Homebrew PCBs

yes st, i mixed mop&glo with artist black acrylic
paint,the paint seperated from the water in the
mixture. I could not get the printer to print, so I
took the cart apart(prized the top off) took out the
spoung and there is a micro screen over the orfice
going to the print heads. the paint pluged it up.had a
dickens of a time getting that screen clean. then i
cleaned my print head again and it was kinda stopped
up ,but got ammonia through it again. went to the
store and bought a bottle of black ritz dye, put some
of it and some more mop&glow in the cart and it still
didnt work out. i will order 2 new carts monday and
see if the regular ink will still print. will take two
or three days for them to arrive. am thinking now of
changing from mop&glo to Johnsons acrylic liquid floor
wax with just a touch of ritz dye in it. will see if
that stops things up.now that i know how the carts are
made it will be easier to work with them.i have a air
compresser and can blow back through the screen in the
cart and maybe clean it. i have seen on other posts
that some folks are looking at alps heated impact
printers, if i can find one that works one may get
into that also.
mebo






 
> ok, thanks.. (is laytex a company or what? is it
> latex paint?????????)
> 
> good luck... hope you get that thing cleaned out
> again for further
> trying..
> 
> can you get your hands on red staedtler ink?
> i really think this is a good candidate..
> 
> Did you try the mop'n glo again with the flushed
> head?
> 
> Please describe what the current status is,
> is the problem the layer thickness/consistency?
> or are not all jets printing full amount?
> 
> 
> I would first try acrylic paint, like floor polish,
> as thick at it fits through,
> then i would try the staedtler red,
> and maybe another option could be UV curing ink.
> (i think it allows slightly thicker layers with the
> same initial amount
> because there is no solvent, or is there?)
> 
> Keep us informed..
> 
> ST
> 
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