Homebrew PCBs

Stefan Trethan wrote:
> After drying (thin layer cures quickly) you simply print on it like on  
> paper.
> 

   Hadn't checked in here in a while, have a board that'll need to get made soon 
and this looks good so will have to give it a try.  Everything that is easier is 
great, you can always fix a little smudging later.

> Now, while the silicone problems with the lexan tank made me find this  
> out, which is great, i still would hope to find a way to make that tank.  
> standard silicone doesn't stick _at all_ on lexan. not sure what to do  
> next....
> 

     Can't remember which it is off hand that is easier to bend with heat, the 
carbonate or acrylic, but find that out again and get the easier one.  Make a 
rectangular sheet that is your larger 2 sides and bottom all as one piece. 
Table saw a 1/4" groove down each longer side, maybe 1/4"-1/2" in and like 1/3 
through the sheet, with 1/4" sheet.  Two folds to bend up the larger sides, and 
the groove will hold the smaller sides, greatly increasing the surface area and 
decreasing chance of leaks.  Use the welding type glue not silicone, with the 
extra surface area you shouldn't have a problem.  Might find some other glue 
that will stick ok and put a fillet on the outside of the joint, simply as a 
physical block to slow any leaks just in case it does spring one.  If your slot 
is tight to the inserted sides I don't think you'll get any leaks after just the 
weld glue anyway though, I've seen joints like this and they are very good. 
Keeping the corners a bit rounded is best, make it more of a flat bottom U shape 
than right angles and it should be good.

Alan