congratulation
cold you post some picture of the equipment? and some schematics maybe?
the fuser works ok even if you dont use it at full power.think of him as a light bulb.
the new type fusers work at a lower temperature (around 120 celsis) the older around 180 celsius.youu could use the original stepper motor to drive the fuser.just make a driver for the stepper with L297 and 4 power fet transistors.(search the net for milling machines)
Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
Hi all,
Good news, the Fuser works perfectly.
I have set it to 160 degree C (measured) and it worked not very well the
first time.
(i let the board through maybe 6 times and only in one orientation, back
and forth (hand drive).
each pass was about 7 seconds (one direction) )
about half of the tracks did come off after soaking.
BAD.
I did decide it may need longer fusing.
cleaned, printed, starting over again.
10 passes this time.
VERY slow, 10-15 seconds one pass.
i put it through a different side first each time.
took some time, BUT it worked perfectly.
not a single piece of toner did come off.
even the board outline is complete this time which i never achieved using
the iron.
(the last time using the iron i decided i make a second board outline just
outside
the first, hoping it will take the damage.. - wrong guess, both went off.)
so, the short story:
A fuser works VERY WELL.
i took the unit out of a ricoh copier.
I need to make a motor for it now, with slow gearing.
and i need to put the thermostat in a housing.
(does anyone know if it harms the quartz heater lamp running
on "orange" half power, because then i will add some hysteresis
to get it either full on of full off....??)
If anyone is still using a iron -> get yourself a fuser or a laminator.
it IS worth the effort, i had strong doubt but the result is convincing.
there is about 10 to 20% widening of the tracks, i may just draw thinner
ones
or maybe play with the pressure springs. they are on the front lifting
the bearings of the lower roller with levers, easily acessible, i could
even use a adjusting screw (for different board sizes)...
ST
Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links
---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
cold you post some picture of the equipment? and some schematics maybe?
the fuser works ok even if you dont use it at full power.think of him as a light bulb.
the new type fusers work at a lower temperature (around 120 celsis) the older around 180 celsius.youu could use the original stepper motor to drive the fuser.just make a driver for the stepper with L297 and 4 power fet transistors.(search the net for milling machines)
Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
Hi all,
Good news, the Fuser works perfectly.
I have set it to 160 degree C (measured) and it worked not very well the
first time.
(i let the board through maybe 6 times and only in one orientation, back
and forth (hand drive).
each pass was about 7 seconds (one direction) )
about half of the tracks did come off after soaking.
BAD.
I did decide it may need longer fusing.
cleaned, printed, starting over again.
10 passes this time.
VERY slow, 10-15 seconds one pass.
i put it through a different side first each time.
took some time, BUT it worked perfectly.
not a single piece of toner did come off.
even the board outline is complete this time which i never achieved using
the iron.
(the last time using the iron i decided i make a second board outline just
outside
the first, hoping it will take the damage.. - wrong guess, both went off.)
so, the short story:
A fuser works VERY WELL.
i took the unit out of a ricoh copier.
I need to make a motor for it now, with slow gearing.
and i need to put the thermostat in a housing.
(does anyone know if it harms the quartz heater lamp running
on "orange" half power, because then i will add some hysteresis
to get it either full on of full off....??)
If anyone is still using a iron -> get yourself a fuser or a laminator.
it IS worth the effort, i had strong doubt but the result is convincing.
there is about 10 to 20% widening of the tracks, i may just draw thinner
ones
or maybe play with the pressure springs. they are on the front lifting
the bearings of the lower roller with levers, easily acessible, i could
even use a adjusting screw (for different board sizes)...
ST
Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]