Homebrew PCBs

Please mebo
( i hope this is how you like to be called...)

Do not attempt to color the resist any more.
It is really not needed and it adds a unknown variable with
maybe very bad results. (see the black paint).
You want to reduce variables, not add them.

I hope it is not too expensive to change this head....

I also hope you tell me if you plan to try sharpie or staedtler red ink.

The coloring seems to add a huge unpredictable risk, you do not
konw if the color itself, or in combination/reaction with the resist
will cause problems.

On the other hand i do not think the color will improove the resist 
functionality.
It is only for visibility i assume. I do not deny that this will be a very 
important
feature in the final mixture but i do think that we have time then to try 
which colorant
is suited for the resist.

When you have the heads i would first try the acrylic floor polish.
try it as it comes out from the can (it it is the same density as the bona 
polish
i have it seems not to be too thick).
You may also try to dilute it first to 50% or 25%, to be sure it will not 
clog the head.
if the resist layer is too thin then (which i expect) you can try thicker 
stuff.

You should be able to see the layer of clear laquer if you hold the board 
at an angle
against a light source. of course you also should immediately see the 
result in the etchant.
Make sure the polish is completely dry (maybe dry in a oven).


Best luck with your next experiment..

ST



On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 18:50:03 -0800 (PST), pebo festus <mebo31@...> 
wrote:

> yes st, i mixed mop&glo with artist black acrylic
> paint,the paint seperated from the water in the
> mixture. I could not get the printer to print, so I
> took the cart apart(prized the top off) took out the
> spoung and there is a micro screen over the orfice
> going to the print heads. the paint pluged it up.had a
> dickens of a time getting that screen clean. then i
> cleaned my print head again and it was kinda stopped
> up ,but got ammonia through it again. went to the
> store and bought a bottle of black ritz dye, put some
> of it and some more mop&glow in the cart and it still
> didnt work out. i will order 2 new carts monday and
> see if the regular ink will still print. will take two
> or three days for them to arrive. am thinking now of
> changing from mop&glo to Johnsons acrylic liquid floor
> wax with just a touch of ritz dye in it. will see if
> that stops things up.now that i know how the carts are
> made it will be easier to work with them.i have a air
> compresser and can blow back through the screen in the
> cart and maybe clean it. i have seen on other posts
> that some folks are looking at alps heated impact
> printers, if i can find one that works one may get
> into that also.
> mebo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> ok, thanks.. (is laytex a company or what? is it
>> latex paint?????????)
>>
>> good luck... hope you get that thing cleaned out
>> again for further
>> trying..
>>
>> can you get your hands on red staedtler ink?
>> i really think this is a good candidate..
>>
>> Did you try the mop'n glo again with the flushed
>> head?
>>
>> Please describe what the current status is,
>> is the problem the layer thickness/consistency?
>> or are not all jets printing full amount?
>>
>>
>> I would first try acrylic paint, like floor polish,
>> as thick at it fits through,
>> then i would try the staedtler red,
>> and maybe another option could be UV curing ink.
>> (i think it allows slightly thicker layers with the
>> same initial amount
>> because there is no solvent, or is there?)
>>
>> Keep us informed..
>>
>> ST
>>
>>
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