My laminator is PG and that makes my laminator safe, I guess.
What you noticed about the bend of plates is a very valuable piece of
information. Are you using any shims to keep thos aluminum lips
apart? I don't thinks because you would have mentioned something.
The staples paper definitely sticks to traces- have you noticed a
post of Bob Weiss suggesting use of eraser to remove traces of paper?
How many times do you have to pass the 0.062 PCB before toner gets
transferred? Mike
What you noticed about the bend of plates is a very valuable piece of
information. Are you using any shims to keep thos aluminum lips
apart? I don't thinks because you would have mentioned something.
The staples paper definitely sticks to traces- have you noticed a
post of Bob Weiss suggesting use of eraser to remove traces of paper?
How many times do you have to pass the 0.062 PCB before toner gets
transferred? Mike
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Radra" <infositeus@y...> wrote:
>
> In September I purchased the GBC® HeatSeal™ H200 Laminator
> from Staples for $99.99 as recommended by Frank Miller of Pulsar.
> After processing a couple of 0.031 inch PCBs, I decided to modify
it
> to accommodate the thicker 0.062 inch PCBs. I carefully followed
the
> TIA modifications provided on the Pulsar web site
> (http://pulsar.gs/).
>
> The directions are not easy to follow, but in all fairness it is
> difficult to describe this modification without use of pictures or
> diagrams. The modification took about an hour and a half; I can now
> do it again in much less time.
>
> Upon completion, I tried to run a 0.062 inch board thru it, but it
> jammed. Upon inspection, I discovered the leading edge of the board
> was hitting the edge of the lower guide plate ("outfeed plate") as
> the board exited the heating rollers. Both the upper and lower
plates
> have a bent edge facing the rollers. I was about to increase the
> bend on the lower plate when I noticed the upper plate had a
slightly
> sharper bend than the lower plate. So I simply swapped the plates
and
> found the 0.062 PCB could then be properly fed thru the laminator.
> All has been well since then.
>
> I am quite pleased with the performance of the laminator. It takes
> the guesswork out of implementing the toner transfer technique.
>
> Bye the way, I have successfully used two types of paper to do the
> transfer. The well known Staples picture paper for injet printers
> (Staples item 471861) has a high clay content which serves to
protect
> the toner. But the paper is somewhat difficult to remove requiring
a
> substantial amount of rubbing. After completion of the rubbing
> process, I have to use a sharp thin blade (Xacto knife) under a
> microscope to remove residual glue from the sides and corners of a
> few traces. The Epson photo paper for ink jet printers (Staples
item
> 380356) will eventually float off the PCB leaving the toner intact.
> This unprotected toner is more delicate than the clay covered toner
> left by the Staples paper but there is significantly less residual
> glue left on the PCB.
>
> Oh...before I forget, there is a recall notice on the H200 and H300
> laminators due to a faulty crimp connection. This connection can
> cause a short circuit that could bypass the temperature regulator
> circuit and both thermal fuses creating a potential fire hazard.
The
> recalled H200 laminators have serial numbers starting with "PI"
> or "PJ". GBC will replace laminators with these serial numbers
(call
> 800-541-0094).