Homebrew PCBs

Hey JT.
  You know, at our comapany, we use paper-thin copper sheets for the 
in-between layers of multi-layer boards.  One night, I got the idea 
of sending one of these through our LaserJet printer.  It didn't 
work at all.  It's not that it didn't make it through, but the toner 
just couldn't stick to the copper.  I think it must have to do with 
the static charging the printer does to the material it is printing 
on to make the toner stick before fusing.  For some reason, metal 
just doesn't work.  Not to get your hopes down, but just thought I'd 
share my results.

-Josh



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "cdaw01" <jt@j...> wrote:
> Greetings.
> Out of a lack of interesting things to do, I attempted TT 
> I tried about 7 different papers I had laying around, and came 
> across something that is working really well. Cannon HR-101 High 
> resolution inkjet paper, only catch is, it works best if printed 
on 
> the wrong side, as the good side has a plasticy coating, that 
tends 
> to stick to the board as well as the toner. When used backwards, 
> it's kind of gripy to the laminator or iron base, but this seems 
to 
> subside rather quickly, a quick dip in cool water, and the plastic 
> film peels off in one piece, and the rest of the paper backing 
> washes off quite easily. Using a clinky ole IBM 4019 (ebay for 
$25, 
> at 300dpi, I'm printing .016 traces from eagle, and they are 
coming 
> out solid, better than I could ever hope for printing film from 
this 
> printer. I have an Optra R+ with 64M (6X9 at 1200dpi) I usually 
use 
> for film, but I got this ebay deal - for a couple of reasons, It 
has 
> a straight thru manaul feed, I was going to attempt to feed a 
board 
> directly thu- but I'm not going to try that till the toner is near 
> gone, way I see it It'll either work, or totally fudge the drum 
(in 
> this case it's in the tonar cartridge and is replaced with a new 
one 
> (like most laser printers) ot all the toner will wind up on the 
> fusers brush. 
> 
> JT