Homebrew PCBs

I made my first DIY PCB in 1968 when I was 15. I etched with Ferric 
Chloride. The more things change, the more they stay the same :-)
--
Phil M.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "designer_craig" <cs6061@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:41 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: printer


> Phil,
> I have been a DIY board maker for years, though lately I have been lazy 
> and ordered my boards as the price as really come down.  Anyway, I have 
> always wanted to do PTH boards.
>
> I have been tracking the DIY PTH technology for some time now.  This is a 
> new one and I may have to give it a try. I had been looking at Tollen's 
> reagent (used to silver mirrors) but did not have any success. This silver 
> acetate process is a variation on the Tollens.
>
> The processes I have looked at so far are the the multi step "Palladium 
> activation" (too costly and complex) the  "black hole" (has potential but 
> messy), the "Copper Hypophosphite activation" (looks very nice but has 
> chemical sourcing issues with the DEA).  So this may be the answer.
>
> Please keep posting the results of your PTH processing.
>
> Craig
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil@..." <yahoo@...> wrote:
>>
>> I haven't started to document the process yet because I'm still
>> experimenting. I got my initial ideas and encouragement watching some
>> youtube videos bye by a guy with a channel named "pathetic-computing." 
>> You
>> can find out about conductive ink at http://jordanbunker.com/archives/41
>>
>> Because the holes are drilled and plated before etching, and I use 
>> negative
>> dry film photoresist, the masks are clear where the pads will be, so you 
>> can
>> see the holes to align the mask on either side. Before applying the film 
>> I
>> fill the holes with a mixture of drywall plaster and sugar, let it dry, 
>> and
>> sand the board lightly to remove any plaster from the surface. This 
>> provides
>> a flat surface for the resist film, and is easy to remove with water and 
>> a
>> water-pik (dental cleaner) after etching. The sugar resists the etchant 
>> in
>> case any does come into contact, which otherwise would solidify the 
>> plaster
>> making it difficult to remove.
>> --
>> Phil M.
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Mitch Davis" <mjd@...>
>> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 6:52 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: printer
>>
>>
>> > On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 3:30 AM, Phil@Yahoo <yahoo@...>
>> > wrote:
>> >>
>> >> do more than six feet. Now that I'm almost 60 (yikes!) well, you don't
>> >> want to know.
>> >
>> > Switch to metric.  You can stand a lot closer, your feet stay drier,
>> > and you can keep your vanity "score" the same :-)
>> >
>> >> I make double sided PCBs with plated-thru holes
>> >
>> > I'd be very interested to read more about that, do you have a blog
>> > page or web page showing what you do?  I'm especially interested in
>> > how you get registration between the two sides right.
>> >
>> >> a side because of the distortion caused by printing laser 
>> >> transparencies.
>> >
>> > Have you tried printing on drafting paper?  Drafting paper is
>> > transparent to UV, and I've had good success with it.  I just bought a
>> > pad at the stationery shop.  And just as for transparency, the
>> > printing should go against the board.
>> >
>> > You can read about my method with drafting paper here:
>> >
>> > 
>> > http://capnstech.blogspot.com/2011/05/playpause-making-pcbs-at-home.html
>> >
>> > All the best!
>> >
>> > Mitch.
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------------
>> >
>> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> > Photos:
>> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>