Homebrew_PCBs

One other thing to think about. Any bubbles in the ink will harden into
surface imperfections, so you should smooth out any bubbles before exposing.
Really thin plastic will leave a lot of wrinkles in the surface. If you use
relatively stiff plastic with a glossy finish you can get a very smooth
finish on your board. I use a small piece of tubing to roll out the bubbles
and even out the coverage. I can get fairly nice results pretty
consistently. Like glass.
--
Phil M.

----- Original Message -----
From: "James" <bitsyboffin@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: shelving vinyl toner transfer


> On 29/06/13 14:47, Terry wrote:
>>
>> So, to clarify, are you saying to spread the ink on the board, then
>> cover with cellophane? Then while still wet, place the mask and expose?
>> .
>>
>>
>>
>
> Yes that's correct.
>
> Thin layer of the ink (paint, whatever you want to call it), cover it
> (still wet) with your cellophane (or other suitable plastic which
> works), put your artwork against the cellophane, expose for XX minutes,
> remove artwork, peel off cellophane. The unexposed areas (black in your
> artwork) will be wet and simply wipe clean, the exposed areas will be
> cured hard like epoxy.
>
> The ink is cured (dried and hardened) by UV, drying it any other way is
> virtually impossible, and just makes it really hard to remove the
> unexposed areas afterwards.
>
> The cellophane (whatever) covering serves two purposes, one it keeps the
> ink off your artwork, and two it seals the ink against air while you are
> exposing it - air inhibits curing.
>
>
>