Homebrew PCBs

> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2004 18:29:10 +0200
>    From: Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
> Subject: Re: Re: component legend on solder side
> 
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 16:15:04 -0000, Dave Mucha <dave_mucha@...> 
> wrote:
> 
> > Hi Stefan,
> >
> > My thoughts are in using a cloth or something that can be compressed
> > easily.  the cloth on top of the paper would push more on the paper
> > so it would (hopefully) let the letters touch.
> >
> > Also, there is (expensive) transfer paper you can buy at hobby
> > stores.  You can print on it and then like a decal, transfer it to
> > the board.  This will not work with SMD parts as it also acts like a
> > coating on the board.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> 
> anything that doesn't work for SMD is of no use as i can make near perfect
> legend on the top side of the board - for throughhole components.
> 
> I also think something compressible might work.
> I had the silicone rubber lower pressure roller in mind, but it seems
> there the temperature isn't high enough. I will see if cranking
> the fuser temp. up a bit makes it any better.
> 
> It could also be that the paper is just to stiff to be bent that much
> but i do not think this is the case because in some places the transfer
> continues just besides the trace with only a tiny gap. (i wouldn't mind
> the gap).
> 
> 
> This needs more experimenting, i'm sure it can be done.
> 
> ST
> 
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Stefan,

I haven't read many of the previous messages in this thread (Sorry. New member.) But, if you were doing a lot of these, it might be worth trying to use an "inverse image" board, i.e. having copper only wherever yours doesn't, probably with somewhat smaller copper areas than a true inverse-image board would have, so that the two boards would "fit together" when their copper sides were facing each other.  With enough pressure, the inverse-image board's copper areas should be able to press the paper into the non-copper areas of the board being printed on.

This was just a thought.  I've never tried it.  I don't know how well the "board sandwich" would transfer the heat, or how much pressure you'd need, or how you'd keep the boards aligned, etc.  And if you're not using a computer to generate your artwork it might not be quite as easy to generate the inverse-image board's artwork. But I thought I'd throw the idea out, anyway, just in case it might somehow be helpful.  Good luck.

Regards,

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

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