The fuser is not used in the hack, so when the pcb comes out of the printer the toner is held in place by static electricity. You can easily wipe if off with a paper towel, but it is held very tightly, and you can tap it quite vigorously without dislodging the toner.
What I do is put a small amount of acetone in a closed container and suspend the pcb over the vapor. It will fuse to the copper in 2-3 minutes, but you leave in there for 15-20 minutes, the toner softens then flows a tiny bit to cover any pinholes, then fuses very tightly to the copper.
Mark
At 03:45 PM 10/26/2016, you wrote:
what does that mean.... "acetone vapor to fuse"
On 10/26/2016 03:14 PM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
It's my Instructable they're quoting. I paid $25 each for a couple of these little printers, including shipping from Newegg. They conversion is relatively straightforward, and works very well. Anytime I want to do a board, I just pull it off the shelf and print. Works every time, no fuss or mess. I use acetone vapor to fuse the toner to the copper, so no laminator necessary.
Mark
At 05:27 PM 10/25/2016, you wrote:
Anyone else see this Hackaday post about hacking a Pantum 2500 to direct print toner on PCBs?
http://hackaday.com/2016/10/25/want-to-make-a-pcb-the-pantum-knows/
The Pantum 2502W is under $40 with free shipping on Amazon and claims 1200x1200dpi resolution.
https://www.amazon.com/Pantum-P2502W-Wireless-Monochrome-Printer/dp/B00N517VDK
Steve Greenfield AE7HD http://www.linkedin.com/in/stevenjgreenfield