Homebrew PCBs

stapes will have something. try this one - its looks pretty close 
http://www.staples.com/Catalog/Browse/sku.asp?
PageType=1&Sku=478684&bcFlag=True&bcSCatId=1&bcSCatName=Office+Supplie
s&bcCatId=10&bcCatName=Paper&bcDeptId=1467&bcDeptName=Inkjet+Paper&bcC
lassId=140781&bcClassName=White+Inkjet+Paper

sorry about the long url, I dont have time to build a tinyurl.

if the url doesnt work its item #478684

Phil

  Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" <geovar13@h...> 
wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> 
wrote:
> > Let me second that
> > Office Max Maxbright 94 /24lb Inkjet paper, same deal about $5.00 
> for 500.
> > It actually the same stuff as office depot, jut a diff package.
> 
> Hmm, we don't have any of those stores here in vermont.Or at least 
> none close by. You would think that for such an expensive state to 
> live in we would have more stuff to show for. Anyways, I'll see if 
> they have anything close to that at staples and give it a try. Now, 
> This morning I tried a small piece of left over PnP paper and it 
> worked pretty good exept for a few smears because I press the iron 
> too hard. I also tried another piece of photo printer paper but 
this 
> time I did not soak it in water. I had better result without the 
> water but I was still mising some sections of the drawing. 
> 
>    Again, I'll give the inkjet paper a try and hope it does well. I 
> mean for the proce is really good. However, this morning I tried a 
> pice of lestover PnP paper and besides minor smear in one section 
it 
> transfered really good. What I'm saying is that if its a lot of 
work 
> to transfer the traces using other papers then I'll just stick to 
the 
> PnP. I mean is expensive but if it works?!! However, I won't give 
up 
> on other papers becuase the price and availability are just too 
good 
> to ignore.
> 
> > 
> > JT
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 8:33 PM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: to drill or not to drill part 2
> > 
> > 
> > > yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper.  92 white, 
24 
> lb.
> > > Look in the database section of this group for the exact 
details 
> but
> > > I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work.  The 
good
> > > news is it costs about $5/500 sheets.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thank you,
> > > >
> > > >    now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular white
> > > paper?
> > > >
> > > >   Another important question. Onced I finished I put the 
> leftover
> > > > FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a little 
bit
> > > left
> > > > in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with lots 
of
> > > > water. My question is should I neutralize that little 
leftover 
> with
> > > > something. I mean I want to do things right and protect the
> > > > enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do is 
> take my
> > > > ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since is 
for 
> non
> > > > comercial use then its free.
> > > >
> > > > > Congrats on progress.  It is very satisfying to see that 
> pattern
> > > > come
> > > > > out on the copper.
> > > > >
> > > > > You really dont need to use PnP.  Try, instead, using a 
decent
> > > > > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special 
coatings, ...).  
> Use
> > > a
> > > > > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of 
> pressure.  I
> > > > use
> > > > > kids construction paper between the iron and the transfer 
> paper
> > > to
> > > > > even out the irregularities.   Once you are done with the
> > > ironing,
> > > > > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the board/paper 
> until
> > > it
> > > > > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure good 
toner
> > > > > adhesion to the copper.  this process is highly reliable 
for 
> me
> > > and
> > > > > the last few boards I did required NO touching up.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas"
> > > > > <geovar13@h...> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >    Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty good. 
I
> > > > though
> > > > > it
> > > > > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most 
people
> > > > advice
> > > > > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in the 
> pads
> > > > did
> > > > > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because 
there 
> is
> > > no
> > > > > > copper there.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >    Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I found 
out 
> that
> > > > my
> > > > > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the 
pads 
> with
> > > a
> > > > > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets 
left. 
> So
> > > > > after
> > > > > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud you 
can 
> use
> > > > > staple
> > > > > > photo paper.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
> > > > > >
> > > > > >   Now I tried using this process on another blank PCB. I 
> dodn't
> > > > > know
> > > > > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the 
toner 
> but
> > > a
> > > > > lot
> > > > > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at least 5
> > > times
> > > > > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. I 
> would
> > > > like
> > > > > to
> > > > > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you can 
get
> > > 200
> > > > > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I 
cant 
> make
> > > > it
> > > > > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did
> > > > > >
> > > > > >    I made the print out on the glossy side. I preheated 
the
> > > > copper
> > > > > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of 
paper 
> on
> > > > top
> > > > > of
> > > > > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the iron.I 
> Iron
> > > > that
> > > > > > thing left and right and any which way possible aplying 
> various
> > > > > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water then 
I
> > > gave
> > > > it
> > > > > a
> > > > > > hot water bath. Now  the hot water was not boiling just 
as 
> hot
> > > as
> > > > I
> > > > > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the paper 
off 
> and
> > > > > only
> > > > > > a few traces stuck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >   In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie in 
my
> > > board
> > > > > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 tries 
to 
> get
> > > > the
> > > > > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too 
well. 
> The
> > > > > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was a 
> mirror
> > > > > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with the 
> photo
> > > > > paper
> > > > > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is 
> expensive.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and 
> files:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >