Homebrew PCBs

I could not get consistent results with the cold transfer method using 
100% acetone and 90% rubbing alcohol.
I used an eyedropper and dropped 16 drops of alcohol and 6 drops of 
acetone into a shot glass..stirred...
then wet the copper board with the mixture...then laid the artwork on 
the copper face down.... the paper would saturate...then evaporate all 
the liquid... then peel off.

I consistently got the image to melt off the paper but it would just rub 
off the copper.... didn't stick like
heated copper took the toner.... thats when I turned to HEAT

My HEAT controller project
Definitely DID get the desired results using a $1 PIC16F628
ANYone could repeat this using the freebie PICbasic compiler at MELABS.com
which is limited to 31 lines of code..... but no worries there......mine 
didn't use 20 lines of code.

http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/pic/lcdexp02.jpg
http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/pic/dremel60AWG.jpg
Total project cost less than $10 and will turn on a heater until it 
reaches a desired temperature.
http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/pic/index.html

The goal started with a laminator to do 340 F toner transfer but lead to 
ANY heat control project could be  done with this circuit..... 
laminator, toaster oven, hot plate, clothes dryer.... wanna bake some 
cookies?

http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/hotcakes.html



On 10/04/2016 07:46 PM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>
>  Tried the "cold toner transfer" process today using what I had
> at home, acetone and 80-proof vodka (40% alcohol by volume) for my 
> solvent.
> Printed the PCB artwork on standard, white, office paper using my HP 
> Laserjet. Using the 8:3 mix and didn't get any transfer to the copper.
>
> So I dabbed the solvent onto the other toner patterns on the paper
> and let it set half an hour before I tried rubbing it off again.   
> Still wouldn't lift off the paper. D'OH!   I forgot to print it  onto 
> something slippery. So I printed four patterns on Oracal 651 vinyl for 
> another go at it.
>
> Did everything according to the video, but the part where the paper 
> and plastic are supposed to peel off the board, leaving the toner 
> still sticking, failed miserably.
>
> So I added another capful of acetone to the bottle, put the cap back 
> on and shook it up,  and tried again.  No results.
>
> I repeated the above two sentences about three more times.   Still the 
> toner did not detach from the Oracal.  So I let put a few drops of 
> solvent onto a different piece of Oracal with a toner pattern printed 
> on it, and let it sit about half an hour.
> Then I could rub the toner off with my thumb, but it took a good bit 
> of pressure to lift the toner from the plastic.
>
> This was my first try to use the  "heatless" toner transfer.   I think
> I'll buy some 100% ethanol (grain alcohol) and try again later in the
> week, unless somebody has a better idea.
>
>
>