yes, I use office despot general use inkjet paper. 92 white, 24 lb. Look in the database section of this group for the exact details but I think any good quality inkjet printer paper will work. The good news is it costs about $5/500 sheets. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" <geovar13@h...> wrote: > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote: > > Thank you, > > now what exactly is inkjet paper. Is that the regular white paper? > > Another important question. Onced I finished I put the leftover > FerricCloride back in the bottle. However there was a little bit left > in the container I did the etching. I watch it out with lots of > water. My question is should I neutralize that little leftover with > something. I mean I want to do things right and protect the > enviroment. I found out that in my area all I have to do is take my > ferric cloride bottle to a collection facility and since is for non > comercial use then its free. > > > Congrats on progress. It is very satisfying to see that pattern > come > > out on the copper. > > > > You really dont need to use PnP. Try, instead, using a decent > > quality inkjet paper (not glossy, no special coatings, ...). Use a > > very hot iron (cotton, highest setting) and lots of pressure. I > use > > kids construction paper between the iron and the transfer paper to > > even out the irregularities. Once you are done with the ironing, > > turn off the iron but leave it sitting on the board/paper until it > > cools down a bit (below the fusing point) to ensure good toner > > adhesion to the copper. this process is highly reliable for me and > > the last few boards I did required NO touching up. > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mr_gees100_peas" > > <geovar13@h...> wrote: > > > > > > > > > Ok, today I did my first PCB. It tuen out pretty good. I > though > > it > > > would be a little bit more complicated. I follow most people > advice > > > and drilled at after the etching procees. The hole in the pads > did > > > worked as a guide plus it was eaier to drill because there is no > > > copper there. > > > > > > Before I did the etching I was at a dilema. I found out that > my > > > pads where too small. My options where to enlarge the pads with a > > > Sharpie or redo the drawing. I only have 3 PnP sheets left. So > > after > > > a little bit of search I found a website that saud you can use > > staple > > > photo paper. > > > > > > http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm > > > > > > Now I tried using this process on another blank PCB. I dodn't > > know > > > but I can't make it work. I can transfer some of the toner but a > > lot > > > of the traces did not stick. I did this process at least 5 times > > > maybe more. The results where not satifactory for me. I would > like > > to > > > hear from somebody about this because at staples you can get 200 > > > sheets for $30. That is cheap. On the other hand if I cant make > it > > > work then is no good to me. Here is what I did > > > > > > I made the print out on the glossy side. I preheated the > copper > > > board then I put the printout. I but a black piece of paper on > top > > of > > > the printout because the photo paper sticks to the iron.I Iron > that > > > thing left and right and any which way possible aplying various > > > pressures. When I was done I ran it under cold water then I gave > it > > a > > > hot water bath. Now the hot water was not boiling just as hot as > I > > > could get it from the faucet. I tried peeling the paper off and > > only > > > a few traces stuck. > > > > > > In the end I just filled in the pads with a Sharpie in my board > > > that I did using the PnP paper. It only took me 3 tries to get > the > > > PnP to work right. The first one it did not stick too well. The > > > second one was a an aligment problem. or maybe it was a mirror > > > problem. Unless someone can tell me whats wrong with the photo > > paper > > > technique I'm sticking with the PnP even though is expensive.
Message
Re: to drill or not to drill part 2
2004-03-28 by Phil
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