Homebrew PCBs

I tried twice the tonner paper method, using magazine paper, and iron.
the image transfers to copper really good in some regions (awesome),
but not in others, so many tracks are cut, and cannot use the board yet. 

I used and iron for 8-10 minutes or so. Then hot water for 10 minutes,
and some scratching.
What else can I try in order to get better, and get aceptable results??
I need to make an SO and TSOP pads, so cannot do by hand.

By the way, one of the magazine papers I tried, had some letters
printed on it, and they were transfered too! is this suppose to happend??

Thank you!!!

On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 11:51:12 +0200, patroclus04 <patroclus04@...>  
wrote:

> I tried twice the tonner paper method, using magazine paper, and iron.
> the image transfers to copper really good in some regions (awesome),
> but not in others, so many tracks are cut, and cannot use the board yet.
> I used and iron for 8-10 minutes or so. Then hot water for 10 minutes,
> and some scratching.
> What else can I try in order to get better, and get aceptable results??
> I need to make an SO and TSOP pads, so cannot do by hand.
> By the way, one of the magazine papers I tried, had some letters
> printed on it, and they were transfered too! is this suppose to happend??
> Thank you!!!
>


use a laminatoror fuser, it produces more consistent results.
Also you should try inkjet paper.

ST

----- Original Message -----

From: Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] I finally tried tonner tranfer, but...


> On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 11:51:12 +0200, patroclus04 <patroclus04@...>
> wrote:
>
> > I tried twice the tonner paper method, using magazine paper, and iron.
> > the image transfers to copper really good in some regions (awesome),
> > but not in others, so many tracks are cut, and cannot use the board yet.
> > I used and iron for 8-10 minutes or so. Then hot water for 10 minutes,
> > and some scratching.
> > What else can I try in order to get better, and get aceptable results??
> > I need to make an SO and TSOP pads, so cannot do by hand.
> > By the way, one of the magazine papers I tried, had some letters
> > printed on it, and they were transfered too! is this suppose to
happend??
> > Thank you!!!
> >
>
>
> use a laminatoror fuser, it produces more consistent results.
> Also you should try inkjet paper.
>
> ST

A Photocopier fuser unit rebuilt works well for me
thanks to ST

I use Matt inkjet paper in a laser printer

But I have found that the board has to be really clean
I use thin rubber gloves so the oil from your skin doesn't contaminate the
board
scrub the board with running tap water and a Green Kitchen scouring pad
(ScotchBrite) NO SOAP
if the board holds a film of water when in the vertical position its clean
enough
pat dry with a paper towel and use a hair drier to finish it off, all this
is done with the gloves on
KEEP YOUR FINGERS OF THE COPPER
then you have dry hands to position the paper with the art work on the board
ready for running through the laminator
let the board cool down, the paper should be stuck to the board

I soak the board with warm water and rub it over with a cake of hand soap
and the paper turns a little clear, you can see the tracks appear through
it, slowly rub the paper off with your thumb, there you go ready to etch .
you shouldn't have to touch it up but if you do use a RED Staedtler
permanent Lumocolor F pen  318-2

Have fun Cheers Craig VK2ZCM

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 11:51:12 +0200, patroclus04 <patroclus04@y...>  
> wrote:
> 
> > I tried twice the tonner paper method, using magazine paper, and iron.
> > the image transfers to copper really good in some regions (awesome),
> > but not in others, so many tracks are cut, and cannot use the
board yet.
> > I used and iron for 8-10 minutes or so. Then hot water for 10 minutes,
> > and some scratching.
> > What else can I try in order to get better, and get aceptable
results??
> > I need to make an SO and TSOP pads, so cannot do by hand.
> > By the way, one of the magazine papers I tried, had some letters
> > printed on it, and they were transfered too! is this suppose to
happend??
> > Thank you!!!
> >
> 
> 
> use a laminatoror fuser, it produces more consistent results.
> Also you should try inkjet paper.
> 
> ST

It's harder to get uniform pressure/temperature with an iron but not
impossible.  Just take better care.  However, I suspect your problem
was incomplete preparation of the copper clad board.  Be sure to very
thoroughly clean the pcb blank.  I use 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper
and acetone to clean.  Any grease or oil on the board will prevent the
toner from adhering.  The oil on your hands is enough to cause a
problem.  I use foreceps to handle the board so as to avoid touching
it with my hands.

Transfer of the magazine printing means that it must have been printed
with toner (or some other thermoplastic ink/toner).  I agree with the
use of inkjet paper - I've had good luck in general with it and its
fairly cheap.

Phil

-A Photocopier fuser unit rebuilt works well for me
thanks to ST

I use Matt inkjet paper in a laser printer

But I have found that the board has to be really clean
I use thin rubber gloves so the oil from your skin doesn't 
contaminate the
board
scrub the board with running tap water and a Green Kitchen scouring 
pad
(ScotchBrite) NO SOAP
if the board holds a film of water when in the vertical position its 
clean
enough
pat dry with a paper towel and use a hair drier to finish it off, all 
this
is done with the gloves on
KEEP YOUR FINGERS OF THE COPPER
then you have dry hands to position the paper with the art work on 
the board
ready for running through the laminator
let the board cool down, the paper should be stuck to the board

I soak the board with warm water and rub it over with a cake of hand 
soap
and the paper turns a little clear, you can see the tracks appear 
through
it, slowly rub the paper off with your thumb, there you go ready to 
etch .
you shouldn't have to touch it up but if you do use a RED Staedtler
permanent Lumocolor F pen  318-2

Have fun Cheers Craig VK2ZCM

-- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 11:51:12 +0200, patroclus04 <patroclus04@y...>  
> wrote:
> 
> > I tried twice the tonner paper method, using magazine paper, and 
iron.
> > the image transfers to copper really good in some regions 
(awesome),
> > but not in others, so many tracks are cut, and cannot use the 
board yet.
> > I used and iron for 8-10 minutes or so. Then hot water for 10 
minutes,
> > and some scratching.
> > What else can I try in order to get better, and get aceptable 
results??
> > I need to make an SO and TSOP pads, so cannot do by hand.
> > By the way, one of the magazine papers I tried, had some letters
> > printed on it, and they were transfered too! is this suppose to 
happend??

> > Thank you!!!
> >
> 
> 
> use a laminatoror fuser, it produces more consistent results.
> Also you should try inkjet paper.
> 
> ST

A Photocopier fuser unit rebuilt works well for me
thanks to ST

I use Matt inkjet paper in a laser printer

But I have found that the board has to be really clean
I use thin rubber gloves so the oil from your skin doesn't 
contaminate the
board
scrub the board with running tap water and a Green Kitchen scouring 
pad
(ScotchBrite) NO SOAP
if the board holds a film of water when in the vertical position its 
clean
enough
pat dry with a paper towel and use a hair drier to finish it off, all 
this
is done with the gloves on
KEEP YOUR FINGERS OF THE COPPER
then you have dry hands to position the paper with the art work on 
the board
ready for running through the laminator
let the board cool down, the paper should be stuck to the board

I soak the board with warm water and rub it over with a cake of hand 
soap
and the paper turns a little clear, you can see the tracks appear 
through
it, slowly rub the paper off with your thumb, there you go ready to 
etch .
you shouldn't have to touch it up but if you do use a RED Staedtler
permanent Lumocolor F pen  318-2

Have fun Cheers Craig VK2ZCM

thank you. I'll try ink jet paper, and try to clean the board better,
though I alredy used acetone.

On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 11:51:15 +0200, patroclus04 <patroclus04@...>  
wrote:

> thank you. I'll try ink jet paper, and try to clean the board better,
> though I alredy used acetone.
>


I'll too write up quickly how i clean boards, again:

1) sand lightly with 600 to 1000 grit paper.

2) wipe away the copper and sandpaper dust

3) put some acetone or alcohol on a paper towel and wipe the board, two  
times using slightly different spots.

The other methods surely work just as well, but that's what i do and i  
haven't run into trouble so far.

ST

for cleaning, the best way found is:

1: to merge into etchant, 10 sec.
2: sand paper to wipe off discolored.
3: to keep merging under water before using it.

here to see result (cleaning is part necessarity of a serail )
http://ca.geocities.com/microsoftwarecontrol/tmpr/tmpr.htm

I think I have the best result for me, till now.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: I finally tried tonner tranfer, but...


> On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 11:51:15 +0200, patroclus04 <patroclus04@...>
> wrote:
>
> > thank you. I'll try ink jet paper, and try to clean the board better,
> > though I alredy used acetone.
> >
>
>
> I'll too write up quickly how i clean boards, again:
>
> 1) sand lightly with 600 to 1000 grit paper.
>
> 2) wipe away the copper and sandpaper dust
>
> 3) put some acetone or alcohol on a paper towel and wipe the board, two
> times using slightly different spots.
>
> The other methods surely work just as well, but that's what i do and i
> haven't run into trouble so far.
>
> ST
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


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On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 10:02:33 +0200, vk2zcm <vk2zcm@...> wrote:

>
> Have fun Cheers Craig VK2ZCM


Apparently now it finally came through Craig ;-)

yahoo is a right nuisance sometimes..


ST