Homebrew PCBs

People can do what ever they feel comfortable doing but CuCl can be
touchy stuff.  I think people starting out should know this.  I recall
a lot of people having trouble with slow etching and such.    Conc
H2O2 isn't super common (and definitely NOT like pouring orange juice
- I saw a guy get some on his skin, nasty burn).  Pouring/diluting
acid needs to be done with care - more so than AP which is pretty
benign.  CuCl is a bunch of extra steps and precautions that aren't
necessary.  I use CuCl - I'm not saying its bad.

In my opinion, AP is really the way to go for a first-timer.  It
doesn't burn on contact and doesn't stain like FeCl.  Very easy to use
and clear so you can see the board.  I think it really helps the
novice to be able to see the progress of the etch with out lifting the
board out.  But, hey, the beauty of information is that you can do
with it what you please!

Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> On Thu, 03 Feb 2005 05:58:34 -0000, Phil <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> 
> >
> > I think CuCl for a novice is too much.  It requires more fussing,
> > effort and chemistry skill to get going.  Its not impossible but AP or
> > FeCl are much easier to start with.  Given all the other things they
> > are learning, anything that makes the first board simpler to produce
> > is a good thing.
> > I've used all three and recommend AP for the beginner as it is
> > non-staining and you can see the progress of the board.  Both CuCl and
> > FeCl are pretty opaque and cause stains.
> > After the novice has gotten TT or photomask techniques figured out,
> > they should then consider CuCl.  Given that it has a positive
> > implication for the environment, its worth moving to.
> > Phil
> 
> Well, i do assume everyone who should be trusted with any chemical can  
> dilute one with water and add a second one. The CuCl recepies in the
links  
> section are a bit complicated at times, because they use some form of  
> copper to get started, while it isn't required to do that if you use
the  
> copper from your boards and H2O2, over a longer period of time.
> 
> AP must be mixed with water, right? that involves the same steps as  
> diluting HCl. I agree adding H2O2 adds a certain amount of
complexity, but  
> it doesn't seem that much more complicated than pouring a glass of
orange  
> juice.
> 
> The whole analysis stuff is nice, but you don't really need it, i used  
> CuCl for years without, just going by color and etching speed. Of
course,  
> knowing the molarity takes away someting you need to guess
otherwise, so  
> i'd recommend it for beginners, but it only involves using 2
eyedroppers.
> 
> Sure AP can be used, no problems there, but i don't see much advantage.
> 
> ST