OK on the quiet vacuum and the dust scoop, Harvey.
I looked at the drill press/camera device and found it
interesting. I downloaded the info and will take a good
look at it. Thanks!
Charlie
suggested.>Thanks for the advice Harvey...I'll look into the methods
>you
scoop>I have a very quiet vacuum, so it is on all the time with an air
to remove the board swarf.
vacuum>
>Yeah, the swarf from the board is a problem...have a
>at hand, but some kind of automatic "vac as you go"method
>would be best.
I have a very crude (but quite workable) air scoop made from the
crevice tool of a regular vacuum. Works surprisingly well.
crevice tool of a regular vacuum. Works surprisingly well.
You can get very very close with a vertical alignment drill press,
and
not so close when you have to match the hole at an extreme angle.
not so close when you have to match the hole at an extreme angle.
Harvey
[Homebrew_PCBs]">
>Charlie
>
>mosaicmerc@...
>>> I use resharpened carbide in my dremel 395 with1/8" shanks for PCB
>>> work. They work fine....I go down to around0.31 mm. I can go smaller
>>> but bit breaking happens every 10holes or so.
>>switched to a home-brew drill
>>>Me too, but I rarely break bits since I
>>stand that seems to eliminate any "handwobble" from causing breakage.
>>drill lots of holes with resharpened carbide and a
>>>My CNC machine can
>>Grizzlypencil-style die grinder.
>>holding of the dremel is more important than
>>>Perhaps rigidity in the
>>runout? Or at least,*lack* of rigidity is more common as a cause of
>>breakage?href="mailto:dj@...">dj@...>
>>
>>>Posted by: DJ Delorie <
>>purchased a drill stand from Sears quite a few years ago. It
>>I
>>hadrun-out, but I cured that by tightening/adjusting all the
>>criticalscrews that caused the run-out. Works just fine since
>>then, and nobreakage of carbide drill bits either. I'm using
>>a Dremmel with thecollets, mostly the 1/8" size. I gotta say
>>though that the stand sureis CHEAPLY made....lots of plastic
>>parts. Once when using the stand,the sector gear that raises/lowers
>>the drill carriage broke!! (Cheapplastic!!!) I made another gear out
>>of some thick aluminum and it'sbeen good ever since.
>>the PC board on the exact
>>My bigest problem is positioning
>>center of the pads. My drilling is closebut most of the time not
>>dead-on especially if the pad's center holesdon't get etched
>>away. I installed a 12v light bulb under the standand
>>that helps to illuminate the pad locations, butstill.....
>looking straight
>You're looking at parallax as a problem. You're not
>down on where the hole should be.option would be to put a webcam under the board, illuminate the
>
>One
>bottom,and drill from there. Your only problem would be the swarf
>from theboard.
>from the
>Mine is upside down, with the camera above and the drill
>bottom. It's a bit more complicated mechanically, and involvessome
>programming and a stepper motor.press with a bottom view (and a vacuum sucking
>
>However, a top drill
>off the swarf) would be apossible good idea.
>test hole
>You drill from the side where the pads are.
>
>A good set of movable crosshairs (if there's any play) and a
>when the drill is changed ought to get you very veryclose.
>made a larger platform out of some
>Harvey
>
>>
>>On my drill stand I
>>1/8" smooth hardboard so I coulduse a homebrew
>>moveable fence that clamps to the edges of thehardboard.
>>Using that sure made drilling easy when I needed toneatly drill
>>holes in a row like for IC's.
>>
>>Charlie
>
>