I actually tried this. It works ok but you do have to create your own
library parts (not a big deal). A somewhat minor problem is that you
wind up with a bigger footprint than through-hole. I did clip of all
but about 50 mils of the flat part of the leg but it still is
bigger. I also found it a bit tricky getting the legs to all sit
exactly flat. SMT parts are very available and have a much smaller
footprint so I didn't bother beyond one experiment.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, John Johnson <johnatl@m...>
wrote:
library parts (not a big deal). A somewhat minor problem is that you
wind up with a bigger footprint than through-hole. I did clip of all
but about 50 mils of the flat part of the leg but it still is
bigger. I also found it a bit tricky getting the legs to all sit
exactly flat. SMT parts are very available and have a much smaller
footprint so I didn't bother beyond one experiment.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, John Johnson <johnatl@m...>
wrote:
> You know, I've been wondering why people drill holes at all.adjust
> How about SMDIP (Surface mount DIP) instead of SMT?
> I.e. design your board so that the components mount on the
> trace side of the board. To mount DIPs, bend the legs out 90 degrees
> and solder it down like a surface mount device. You would have to
> the width between the rows of pads to account for the extra width.Using
> Eagle's Offset Pads would probably do the trick. You can alsosurface
> mount normal, visible, passive components. Drill holes forconnectors
> and things that need physical strength. You could probably do doublewrote:
> sided boards like this, even with components on both sides.
> Drilling the vias, of course.
>
> Regards,
> JJ
>
> On Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004, at 10:01 US/Eastern, mr_gees100_peas
>confident
> >
> > Hi I've ben reading this group for a while and I feel
> > enough to make my firt PCB. I decided to use the PnP transferpaper
> > and iron it on. Right now I manage to transfer my design to acopper
> > bard fairly well. The thing is that I see all those holes and theyfew
> > are so smal. I hear some people drill the holes after they etch
> > becase they can use the hole as a guide. Well, I tried driling a
> > holes in a practice pice of copper board nd I keep missing themark.
> > The board an't een etch yet but I wondering if I should drill thetransfering my
> > holes fist that way I can add more resist in case I screw up.
> >
> > My second question is about sharpie pen. When I was
> > desing a few pads and trces did not transfer properly. I took afiles:
> > sharpie pen and fille in the missing gap. Will the sharpie resist
> > ferric cloride or will it fail?
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >