Homebrew PCBs

The database with the paper/toner comparisons is here at this site. 
Check over on the left side of the page for a listing of all the 
databases.

The laser foil is non adhesive it requires the toner to work. I 
don't know how toner works for solder resist. It has some metal 
particals mixed in for electrostatic reasons. But using the laser 
foil would change the color from black.

Probably worth a try.

Myc


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, KD5NWA <KD5NWA@c...> wrote:
> I use silver color Laser Foil to label the component side, it's 
really not 
> silver color, but more an aluminum color but it works for it's 
intended 
> purpose. I bought several rolls at Digi-Key, they were 
discontinuing it and 
> it was $3.49 for a roll that is aproximatly 300 feet. I bought 
several in 
> silver and several in green.
> 
> Has anyone used it to make a solder mask?
> 
> Where is the database that you mentioned? Is it at the Pulsar site?
> 
> At 07:42 AM 5/26/2005, you wrote:
> >The Reynolds Parchemnt Paper may also be called Butcher's paper or
> >Baker's paper. Originallly these were wax coated paperrs, but in
> >today's environment, silicones are generally used. Lower cost and
> >more eco friendly.
> >
> >I am using a GBC laminator. (not GLC, it was very late last 
night).
> >I bought one of the 4" wide ones at Staples Office supply for 
under
> >$50. My boards come from the free EAGLE CAD package which limits 
the
> >size to 3" x 4". Perfect for my use.  I swapped the gears in it 
per
> >the Pulsar instructions to slow it down a bit. Though with the 
RPP,
> >I don't think I had to. Staples was discontinuing a 9" home 
version
> >for $40 the last time I looked.
> >
> >There are a lot of good sites with step by step instructions on
> >Toner Transfer.The basic concept is the toner used in a laser
> >printer is a meltable plastic. The image created with the toner is
> >transferred to a paper sheet and then remelted or fused. This 
paper
> >can then be used to re-transfer the image to another substrate by
> >ironing. Crafters have used this for years to transfer photocopied
> >design to fabric and wood. For pcb making, you need to transfer 
100%
> >of the toner, which acts as the resist during etching. It's also
> >good for component legends on the top. Most papers require a water
> >wash and scrub step to wash off the paper and leave the 
toner.After
> >etching the toner is removed.There is a new(?) step being added. 
For
> >those of you who were alive before inkjet printers, one way to get
> >color, especially metallic, was to use a heat sealable foil,
> >commonly called Laser Foil. It was a mylar tape with a metallized
> >coating that would adhere only to the toner.Great for gold seals
> >etc. For pcb's the Laser foil provides both color and an extra
> >smooth and durable coating to the toner resist.
> >
> >The correct combination of paper/ toner/ laseer printer is 
critical
> >for success. There is info in the database on different 
combinations
> >that have worked and not worked. Check it out.
> >
> >Hope this helps,
> >
> >
> >Mycroft2152
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and 
files:
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> Cecil Bayona
> KD5NWA
> www.qrpradio.com
> 
> 'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then 
beat you 
> with experience.'