I use silver color Laser Foil to label the component side, it's really not
silver color, but more an aluminum color but it works for it's intended
purpose. I bought several rolls at Digi-Key, they were discontinuing it and
it was $3.49 for a roll that is aproximatly 300 feet. I bought several in
silver and several in green.
Has anyone used it to make a solder mask?
Where is the database that you mentioned? Is it at the Pulsar site?
At 07:42 AM 5/26/2005, you wrote:
KD5NWA
www.qrpradio.com
'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you
with experience.'
silver color, but more an aluminum color but it works for it's intended
purpose. I bought several rolls at Digi-Key, they were discontinuing it and
it was $3.49 for a roll that is aproximatly 300 feet. I bought several in
silver and several in green.
Has anyone used it to make a solder mask?
Where is the database that you mentioned? Is it at the Pulsar site?
At 07:42 AM 5/26/2005, you wrote:
>The Reynolds Parchemnt Paper may also be called Butcher's paper orCecil Bayona
>Baker's paper. Originallly these were wax coated paperrs, but in
>today's environment, silicones are generally used. Lower cost and
>more eco friendly.
>
>I am using a GBC laminator. (not GLC, it was very late last night).
>I bought one of the 4" wide ones at Staples Office supply for under
>$50. My boards come from the free EAGLE CAD package which limits the
>size to 3" x 4". Perfect for my use. I swapped the gears in it per
>the Pulsar instructions to slow it down a bit. Though with the RPP,
>I don't think I had to. Staples was discontinuing a 9" home version
>for $40 the last time I looked.
>
>There are a lot of good sites with step by step instructions on
>Toner Transfer.The basic concept is the toner used in a laser
>printer is a meltable plastic. The image created with the toner is
>transferred to a paper sheet and then remelted or fused. This paper
>can then be used to re-transfer the image to another substrate by
>ironing. Crafters have used this for years to transfer photocopied
>design to fabric and wood. For pcb making, you need to transfer 100%
>of the toner, which acts as the resist during etching. It's also
>good for component legends on the top. Most papers require a water
>wash and scrub step to wash off the paper and leave the toner.After
>etching the toner is removed.There is a new(?) step being added. For
>those of you who were alive before inkjet printers, one way to get
>color, especially metallic, was to use a heat sealable foil,
>commonly called Laser Foil. It was a mylar tape with a metallized
>coating that would adhere only to the toner.Great for gold seals
>etc. For pcb's the Laser foil provides both color and an extra
>smooth and durable coating to the toner resist.
>
>The correct combination of paper/ toner/ laseer printer is critical
>for success. There is info in the database on different combinations
>that have worked and not worked. Check it out.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>
>Mycroft2152
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
KD5NWA
www.qrpradio.com
'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you
with experience.'