Homebrew PCBs

Hi Bob,

You did good! 

Just make sure that your pads are big enough to leave
enough materials after drilling. I ususally make
slightly oversize and stretched octagon pads to
compensate. I even increase the widths of the traces.
Overall its more forgiving and less copper to remove.

Just go sloawly on your first until you feel
comfortable with the techniques. 

Myc

--- KE5CTY Bob <rtnmi@...> wrote:

> I have blank pcbs, board drill bits and parts
> ordered and on the way,
> before they arrive I would like to check the
> following:
> 
> Let me see if I have this right:
> 
> Phase One:
> 1) I layout the board in the software
>       FREEPCB found at FREEPCB.COM
> 2) I print what I just laid out onto
>    my HP DeskJet 712c printer
>      2a) I make a copy with
>          my Panasonic KX-FM106 
>          "Copier/Fax" machine.
> 3) I turn the copied paper upside down on the blank
> copper
> 4) I apply my preheated iron to the backside of the
> paper
>     (the paper should stick well or apply more heat)
> 5) I remove the paper in hot water or something
> 
> Phase Two:
> 6) Now I use the etchant process and remove
>    the still visible copper from the board
> 7) Now I remove the ink from the remaining copper
> 8) Now I drill holes in the board for the components
> 
> Phase Three:
> 9) Insert components and build board.
> ----------------------------
> ----------------------------
> 
> Well how'd I do? Hope I got it all straight :0)
> 
> 7&3 fer nw,
> KE5CTY (old calls WB5ZQU - WY5L)
> http://www.qsl.net/ke5cty/
> Code may be dying but the pioneering spirit that put
> the code there in
> the first place is still going strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 



		
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