Homebrew PCBs

Well Steve,
           I think you hit a home run with that idea! After the
bit does a large board it's just about shot. Having it mill a
spliting line is doable at the end of the run. The boards I buy
look snapped after being scribed. A milling channel is much deeper so
it should work better.

                                        John



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., Steve Greenfield <alienrelics@y...> wrote:
> I'm figuring that with your milling setup, you could have another
> pass, set to cut deeper, then just snap them along that line.
> 
> Of course, from what you say the PCB stock wears bits out -very-
> fast so that might not be the most financially wise way to do that.
> 
> Steve Greenfield
> 
> --- crankorgan <john@k...> wrote:
> > Steve,
> >       I use precut surplus PCB stock. I think I saw on Think and 
> > Tinker that the Mechanical Etching bits can be used to scribe and
> > snap board. I have a feeling this only works with some types. I
> > scribe and snap Perfboard on the holes.
> > 
> >                                             John 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., Steve Greenfield <alienrelics@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > I saw a website where someone just took a dremel and fiber
> > cutting
> > > wheel, mounted the dremel over the top of the board and then
> > just
> > > pushes the board underneath it. I think he used one of those
> > > flexible extensions so he could get the cutting wheel low
> > enough to
> > > the board and still at 90 degrees to it.
> > > 
> > > You could do the same with that small air die grinder at Harbor
> > > Freight Tools, it is about the diameter of a marker.
> > > 
> > > Of course, with a shear you don't have the worries about dust.
> > You
> > > do -not- want to breath the fiberglass and resin dust from
> > cutting
> > > PCBs.
> > > 
> > > Steve Greenfield
> 
> 
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