Homebrew PCBs

Personally I do All my boards using UV and Shipleys Resist.

I also print the Positive on Clear Acetate, "Twice".
Than I carefully line them up and Tape them, one on top of the other. 
This gives a Much Higher Contrast and usually Eliminates any Glitches 
in the Printing.

I do a Lot of Boards for projects I sell on my website and numerous 
Persons have commented that they are Very Professional looking.

The Biggest Board I have ever done is in the Pictures Section here, 
Named "Chemelec".

Using the positives I make, I can easily etch 10 ml traces and I have 
etched 5 mil traces on occassion.

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--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Gary" <chemelec@h...> wrote:
> > 
> > I'm using an Older HP 4L Printer.
> > 
> > And What I have found is If you want to print Two Drawings that 
Must 
> > line up with each other, Print them One at a Time and Position 
them 
> > so Both "Print in the Same Area of the page".
> > 
> > This way whatever Errors occurs in the First one,
> > Should also Occur the Exact Same in the Second one.
> > 
> > Hope this Helps.........Gary
> 
> Yes, that's an important point.  I rotate one of the images 180
> degrees for that very reason.  This especially important if you are
> panelizing (multiple boards in a single image).
> 
> Its a good idea to print a test image to see where the distortions
> are.  I use a copier so I just copied a piece of graph paper and 
found
> some small distortion at one end of my copier.  I avoid that area.  
> 
> Also, humidity is an issue to consider since the paper can shrink 
when
> subjected to the fuser heat.  You might try running the paper 
through
> a blank print cycle to dry it but use it quickly before it reabsorbs
> the moisture.