Using photoresist and 20mW 405nm laser works nice. I use cheap ebay laser and got spot under 0.08mm in one direction and 0.1 in other (spot is oval not round.) Now I wait to get stronger laser to crank up speed. Now I need aprox 15minutes for 100x160mm board raster scanned. I do try to implement solder resist too but need 10x more power. (I slow down scanning 10 times and paint solidify) but that's inpractical. Hope that with new laser I got solder resist curing under 10 minutes and photoresist sensitizing undef 5 minutes (speed of mechanic is limiting factor and laser driver too as frequency approach 1MHz.) Slavko. On 10. 12. 2014 06:43, 'Jeff Heiss' jeff.heiss@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote: > > > I think there are two options to achieve a small spot size. The first > is a collimating lens. The second is a fiber laser which is just a > laser diode sold with a fiber attached. I think both will achieve a > spot size about 0.1mm (0.004\u201d). Can someone comment if this is > correct? Lenses are fiber lasers are sold on Ebay. A microscope > objective also works for a collimating lens. > > I would like to avoid photoresist because \u2013 > > No developing step > > No preheating the developer > > No developer required > > No photoresist required > > Quality of traces improves with no overdeveloping some areas and > underdeveloping others > > Cost is lower > > No photoresist film application step \u2013 the most error producing step > in the whole board making process from my experience > > No laminator required for applying the photoresist > > No modifying laminators for the correct photoresist application > temperature > > No guessing how good the photoresist is from age since the last time > you used it > > Jeff > > *From:*Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 09, 2014 12:57 PM > *To:* Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: laser ablation of paint on copper clad > > why using the paint, this should also work with the presensitised clad > boards. If you use a UV laser in the right wavelengt of the > photoresist. I have being pondeingr over this myself, but never though > to have a suitable beam that can be controlled in width from let say > 0.1 to 0.5 mm. I was even thinking of making my boards myself, by > submerging the board completely in UV cureable photoresist, and then > centrifuge it with high speed, so that the centrifugal force would > make the layer of resist so equal as possibe. A brushless motor from > old drive would be good for this, just have to make a reliable holder > to keep the board from flying away...LOL. > > If you have more information about laser control, specialy the focus > part, then please would you care to send it to me or post it here? > > thanks. > > Camillus > > On 12/9/2014 7:25:07 AM, Howard Chester howard.chester@... > <mailto:howard.chester@...> [Homebrew_PCBs] > <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com > <mailto:homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>> wrote: > > Jeff posted, > > >I\u2019m mentally exploring the idea of spray painting copper clad with > spray paint and drawing traces in the paint >with a laser. After > the laser, the board is then placed in etchant and the copper > exposed by the laser is >etched away. I understand this is > possible with 20W CO2 lasers by Youtube videos but has anyone > >explored this with a laser diode? Is the abundant ebay 445nm, > 1W laser or the 808nm, 3W laser up for >the task paint ablation? > > >Jeff > > Hello Jeff, > > Just a few words of my musings... > > Why not try to replace the high power LASER with a 400nm Ultra > Violet Soild State Laser Diode combined with a CD/DVD optic sled > unit to expose a UV resist PCB? > > A few advantages;- > > 1) Lower power equals safer working enviroment > > 2) Ease of use, the CD/DVD has a constant correcting focus control > loop. This would probably allow tracks in the sub mm > range(0.2mm?). As the visable red dot shining through the prism > bounces back from the PCB, mixing the nearly invisible UV beam on > the opposite side of the prism assembly by delivering the beam via > a short lenght of cladded fiber through the unpopulated side of > the prism. > > 3) A secondry advantage of the visible red dot is easy and > accurate registration when doing double sided PCB's. > > 4) By tapping into the beam control(constant amplitude loop that > monitors the reflected beam power to compensate for impurities on > CD/DVD's (analog available at the red laser diode Anode-Cathode > as a varying Current through the red Diode)) would allow for a > "Resist thickness vs stepping motor delay" as well as slaving the > UV LASER drive current. > > 5) Modern Micro-stepping Motor drive IC's would maximise the > resolution of the optics, unless you use the optics of the "sled" > control. In which case the resolution could be in the micro/nano > meter range. > > 6) Cost, a UV LASER Diode module costs about 45 Bucks vs BIG bucks > for a large LASER, Drive Electronics and the delivery optics. > > / have pondered this concept for a while now but declining health > has force my early retirement/and as such, my access to the > nessessary engineering tools. > > As stated, just my musings... > > Good-luck with you project, chester > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > <http://www.avast.com/> > > > > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com <http://www.avast.com/> > > > >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: laser ablation of paint on copper clad
2014-12-10 by Slavko Kocjancic
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