Homebrew PCBs

I just have to say...WOW!  FINALLY!!!  After so many attempts with 
different papers, methods, and whatnots, I finally have something 
I'm proud to show off.  
  Stephan, you were absolutely right, a printer's fuser works 
incredibly well.  I did some tests on the fuser I am using (from an 
old HP LaserJet IIIp), and found that a temp of 180 deg C 
corresponded to around 1.65K of resistance from the internal 
thermostat.  I ran the temp up no higher than that after my initial 
experience with parts melting.
  I scrubbed the board with a Scotch Brite pad under running water 
before hand, and didn't use alcohol or anything else chemical...just 
a rinse in water to prep.  Then, I printed my circuit with some of 
the cheapest photo paper I could find - it's listed in our group's 
papers area of the files section - HammerMill Jet Print Photo Multi-
Project Photo Paper, Gloss Finish, Medium Weight.
  Since I didn't have the gearing intact from the printer anymore, I 
let the fuser heat, then unplugged it, and pushed the board through 
by hand.  (Only about half of it was needed for my circuit design, 
the other half was a handle).  It was actually cool if you grabbed 
it by the sides.
  I went VERY slow through the fuser.  For my 4 inch long design, I 
stopped half way through, after about 15 seconds, to re-heat it, 
then continue on.  After 3 back and forth passes (in each direction, 
making 6 exposures to the heat), I flipped the board and did 3 more, 
for a total of 12.  One roller is hard, while the other is softer 
rubber.  I think it's the rubber side that does most of the 
transfering, so that was why the flipping.
  After that, I put the board immediately in cold water and let it 
soak for around 15 minutes.
  Success.  I put some photos in the photo area.

  Thanks everybody for all your help.  This is great.

-Josh
Pullman, WA