Homebrew PCBs

The Reynolds Parchemnt Paper may also be called Butcher's paper or 
Baker's paper. Originallly these were wax coated paperrs, but in 
today's environment, silicones are generally used. Lower cost and 
more eco friendly.

I am using a GBC laminator. (not GLC, it was very late last night). 
I bought one of the 4" wide ones at Staples Office supply for under 
$50. My boards come from the free EAGLE CAD package which limits the 
size to 3" x 4". Perfect for my use.  I swapped the gears in it per 
the Pulsar instructions to slow it down a bit. Though with the RPP, 
I don't think I had to. Staples was discontinuing a 9" home version 
for $40 the last time I looked.

There are a lot of good sites with step by step instructions on 
Toner Transfer.The basic concept is the toner used in a laser 
printer is a meltable plastic. The image created with the toner is 
transferred to a paper sheet and then remelted or fused. This paper 
can then be used to re-transfer the image to another substrate by 
ironing. Crafters have used this for years to transfer photocopied 
design to fabric and wood. For pcb making, you need to transfer 100% 
of the toner, which acts as the resist during etching. It's also 
good for component legends on the top. Most papers require a water 
wash and scrub step to wash off the paper and leave the toner.After 
etching the toner is removed.There is a new(?) step being added. For 
those of you who were alive before inkjet printers, one way to get 
color, especially metallic, was to use a heat sealable foil, 
commonly called Laser Foil. It was a mylar tape with a metallized 
coating that would adhere only to the toner.Great for gold seals 
etc. For pcb's the Laser foil provides both color and an extra 
smooth and durable coating to the toner resist.

The correct combination of paper/ toner/ laseer printer is critical 
for success. There is info in the database on different combinations 
that have worked and not worked. Check it out.

Hope this helps,


Mycroft2152