Hi Clark, I haven't yet tried the process with the "China" paper, whatever it is... I did get some to try when I have time (which won't be soon, due to other projects). It appears somewhat similar to the backing on contact paper. I have on occasion used plastic model paint to touchup pinholes if they apear too big for the green film to cover... many decisions are variable based on the overall size and geometry of the parts to be etched. The parts I was working with were small, roughly 1/4x1/2 inch or so in size with holes and tabs... With care I held to a couple of thousanths overall tolerance. Its been a few years now since I've done anything along these lines... Roger ------ Original Message ------ From: "Misc Clark" <clark.cone4@...> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent: 8/23/2013 10:36:37 AM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Etching Brass >Hi Roger...thanks for the reply! Do you have opinion about whether the >Pulsar process would be different, better, cheaper, or easier than the >waxed-paper-from-China toner-transfer method? >Clark > > >On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 12:57 PM, RogerRetro ><Roger.Blair@...>wrote: > >> ** >> >> >> Clark, >> I have used the Pulsar toner transfer quite successfully on .005 & >>.010 >> brass sheet, and yes, there is some undercutting. It will take a bit >>of >> dimensional trial and error if you need high precision. >> Regards, >> Roger >> >> >> > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and >Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
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Re[2]: [Homebrew_PCBs] Etching Brass
2013-08-24 by Roger Blair
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