Homebrew PCBs

ST,

I like the idea of a solder paintbrush since it uses materials I have on
hand.

Thanks,

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Stefan Trethan
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 9:23 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] No HASL

Have you tried solder bearing plumbing paste? They make a paste that
contains small particles of solder similar to SMD paste, not just flux.
<http://www.hausundwerkstatt24.de/bilder/produkte/gross/8015.png>
I used that and it worked just fine, melting it with a hot air gun.

Regarding the hotplate, it does work to heat through the board from the
bottom. I often reflow SMD solder with that method, and there are industrial
hot plate ovens just like it for single sided boards. I use 240°C for leaded
solder. Not sure how much of a disadvantage the
(leadfree) plumbing paste may be with a hotplate.

I believe roller tinning (using a solder bath and transfer roller just like
a printing press) is superior. It would also not be hard to make a tinning
"iron" which holds a bunch of wadded up copper or brass strands as a
paintbrush.

ST





On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 3:25 PM, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
> ST,
>
> I failed to mention that I am using plumber's solder paste and paint 
> the board using an old tooth brush. I tried reflowing the paste with 
> my hot air gun but it didn't seem to matter. The brush put it on thin
enough.
>
> The SMD paste contains tiny specs of solder so it is not the same as 
> plumber's paste. It would be cool if there was a way to take 1/8" 
> diameter solder and grind it up into tiny particles. Then it could be 
> mixed with plumber's paste and used to coat the board. Heat the board 
> in a toaster oven and it would be coated. Then wash to remove excess flux.
>
> Rick
>


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