Homebrew PCBs

Just saw the perfect direct to boad printer.........


Its a medion 160 photo printer in a store called aldi, uses full width
wax based ribbons, so can do boards upto 7*5 like photo sized etc, on
a special when its gone its gone offer for 69gbp, looks like I was a
week late but had to go so I jumped into car and drove over to get
one, had a good look at it etc, comes with 3 wax based ribbons of the
usual secondary colours, emm I thought just put one ribbon at a time
in get 3 times the life of the ribbons!

Then I spotted the problem, the paper exit, it was almost flat feed
all the way through, right to the last 1 or 2 cm where it drops down
to feed into the tray........Grr....

If I was back in a job and had some spare cash I would buy one and
take a saw to it etc and experiment, but cant afford to lose the money
at the moment



--



Lez

If this printer is a wax ribbon type, then the first question to ask 
yourself is "Does the wax transferred provide enough resist to work 
in the etching bath?"

Anyone out there tried the wax ribbon as a resist. There are a lot 
of photprinters out there now with wax ribons?.

Myc



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Lez <lez.briddon@g...> wrote:
>
> Just saw the perfect direct to boad printer.........
> 
> 
> Its a medion 160 photo printer in a store called aldi, uses full 
width
> wax based ribbons, so can do boards upto 7*5 like photo sized etc, 
on
> a special when its gone its gone offer for 69gbp, looks like I was 
a
> week late but had to go so I jumped into car and drove over to get
> one, had a good look at it etc, comes with 3 wax based ribbons of 
the
> usual secondary colours, emm I thought just put one ribbon at a 
time
> in get 3 times the life of the ribbons!
> 
> Then I spotted the problem, the paper exit, it was almost flat feed
> all the way through, right to the last 1 or 2 cm where it drops 
down
> to feed into the tray........Grr....
> 
> If I was back in a job and had some spare cash I would buy one and
> take a saw to it etc and experiment, but cant afford to lose the 
money

> at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
> 
> Lez
>

Dave, try to print something with water resistant ink and send it to the 
nearest
group member to test.
Let say, a text, if you are not familiar with PCB design.
It will take 10 minutes to you and another 10 minutes to him.
Unfortunately I'm half a globe away.
A lot of bla-bla is not useful.
Cristian

>through Epson Piezo heads.  No wax ribbon type, here.
>
>Dave /  LipChip

David L. Vernon wrote:

>Hello Myc,
>
>These printers are inkjet printers using the Epson
>220, and 1290 models. Inks used are those that can go
>through Epson Piezo heads.  No wax ribbon type, here.
>
>Dave /  LipChip
>
>
>--- mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>If this printer is a wax ribbon type, then the first
>>question to ask 
>>yourself is "Does the wax transferred provide enough
>>resist to work 
>>in the etching bath?"
>>
>>Anyone out there tried the wax ribbon as a resist.
>>There are a lot 
>>of photprinters out there now with wax ribons?.
>>
>>Myc
>>
>>    
>>


  Different subject line, different printer being discussed..

  Answer is yes, almost any amount of wax will work fine as long as it 
is filled.  Just like toner it's nearly inert, if Sharpie residue can 
stand up almost anything else will have a greater thickness.  I've got 
ribbons and have done tests, works fine.  I'd imagine the printer 
mentioned would work as long as it can handle the board thickness, after 
cutting it to clear the output path as the OP mentioned..

Alan

On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 21:47:14 +0100, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:

>  I've got
>
> ribbons and have done tests, works fine.


About the filled area, have you tested that too?

ST

My apologies Alan about answering on the wrong printer.  I tried to delete my message minutes after I sent it.  Not sure how it still got through.
   
  Dave /  LipChip

Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
  David L. Vernon wrote:

>Hello Myc,
>
>These printers are inkjet printers using the Epson
>220, and 1290 models. Inks used are those that can go
>through Epson Piezo heads.  No wax ribbon type, here.
>
>Dave /  LipChip
>
>
>--- mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>If this printer is a wax ribbon type, then the first
>>question to ask 
>>yourself is "Does the wax transferred provide enough
>>resist to work 
>>in the etching bath?"
>>
>>Anyone out there tried the wax ribbon as a resist.
>>There are a lot 
>>of photprinters out there now with wax ribons?.
>>
>>Myc
>>
>>    
>>


  Different subject line, different printer being discussed..

  Answer is yes, almost any amount of wax will work fine as long as it 
is filled.  Just like toner it's nearly inert, if Sharpie residue can 
stand up almost anything else will have a greater thickness.  I've got 
ribbons and have done tests, works fine.  I'd imagine the printer 
mentioned would work as long as it can handle the board thickness, after 
cutting it to clear the output path as the OP mentioned..

Alan



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Christian,  I've printed many different surfaces to include plastics, acyrlic, metals, wood, fabrics, and more using a thermal ink which are water resistant and actually put the ink into the surface or protective paints on the surfaces.  
   
  If some of the people here on this chat group would like to test this, they can arrange through Jason at Sanwave Intl., at  www.swi-usa.com to get specific images printed on surfaces they wish to test.  We can make limited samples in testing with group members here who have an interest.
   
  Dave / LipChip

cristian <cristianbip@...> wrote:
  Dave, try to print something with water resistant ink and send it to the 
nearest
group member to test.
Let say, a text, if you are not familiar with PCB design.
It will take 10 minutes to you and another 10 minutes to him.
Unfortunately I'm half a globe away.
A lot of bla-bla is not useful.
Cristian


>through Epson Piezo heads.  No wax ribbon type, here.
>
>Dave /  LipChip





Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 



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---------------------------------
  YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS 

    
    Visit your group "Homebrew_PCBs" on the web.
    
    To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
    
    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 

    
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 23:03:07 +0100, David L. Vernon <lipchip2@...>  
wrote:

> My apologies Alan about answering on the wrong printer.  I tried to  
> delete my message minutes after I sent it.  Not sure how it still
> got through.
>
>
>   Dave /  LipChip


You can't delete messages from going out through the mail list, don't  
worry, happens all the time with parallel threads that they get confused.

ST

Stefan Trethan wrote:

>On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 21:47:14 +0100, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
>> I've got
>>
>>ribbons and have done tests, works fine.
>>    
>>
>
>
>About the filled area, have you tested that too?
>
>ST
>
>  
>


  Well these were raw tests with the ribbon and my own heating, just to 
try it out..  But the dropouts for a large area etc are pretty specific 
to how lasers print, every filled background Alps etc print I've ever 
seen was completely consistent, unless there was an intentional gradient 
etc.  In general they look like you just ripped a HQ picture out of a 
magazine, no doubt they're well above what's needed to get a good 
board..  The printers I had wouldn've been terrible from their exact 
design, not to mention Mac only..

  Wax transfer should certainly print to a foil page, laminate it down 
to a blank board and I'm sure it'd work without even testing it..

  I'm just now getting over my sore throat that turned into a head cold 
from New Year's, should get some testing etc going soon..

Alan

Look, I'm interested in your printer at $6000.
I'll send you a Bitmap PCB test, asking to print and to send to me. Is that OK?
Could you get a piece of bare PCB?
Cristian

>Christian,  I've printed many different surfaces to include plastics, 
>acyrlic, metals, wood, fabrics, and more using a thermal ink which are 
>water resistant and actually put the ink into the surface or protective 
>paints on the surfaces.
>
>   If some of the people here on this chat group would like to test this, 
> they can arrange through Jason at Sanwave Intl., at  www.swi-usa.com to 
> get specific images printed on surfaces they wish to test.  We can make 
> limited samples in testing with group members here who have an interest.
>

Is it a serious project?
I'm still waiting for an answer.
You just disappear.
Cristian

Look, I'm interested in your printer at $6000.
I'll send you a Bitmap PCB test, asking to print and to send it to me. Is 
that OK?
Could you get a piece of bare PCB?
Cristian

>Christian,  I've printed many different surfaces to include plastics, 
>acyrlic, metals, wood, fabrics, and more using a thermal ink which are 
>water resistant and actually put the ink into the surface or protective 
>paints on the surfaces.
>