Homebrew PCBs

In a message dated 3/3/2004 11:06:18 AM Central Standard Time, 
ap_leapyear@... writes:
What's the best way to deal with the problem of through holes for these? 

Assume you have a "pad" on top, as well as bottom, for each "through-hole" 
you need?  As the pins you mention are generally square (not round, filling the 
hole), you can usually get away with some bits of (sliver-plated, usually!) 
wire-wrap wire, #28 or #30 ga., stripped.  

Put the end of a length through the hole, bend it over sharply on top, and 
solder it to the pad, NOT filling the hole.  MIGHT take some practice, 
particularly if you are coordination-challenged or have less than twenty years 
solder-fiddling.  You MIGHT even want to insert a temporary NON-solderable pin of some 
kind (black drill-bit shank?) which fills the hole, and then bend that thin 
wire around that bit, over the pad, so you can solder "all around".  Then clip 
off the wire below so that a bit of it remains below.  Repeat for all "needed 
PTH holes".  THEN insert your connector, and solder a couple of pads that do 
NOT have these "through wires", to HOLD the thing in place.  Now neatly bend 
these stubs of thru-wires around the pins, and solder all conventionally.  There 
you have a "hidden" jumper soldered on top as well as bottom.  Works for me!  
        However, the tiny rivets are SO much nicer that I generally at least 
TRY to use those where I can.  BUT, if I ever do, I ALWAYS solder them on top, 
being sure solder "wicks" under the heads!  Yes, they DO require larger holes 
drilled for them, but sometimes that is just "life"!  Also, if their heads 
are TOO large, sometimes they are "too close" for 0.1" IC spacing, etc.  Just 
part of the hobby!  

One other thing that makes all this top/bottom soldering easier, AND makes 
the boards look and STAY-looking nicer is to use "Tinnit" solution (PER 
instructions!) to Sn-plate the copper.  Some do this as "resist" and some do it AFTER 
etching, and even "re-flow" with heat, as the professional boards are 
generally done.  Sadly, the Tinnit solids don't seem to have much shelf-life!  SOME 
vendor should WORK on that for us, doncha think?????!!!!!!!!!

Jan Rowland


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