone old enough to 
have drafted schematics and mechanical drawings by hand will know 
what this is).  If the eraser shield openings are too large, I use a 
piece of overhead transparency to reduce the opening.

I've found that the "original" fine point Sharpies work better as an 
etch resist.  The ink in the ultrafine is pretty useless.  I bought 
an industrial Sharpie with a wide tip to see if that ink is better.

For cases where too much ink get's applied, I use an eraser shield 
and eraser to remove the excess.  Anyone old enough to have drafted 
schematics or mechanical drawings by hand will know what this is.  
It took trips to a dozen office supply and craft places to find 
them; and the new ones are crap.  For cases where the eraser shield 
openings are too large, I use a piece of overhead transparency or 
similar material to reduce the opening.  In the end, I have nice 
straight edges...

I've got my toner transfer process down pretty well and don't 
usually have problems with traces being etched open.  I usually err 
on the conservative side and melt the toner until it starts 
spreading.  This can create shorts which I clean up with an Xacto 
knife before etching.  I always go over my copper fills to minimize 
pitting during etch.

Regards,
Dennis

Electrical noise is unlikely to happen from a moving wire, otherwise each  
wire inside any device would be a hazard.
When you move it like in a magnetic field things are totally different.  
Also, the moving parts in RC craft do seem to cause some strange sort of  
interference i do not understand (especially helicopters it seems).

ST


On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 17:18:55 +0100, lcdpublishing  
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

> Yup, that's what I meant.  Most of the stuff I make goes onto
>
> machines and they vibrate.  So I suspected that if the machine is
>
> vibrating, that could cause this wire to vibrate which in turn would
>
> create "noise" of some sort.
>
>
> The only reason I suspected this is because of a bad experience I
>
> had many years back with radio controlled air planes.  I had a plane
>
> that would make spazy moves every once in a while.  It was a pain to
>
> fly (well, a challenge).  Anyway, after a long time of fighting the
>
> problem it turned out to be the throttle wire.  It would rub against
>
> the motor when the plane was in a certain attitude and this would
>
> cause the servos to jump wildly.  I recall the guys on the flying
>
> field telling me that it was "electrical noise" cause by that metal
>
> wire rubbing against the metal motor.  I added a small shield
>
> between the two and the problems went away.  So, I took that
>
> experience and applied it to that little trace wire fix and expected
>
> similar problems.
>
>
> Chris

Perhaps the noise isn't something the circuits are picking up as 
much as the antenna is picking up something.  Don't know about the 
helicopters - I was always shy of those things - not sure why either.




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
> Electrical noise is unlikely to happen from a moving wire, 
otherwise each  
> wire inside any device would be a hazard.
> When you move it like in a magnetic field things are totally 
different.  
> Also, the moving parts in RC craft do seem to cause some strange 
sort of  
> interference i do not understand (especially helicopters it seems).
> 
> ST
> 
> 
> On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 17:18:55 +0100, lcdpublishing  
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> 
> > Yup, that's what I meant.  Most of the stuff I make goes onto
> >
> > machines and they vibrate.  So I suspected that if the machine is
> >
> > vibrating, that could cause this wire to vibrate which in turn 
would
> >
> > create "noise" of some sort.
> >
> >
> > The only reason I suspected this is because of a bad experience I
> >
> > had many years back with radio controlled air planes.  I had a 
plane
> >
> > that would make spazy moves every once in a while.  It was a 
pain to
> >
> > fly (well, a challenge).  Anyway, after a long time of fighting 
the
> >
> > problem it turned out to be the throttle wire.  It would rub 
against
> >
> > the motor when the plane was in a certain attitude and this would
> >
> > cause the servos to jump wildly.  I recall the guys on the flying
> >
> > field telling me that it was "electrical noise" cause by that 
metal
> >
> > wire rubbing against the metal motor.  I added a small shield
> >
> > between the two and the problems went away.  So, I took that
> >
> > experience and applied it to that little trace wire fix and 
expected

> >
> > similar problems.
> >
> >
> > Chris
>

That eraser shield is a good idea.  I could use that with touch ups 
prior to etching and so forth.  Now for the hard part - finding 
one :-) as I am sure I have thrown out a dozen of them in the past 
couple decades.

Chris



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dl5012" <dl5012@y...> wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing" 
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> >
> > This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces 
> with .010" 
> > wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken" 
so 
> I 
> > had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I 
> did 
> > get it.
> 
> For tiny breaks, I'm using a conductive pen.  It's silver 
particles 
> in a carrier.  Supposedly you can simply draw traces, but I've 
found 
> that it dispenses too much "ink".  What I do is put a blob on 
> something handy (scrap PCB, etc) and use a toothpick or needle to 
> transfer small amounts to the broken trace.  I've never tried to 
> solder to a patch (it says it's solderable).  Resistance is 0.1 
ohm-
> cm when cured at 25C and 0.02 when cured at 150C.
> 
> You can get info from Jameco Electronics - 
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?
> langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=263716
> 
> > As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in 
too 
> > much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected 
the 
> > boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that 
> the 
> > Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the 
> > etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the 
> > transfer process again - it would have been much faster and 
easier.
> 
> For cases like this, I use an eraser shield (anyone old enough to 
> have drafted schematics and mechanical drawings by hand will know 
> what this is).  If the eraser shield openings are too large, I use 
a 
> piece of overhead transparency to reduce the opening.
> 
> I've found that the "original" fine point Sharpies work better as 
an 
> etch resist.  The ink in the ultrafine is pretty useless.  I 
bought 
> an industrial Sharpie with a wide tip to see if that ink is better.
> 
> For cases where too much ink get's applied, I use an eraser shield 
> and eraser to remove the excess.  Anyone old enough to have 
drafted 
> schematics or mechanical drawings by hand will know what this is.  
> It took trips to a dozen office supply and craft places to find 
> them; and the new ones are crap.  For cases where the eraser 
shield 
> openings are too large, I use a piece of overhead transparency or 
> similar material to reduce the opening.  In the end, I have nice 
> straight edges...
> 
> I've got my toner transfer process down pretty well and don't 
> usually have problems with traces being etched open.  I usually 
err 
> on the conservative side and melt the toner until it starts 
> spreading.  This can create shorts which I clean up with an Xacto 
> knife before etching.  I always go over my copper fills to 
minimize 

> pitting during etch.
> 
> Regards,
> Dennis
>

lcdpublishing wrote:

>Perhaps the noise isn't something the circuits are picking up as 
>much as the antenna is picking up something.  Don't know about the 
>helicopters - I was always shy of those things - not sure why either.
>
>
>  
>
  Moving point metal on metal contacts tend to make RF noise, with 
dozens of ball bearings helis tend to have hundreds of these.  Also tend 
to have tail rotor wires etc, tons of sources and sinks for RF..

  Wire acts as an antenna, pulling some of the RF out of the air.  Light 
load, it only takes a small amount and goes up and down with the field.  
Touch the motor and all of a sudden there is a sink, wire pumps energy 
into the motor and pulls more from the air.  Pulling more and break the 
connection, and that last bit of extra energy has no where to go and 
reradiates..  Make and break cause a reflection, same basic idea as 
cable impedance mismatch reflections, up or down both cause a 
reflection.  Instant changes in load cause a reflection of energy back 
up the pipe, holds true for mechanical systems as well.

Alan

How do you tin the CB's with Plummers Paste? CAn you instruct me? How good
does it do?

Thanks!!

Kim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "lcdpublishing" <lcdpublishing@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:16 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Fixing traces... not fun but certainly doable!


> This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces with .010"
> wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken" so I
> had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I did
> get it.
>
> I tinned the board using solder paste (plumbers paste) as I have
> been doing.  I then extracted some strands of conductor from
> stranded wire and tinned that.
>
> To make the "jumper", I laid the strand against the trace, and
> pressed down with the soldering iron tip and it held.  It worked
> fine for all the breaks I had to fix.
>
> I did try to drag solder over the gaps to bridge them, but couldn't
> get that to work.  Further complicating it was the small traces and
> close proximity of the traces - I would end up shorting out several
> traces together.
>
> While not an ideal solution, it worked pretty good.
>
> As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in too
> much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected the
> boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that the
> Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the
> etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the
> transfer process again - it would have been much faster and easier.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.19/231 - Release Date: 1/16/2006
>
>

Hi Kim,

Pretty easy actually and yes it works good.  Apply a thin coat of 
the plumbers solder past over the board, heat it with a heat gun 
till the solder melts and flows onto the traces.  Keep the heat gun 
moving or you will burn the PCB.

It was discussed in much more detail a few months back so you should 
check the archives.

Chris












--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Kim Currier" 
<kimcurrier@s...> wrote:
>
> How do you tin the CB's with Plummers Paste? CAn you instruct me? 
How good
> does it do?
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> Kim
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "lcdpublishing" <lcdpublishing@y...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:16 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Fixing traces... not fun but certainly 
doable!
> 
> 
> > This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces 
with .010"
> > wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken" 
so I
> > had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I 
did
> > get it.
> >
> > I tinned the board using solder paste (plumbers paste) as I have
> > been doing.  I then extracted some strands of conductor from
> > stranded wire and tinned that.
> >
> > To make the "jumper", I laid the strand against the trace, and
> > pressed down with the soldering iron tip and it held.  It worked
> > fine for all the breaks I had to fix.
> >
> > I did try to drag solder over the gaps to bridge them, but 
couldn't
> > get that to work.  Further complicating it was the small traces 
and
> > close proximity of the traces - I would end up shorting out 
several
> > traces together.
> >
> > While not an ideal solution, it worked pretty good.
> >
> > As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in too
> > much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected the
> > boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that 
the
> > Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the
> > etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the
> > transfer process again - it would have been much faster and 
easier.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, 
and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >
> > If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.19/231 - Release Date: 
1/16/2006

> >
> >
>

Thanks Chris... I will do that...

Kim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "lcdpublishing" <lcdpublishing@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 7:11 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Tinning with plumbers pastes was- Fixing traces...
not fun but certainly doable!


> Hi Kim,
>
> Pretty easy actually and yes it works good.  Apply a thin coat of
> the plumbers solder past over the board, heat it with a heat gun
> till the solder melts and flows onto the traces.  Keep the heat gun
> moving or you will burn the PCB.
>
> It was discussed in much more detail a few months back so you should
> check the archives.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Kim Currier"
> <kimcurrier@s...> wrote:
> >
> > How do you tin the CB's with Plummers Paste? CAn you instruct me?
> How good
> > does it do?
> >
> > Thanks!!
> >
> > Kim
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "lcdpublishing" <lcdpublishing@y...>
> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:16 AM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Fixing traces... not fun but certainly
> doable!
> >
> >
> > > This weekend I etched some boards with .010" wide traces
> with .010"
> > > wide spacing. After etching I found a couple of traces "broken"
> so I
> > > had to repair them and with these old eyes, it wasn't easy but I
> did
> > > get it.
> > >
> > > I tinned the board using solder paste (plumbers paste) as I have
> > > been doing.  I then extracted some strands of conductor from
> > > stranded wire and tinned that.
> > >
> > > To make the "jumper", I laid the strand against the trace, and
> > > pressed down with the soldering iron tip and it held.  It worked
> > > fine for all the breaks I had to fix.
> > >
> > > I did try to drag solder over the gaps to bridge them, but
> couldn't
> > > get that to work.  Further complicating it was the small traces
> and
> > > close proximity of the traces - I would end up shorting out
> several
> > > traces together.
> > >
> > > While not an ideal solution, it worked pretty good.
> > >
> > > As to the reason for the breaks in the traces - just being in too
> > > much of a hurry.  After doing the toner transfer, I inspected the
> > > boards very good and did notice the missing toner.  Knowing that
> the
> > > Sharpie pen is too blunt to patch the spot, I just went for the
> > > etching.  I really should have cleaned the boards and tried the
> > > transfer process again - it would have been much faster and
> easier.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files,
> and
> > Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > >
> > > If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
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> > >
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> > >
> > >
> > > -- 
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.19/231 - Release Date:
> 1/16/2006
> > >
> > >
> >
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> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
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