Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 07:38:27 -0000, retired0 <retired0@y...> wrote:
> 
> >
> > Tell  us more about the neutral-curing silicone. Brand, cost?
> > mike
> 
> 
> Any brand is very similar i assume. It is just normal silicone chaulk,  
> which comes in a big "syringe". You should have that tool which
presses  
> the plunger, but i guess for paper coating you could do without.
> I only tried with acid curing, and it worked great, but someone
mentioned  
> the acid that is produced during curing might harm the printer. So i  
> bought neutral curing at the DIY store a few days ago, chose grey
variey  
> so it is well visible on paper and also the black toner on it is well  
> visible. It costs about 5eur, a bit more than acid curing one at
~3eur.  
> 310ml that is i think, you can coat a huge amount of paper with that.
> 
> The whole point is this silicone has a slightly tacky surface (you
can't  
> slide anything over it), as opposed to papers for baking or label
backing  
> which have a very slick surface. This allows the toner to stay in
place,  
> but allows it to come off easily too.
> 
> ST

Ok, but I was asking the brand name and part number of the
neutral-curing sealant.
In the US, I've searched high and low.  The only stuff I've found
has been Dow Corning 3145rtv.  Well, there's other stuff, but it isn't
any cheaper.  I've personally verified that you can put this stuff
directly onto electronic components without harming them.  Last I
checked, it was over
$20 for a 3oz. tube.  That's horrible even if you plan to use the
whole tube.  But it starts hardening in the tube after you open it and
I find
I waste 95% of the tube.

There was some stuff at the hardware store that claimed to be
non-corrosive, but after researching it, I convinced myself that
it still wasn't safe for electronic stuff.  I'd be glad to hear
otherwise.

mike