Homebrew PCBs

I use Icewater. No problems with the transfer, no pinholes etc.  When I am using ferric everything works fine I only get problems when I tried electrolytic etching with copper sulfate as electrolyte. There the toner gets just eaten away i a short time, while after etching in ferric I have to remove it with acetone because it sticks still very good.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...> wrote:
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> Did you freeze the paper after thermal transfer, or just soak in water. 
> Freezing for 20 mins. to 1/2 hour gives a denser transfer and easier paper removal.
> 
> Malcolm
> 
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
> 
> --------------------------------------------
> On Sun, 9/22/13, rolynd33 <roland.rasch@...> wrote:
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>  Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Some etched Artwork finished and questions on electrolytic etching
>  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>  Date: Sunday, September 22, 2013, 11:18 AM
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>        I recently finished some etched Pendants.
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>  You can see sone photos here:
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>  http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,41175.0.html
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>  I used the toner Transfer method and ferric chloride with
>  good results . The etch is fairly deep compared to the usual
>  etch depth needed for PCB but detail is still very good.
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>  I alternatively tried the electrolytic etch method with not
>  so much sucess. I use canon Toner and it seems it does not
>  hold up to a copper sulfate electrolyte. Its fine in
>  chlorides though but the saltwater etch presented its own
>  problems, a white precipitate forms on the etched piece
>  eating the toner. Another member suggested HP toner. 
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>  I want to try making the electrolytic etch to work, before I
>  get myself a new/used HP printer I wanted to ask here if
>  someone can confirm the usability of HP toner or maybe has
>  experience with the electrolytic etch method and copper
>  sulfate?
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