-------- Original Message -------- From: - Wed May 08 19:31:50 2002 X-Mozilla-Status: 0001 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <3CD9DF96.1080906@...> Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 19:31:50 -0700 From: "David L. Miller" <David.Miller@...> User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:0.9.9+) Gecko/20020404 X-Accept-Language: en-us, en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: hot air soldering comments References: <ab8bar+ls14@...> Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="------------060503060605060300060105" I don't know what the "proper" preheat temperature is, but I can tell you that when our contract manufacturer re-works a board for us at work, they bake it at 125C (~250F) for 24 hours before they touch a chip. So, you should be able to heat to 200F "forever" without damaging anything... tedinoue wrote: > Hi Guys, > > Thanks for replying. I have referenced Hans' links and the others in > the past and made the hot-air-pencil -- that works fine. My real > questions lie elsewhere > Hans indicates that preheating is necessary. ok, one question down. > > The outstanding questions are: > What is the proper preheating temperature? > Is there a maximum time you should preheat the board/components > before damage can set in? > What can I do about unmelted solder paste that has moved under > surface mount caps? > What do you do about the tiny cap components blowing away, even under > very minimal air flow? I've read a tiny dab of epoxy. What do others > do? > > Thanks, > Ted > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., Steve Greenfield wrote: > > Yup, Hans, your page has been in the bookmarks of the Group home > > page for weeks! > > > > Hint, hint, everyone, check out the Bookmarks at the Group home > > page once in a while. Also a reminder to add useful links. > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/links > > > > Do you think one of those warmer plates would work? Not a hotplate, > > I mean those glass warmer things. I was just figuring they are > > pretty cheap at the thrift store. > > > > Also a reminder that when you do this, the solder paste must be dry > > before you start trying to solder, or any fluids will boil and push > > the parts off the pads. Should be able to do that by warming it up > > on your pre-warmer for a bit. > > > > Steve Greenfield > > > > --- hans@c... wrote: > > > Ted, > > > I made a Hot Air Pencil and published the idea several years ago > > > at my > > > web site. > > > The single most important item is the heat exchanger. In my > > > design I > > > filled it with stainless steel > > > wool and that made a vast difference. > > > Pre-heating the board is required. > > > http://hans-w.com/surfacem.htm > > > hansw > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness > > http://health.yahoo.com > > > *Yahoo! Groups Sponsor* > ADVERTISEMENT > Click Here! > > > > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service > .
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[Fwd: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: hot air soldering comments]
2002-05-09 by David L. Miller
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