Homebrew_PCBs

> Hi all,
>
> WOW, what a difference a little bit of practice makes and a new
> etching tank. I posted images of my latest attempt in the files
> section - root directory.
>
> NewEtching.jpg
>
> Process outline...
>
> Designed in PCB Wizard
> Printed on Pulsar paper using HP laserjet 6p
> Transferred with iron, two 15 second pressings @ 360 degrees F
> Etched in ferric Chloride, warm, with air bubbles.
> Wiped off toner with Acetone
>
> And that is what you see. Next up, I will try the tinning process
> using solder paste as outlined here about a week or so ago.
>
> I am amazed at how much better these came out compared to my
> previous attempts.
>
> The change in transfer was shorter pressing time (was about 90
> seconds or more) and perhaps a bit less heat, didn't measure temp
> last time. Also, made sure to re-position iron during pressing so
> as to make sure the steam vent hole areas would be re-pressed with a
> different part of the iron sole.
>
> I used ferric chloride last time, but in a small tray with gentle
> rocking for agitation. This time, the tank is much larger 1/2
> gallon and am using fish tank bubblers for agitation.
>
> Chris

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> pretty clean. Some pinholing and a few trace blooms but very
> respectable. The trace blooms are due to too much pressure, by the
> way. With an iron, it's very very hard to avoid.
>
> I'm suprised that the pulsar process has pinholes. Guess it's just
> toner transfer with pricey paper.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing"
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > WOW, what a difference a little bit of practice makes and a new
> > etching tank. I posted images of my latest attempt in the files
> > section - root directory.
> >
> > NewEtching.jpg
> >
> > Process outline...
> >
> > Designed in PCB Wizard
> > Printed on Pulsar paper using HP laserjet 6p
> > Transferred with iron, two 15 second pressings @ 360 degrees F
> > Etched in ferric Chloride, warm, with air bubbles.
> > Wiped off toner with Acetone
> >
> > And that is what you see. Next up, I will try the tinning
process
> > using solder paste as outlined here about a week or so ago.
> >
> > I am amazed at how much better these came out compared to my
> > previous attempts.
> >
> > The change in transfer was shorter pressing time (was about 90
> > seconds or more) and perhaps a bit less heat, didn't measure
temp
> > last time. Also, made sure to re-position iron during pressing
so
> > as to make sure the steam vent hole areas would be re-pressed
with a
> > different part of the iron sole.
> >
> > I used ferric chloride last time, but in a small tray with
gentle
> > rocking for agitation. This time, the tank is much larger 1/2
> > gallon and am using fish tank bubblers for agitation.
> >
> > Chris

>
>
> Welcome to the club!!
>
> Been there done that :(
>
> Joaquim
>
>
> -----Mensagem original-----
> De: lcdpublishing [mailto:lcdpublishing@y...]
> Enviada: quinta-feira, 8 de Setembro de 2005 18:51
> Para: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Assunto: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Yahoo- Dumb a$$
>
> Well,
>
> I just realized all this back patting I am giving myself for

> some really good boards and come to find out I screwed up big

> mirrored the image for the solder side and I shouldn't have done

> now everything is backwards.
>
> I think I may still use them if it can put the components on the

> side, that should "re-reverse" everything.
>
> Live and learn right :-(
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files,

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links

> I didn't use the pulsar process completely, just the toner transfer
> paper. Their process uses another iron on transfer product, then
> you scrub the board with the chemicals - didn't like that idea.

>
> The "Bloom" I think you are referring to is from my touch up on the
> toner where I thought I saw some missing spots - my hands are not
> steady enough to just dab the spots so it looks kind of nasty.
>

> The pin-holing would probably be much less if I could figure out how
> to turn up the density of this particlar laser printer 6P. I don't
> think it is putting down enough toner for a really good job.
>

> Well,
>
> I just realized all this back patting I am giving myself for making
> some really good boards and come to find out I screwed up big time. I
> mirrored the image for the solder side and I shouldn't have done that,
> now everything is backwards.
>
> I think I may still use them if it can put the components on the trace
> side, that should "re-reverse" everything.
>
> Live and learn right :-(

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
<snip>
>
> Another one is to spray a light coating of acetone on the
> transfered board. Not enough to cause runs but enough to disolve
the
> toner and have it flow together. I'm not sure where to get a
sprayer
> with acetone resistant parts, though.
>

There's a commercial product for doing this. It's called "Laser
Buddy".

http://laserbuddy.com/

Regards, Bob

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> That club is pretty big and meets EVERY day...
>
> It is very easy to fall into that trap. One way to make sure you
get
> it right is to put text on copper layers that tells you which way
it
> should go. I used to put "stop" on the top layer and know that,
if I
> can read it on the transfer art, it's wrong. "Bot" on the bottom
> reads correctly. If I can read it forward on the transfer art, its
> wrong. If my cad package allowed me to I'd put "stop" reversed on
the
> bottom layer.
>
> if you try to use the other side, keep in mind that you don't have
> plated through holes and will need to solder on the side where a
trace
> comes into a pad. you can do it for most parts but sockets,
relays,
> many connectors and radial electrolyics are impossible. You can
even
> pry up the plastic pads on pin headers and solder the top side.
>
> By the way, watch out for relays when you make library parts. All
the
> relay datasheets seem to have the pinouts shown from the bottom
side.
> I had to chuck a board because of that - stupid me for not dry
> testing it first.
>
> Phil
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing"
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> > Well,
> >
> > I just realized all this back patting I am giving myself for
making
> > some really good boards and come to find out I screwed up big
time. I
> > mirrored the image for the solder side and I shouldn't have done
that,
> > now everything is backwards.
> >
> > I think I may still use them if it can put the components on the
trace
> > side, that should "re-reverse" everything.
> >
> > Live and learn right :-(

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, JanRwl@A... wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/8/2005 2:54:05 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> lcdpublishing@y... writes:
>
> I can put a shim of wood under the socket which lifts it
> up enough to solder it pretty easily (as you can tell from that
> comment, I have been down this path befor).
>
>
> In the end, I BET it will be LESS hassle to simply make all-NEW
boards, and
> hang the bad ones on the wall with a (tiny) note: "IFU"
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob_xyz" <bob_barr@h...> wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> <snip>
> >
> > Another one is to spray a light coating of acetone on the
> > transfered board. Not enough to cause runs but enough to disolve
> the
> > toner and have it flow together. I'm not sure where to get a
> sprayer
> > with acetone resistant parts, though.
> >
>
> There's a commercial product for doing this. It's called "Laser
> Buddy".
>
> http://laserbuddy.com/
>
> Regards, Bob

>
> When are the meetings for this club?
> Chris

>
> I use a copier to lay down the toner and even when I crank up the
> density I still get pinholing. It's the nature of the toner process.
> If you look at the transfered toner with a microscope, you can see
> that it is still just a bunch of plastic particles. However, with a
> really fast etch, I find pinholing to be much reduced. That's an
> argument for hotter etchant.

> I'm not sure where to get a
> sprayer
> with acetone resistant parts, though.

> On Thu, 08 Sep 2005 21:22:42 +0200, Phil <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> >
> > I use a copier to lay down the toner and even when I crank up the
> > density I still get pinholing. It's the nature of the toner

> > If you look at the transfered toner with a microscope, you can

> > that it is still just a bunch of plastic particles. However,

> > really fast etch, I find pinholing to be much reduced. That's an
> > argument for hotter etchant.
>
>
> With inkjet paper and a fuser i don't have pinholing, but with

> paper i get it again, which is kind of a problem and why i don't

> anymore at the moment. Must try hot air reflow of the toner one

>
> ST

> I did look over my traces after removing the toner, no pin holes
> that I could see with a loupe. To make sure i was getting a good
> look, I went outside where the sun is shining and looked again, very
> good, solid, copper traces. I don't know for sure if it is because
> of the transfer paper I used or the heat gun - flash over of the
> toner after transfer. Either way, three boards, no pin holes which
> for this cat is pretty darn exciting!
>
> Chris
>