--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> wrote:
If you dip the tin-lead plated panels in straight peroxide (30% or
stronger) for 15 or 20 seconds you will be able to etch without
getting the black film on the plated surface. The plated areas will
still be dull looking but if you reflow the tin lead it will look like
a mirror when you're finished.
We used LeaRonal Solderon NF for years and used this method to solve
the black film problem. Even if you scrub the surface it's still in
the holes and could make soldering difficult. Try this peroxide dip
and see if it doesn't make things better.
Tom
> My chemistry is for Tin/Lead (it' all about the organics, which I calledpurchased as)
> brightener thinking of Bright tin which my kit was originally
> This is Solderon BHT-90 series I could buy the separated Tin con, Pbtry it
> con,Anti foam , and carrier but they offered me a small pre mix to
> out. (RohmHaas directly) I'll be buying the components in the future. Myquick rub
> solution is yellow.
> The surface of the plated tin does turns black in the etch, but a
> with a scotchbright cleans it up nicelyJeremy,
>
If you dip the tin-lead plated panels in straight peroxide (30% or
stronger) for 15 or 20 seconds you will be able to etch without
getting the black film on the plated surface. The plated areas will
still be dull looking but if you reflow the tin lead it will look like
a mirror when you're finished.
We used LeaRonal Solderon NF for years and used this method to solve
the black film problem. Even if you scrub the surface it's still in
the holes and could make soldering difficult. Try this peroxide dip
and see if it doesn't make things better.
Tom