Homebrew PCBs

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 21:58:46 -0000, pebo festus <mebo31@...> wrote:

> i finally got around to using soidium silicate(water glass)on a small
> piece of pcb. i hardened it with co2(carbon dioxide), then etched
> with ferric chloride?(sp).i used a tooth pick and put some small
> dots,large dot and a line of water glass on the board, then hardened
> and etched, it came out excelant.i noticed a very small dot that i
> put on there, it was about .005 of an inch. NOW -if i can gat an
> inkjet printer to handle the water glass and a streight through feed
> for the pcb i will be in business.
> if any one has any suggestion on what printer to use i would
> appreceiate it.i dont know which would be best-a pezeio or heated ink
> head. the water glass has some water in it. JUST LOOKIN FOR SOME
> THOUGHTS FROM OTHERS.
> mebo
>

Don't waste your time with a thermo printer.
I tried with acrylic paint (water solube strongly diluted in the form of 
floor polish).
If you have any chance to get this working it is with a piezo.


Also keep in mind that anything works "toothpick applied".
e.g. use colophony resin solved in alcohol or paint thinner.
works perfectly if applied with a brush (or toothpick).
dries in seconds to minutes in air (no hardening).
is a good resist, and a very good flux also as a side effect.

Problem: i won't "toothpick" my pcbs and i found no way applying it
by printing.


Nearly any laquer will work very well as a resist.
the hard part is to get it printed in a thick enough even enough continous 
layer.
i personaly very much wonder why you insist on using water glass.
(what is the reason?) i would rather try the acrylic paint with a piezo.
I see no advantage in a resist that is water soluble and needs co2 
hardening.

looking forward to any results you get..

ST